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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 01-05-2009, 11:23 AM
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Cobra Make, Engine: 1966 Lone Star 427SC. New Genesis 527 ci. side oiler.
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nickmate- my mags are in the bathroom for serious, reading. Can't find that issue ?

I've just heard from someone that has SS pipes and does not like them. They crack easy and the polish does not stand up and it's also hard, to polish and yellows. He said his SPF mechanic that installed his engine said not,...to go with them. Use steel and have them Jet-Hot coated. Now, he loves the shine and no color changing or polishing. How do you, and the rest of you SS pipe owners think ?

"Jet-Hot" has a silver coating that is supposed to be shinny, holds up to high temps and cost $305.

I did PM you with my email. Get back to me when you can.

Jon- yours looks great. Do you have any of the problems as I stated above ?

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 01-05-2009, 06:57 PM
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I went with ceramic on the headers ($200 locally) and they looked great for a while. After a couple thousand miles they have lost much of their shine. The sidepipes do get a golden color to them with heat, the same as chrome changes to blue. I did rebuff them after 500 miles when I took the car apart for paint, and they polish back to like new without much effort. I have not had any problems with cracking, but if I do I'll just fire the welder up again.

-Jon
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 01-07-2009, 12:17 AM
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Ok, I think I have the side pipe's settled.
Now, how about the different brands of collectors and styles

Merge (venturi) Collectors-

This is from Car Craft.

" Merge collectors are typically built on a custom, one-off basis by specialists, making them very expensive (in the neighborhood of $1,000 or more a pair). However, at the recent SEMA show, we ran across Dynatech Headers, a small, race-oriented header builder that makes the closest thing to a mass-produced merge collector on the market. Dynatech's merge collectors, available in high-temp coated mild steel or stainless steel, are still not cheap at around $600 for a pair, but at this price level, we felt it was worth a test to see what this technology is all about".

A brief note of testing-

"To keep the test simple, we ran both collector styles without mufflers to eliminate that variable, and we made no tuning changes beyond verifying that timing and carb jetting were optimized for each setup.

The results of our test were impressive. With the standard collectors, power peaked at 517 hp at 6,300 rpm and 475 lb-ft of torque at 5,000 rpm. With no other changes than slipping on the merge collectors, power increased to 528 hp at 6,300 rpm and 482 lb-ft at 5,000, a gain of 11 hp and 7 lb-ft of torque at the peaks, and more testing would likely improve on this. Finding more than 10 hp with a simple bolt-on in an engine already making nearly 1.5 hp per cubic inch is truly remarkable in our book".

Great results but, $600.

There has to be a cheaper way.




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Last edited by FUNFER2; 01-07-2009 at 12:25 AM..
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 01-07-2009, 12:35 AM
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Here's a different opinion-

"Everyone tested the merge collectors for the Engines Masters contest, THey dont work, it is a big waste of money. You might find 3 or 5 HP somewhere in the power curve, but no where near what they cost per HP/ dollar.Some times it was even worse than regular collectors.

The 4-2 one design has some good merrits though."

JOE SHERRMAN RACING ENGINES

Versus-


"Thanks for your experience, Joe!

Hooker used to offer a 4-2-1 collector some time back. I purchased a set and installed them on my Hooker Super Comps. Flowmaster had them as well, but the Hookers were a much smoother design.

A person has to be careful with the 4-2-1 collectors. The Ford firing order is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8 and you don't want successive firings going into the same merge. For example, you don't want 1-3 going into the same merge, as it can cause a 'traffic jam'. You want to pair the impulses as far apart as possible. On the passenger bank, maybe 1-2 paired and 3-4 paired.

Of course 'ideal' pairings aren't always possible with 4-2-1 collectors, but you can usually rotate the collector to make the pairings as ideal as possible. Mine are turned two different ways on my car.

I like the Hookers, but don't think they are made anymore. Nice, smooth transitions".

Hum,.....
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 01-07-2009, 02:03 AM
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Kevin,

Summit has the Hooker Headers 4 into 1 merge collectors for $175.95/pair.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
These are the collectors I and several others here in Texas used in our side pipe builds.


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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 01-07-2009, 05:31 AM
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We have been using ceramic coatings on ours. $275 a set and it seems to work well. The headers I just made are being puffed up and chromed outside with ceramic on the inside for insulation. Supposedly heat cycling the pipes before chroming is the trick to stopping them discoloring. I e-mailed some pics of Johns pipes and have a good comparison shot of the old and new mufflers. Those merge collectors are nice, I'm going to see if my small TIG torch will fit into a pipe that size.......
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 01-07-2009, 06:16 AM
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You can fab your own pipes with a merge collector design. They don't need to be as fancy looking as those aftermarket ones. I don't think the exhaust gasses are that fussy.

I've built a few sets of pipes now. Here's how I do my merge collectors:



I made a jig that lets me quickly cut out triangular sections of exhaust tube. I sit 4 of these pices back to back and weld them into the space between the 4 pipes. A quick linish and it's all smooth and neat.



I use an off the shelf collector. It's just a piece of 3 1/2" tube that's been swaged out to a square shape on the end. This slips over the 4 pipes and then I knock the corners down to a snug fit on the 4 pipes. I then tack it in place. what takes a bit of time is panel beating the metal around the 4 pipes so it's a tight neat fit before welding. The better you can do this, the better the welds will look. My original ones I MIG welded but the new ones I've TIGed. I modified a large cold chisel by rounding off the blade end. This lets me work the metal down into the valleys between the pipes without tearing the metal or making too many marks. They can then be easily linished with a flap disc on an angle grinder for a clean tidy finish.

Here's what the merge loos like when it's all welded up.



Here's some anti-social ones I made




There are probably some other side pipe progress pics in my gallery.

Cheers
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Last edited by Aussie Mike; 01-07-2009 at 06:19 AM..
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