mounting of sidepipe

priobe · #1 (**permalink**) 02-03-2009, 12:55 PM

I was thinking of changing the way my sidepipes are mounted. Currently thay are held in place with a rubber muffler strap and I am noticing that the arm off of the sidepipe is weaking from the welded area.

I was thinking of using a heavy duty spring so that it would have more of a give away when the motor torques over.

Can you show the mounting of the side pipe to your chassis

Thanks

strictlypersonl · #2 (**permalink**) 02-04-2009, 05:24 AM

"Can you poet the mounting of the side pipe to your chassis:"

My sidepipe is mounted with rubber.
The rubber is better than Flubber.
It hasn't broke yet.
But it's a good bet
That someday it's going to glub-er.

(OK - that last line is baaaad...)

Silverback51 · #3 (**permalink**) 02-04-2009, 05:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by strictlypersonl

"Can you poet the mounting of the side pipe to your chassis:"

My sidepipe is mounted with rubber.
The rubber is better than Flubber.
It hasn't broke yet.
But it's a good bet
That someday it's going to glub-er.

(OK - that last line is baaaad...)

Actually I think you did a great job.

Wayne Maybury · #4 (**permalink**) 02-04-2009, 06:18 AM

After ripping both of my muffler mounting straps off, I decided to stop the engine from moving as much by tying it down. I continue to use rubber spacers as before but with no problems now since the engine stays put when I dump the clutch.

Wayne

priobe · #5 (**permalink**) 02-04-2009, 07:34 AM

Wayne,

What did you use to hold your motor in place?

Wayne Maybury · #6 (**permalink**) 02-04-2009, 01:20 PM

I have seen lots of people use a piece of chain but I wanted something that looked trick, not something that looked like junk. I used an aluminum Radius Rod that is anodized red and two rod ends, one left hand thread, the other right hand thread. I fabricated a bracket out of 1/2" aluminum which I bolted to the front of the head on the driver's side. The top rod end bolts to that bracket and the bottom rod end bolts to the suspension mount on the frame. It looks great and has stopped the engine from moving under high load conditions. I did not notice any additional vibration in the car after doing this so there seems to be no down side to it. I got the radius rod and rod ends from Bicknell Racing Parts but I am sure you could get them elsewhere.

I may have a picture which I will try to find. If I don't have one, I will try to take a pisture when I get a few minutes. In this case a picture is definitely worth a thousand words.

Wayne

priobe · #7 (**permalink**) 02-04-2009, 02:04 PM

Thanks for the reply

I would love to see a pic.... standing by

RallySnake · #8 (**permalink**) 02-04-2009, 11:18 PM

Priobe,

I fought that problem for many years. Broke lots of rubber mounts of all types. I talked with Ron Butler about it and did what he suggested. I welded a metal strap on both sides of each motor mount, essentially making them solid. Then, I welded simple 'L' brackets on the front and rear of each sidepipe and bolted them to the frame. I drilled a bunch of holes on the bottom leg of each L bracket to let the heat dissipate before it got to the frame. This has worked well for about 10 years and lots of miles. My engine is very well balanced and I don't feel any more vibration than I did before. Oh, it is important to use a flexible mount for the transmission or you could crack the transmission case.

Paul

Wayne Maybury · #9 (**permalink**) 02-05-2009, 06:42 AM

I went in the garage last night, uncovered the Cobra (it has been sleeping for several months and I will not wake it up until May), and took a bunch of pictures. Unfortunately, it doesn't seem to matter which angle or direction I use, there is always something in the way. The coil, plug wires, rad hose, gas line, etc, etc. About the only thing you can clearly see is the top rod end. I can give you the Bicknell Racing part numbers if you are interested but that wouldn't be much help. I can send you some of the pictures but they will not be much help.

Like Paul, I also kept the flexible transmission mount.

Wayne

priobe · #10 (**permalink**) 02-05-2009, 07:01 AM

If you dont mind if you can post the part numbers. I will try and get an idea once I see how the parts look.

Thanks for you help

Hans-Olof Blom · #11 (**permalink**) 02-05-2009, 07:17 AM

Phil,
Check Era's site!

http://www.erareplicas.com/427man/en...tmod/index.htm

sllib · #12 (**permalink**) 02-05-2009, 07:35 AM

I used standard Ford motor mounts from a local parts store and they came with a bolt (heavy rivet) pre-installed. I had planned to do that anyway. I also added a heavy ground cable from the frame to the rear of my driver's side head. My sidepipes mount directly to the frame but I added rubber washers to soak up a little vibration and I used the flex tranny mounts.
Bill Stradtner

Wayne Maybury · #13 (**permalink**) 02-06-2009, 08:02 AM

priobe

The radius rod I used was part number BRP13130 which is a 1"OD, 3/4" thread, 13" long. They have a full range of radius rods, different diameters, different lengths, etc. I used BRE3121R & 3121L rod ends. Bicknell's web site is www.bicknellracingproducts.com and the closest shop they have to you is in Thomasville, NC., tel (336) 476-4448.

They have a full selection of parts for race cars, especially dirt modified. I actually purchased quite a few things from them when I was building my Cobra. I used several of their parts to make a trick front anti-sway bar, picture attached.

Wayne

Wayne Maybury · #14 (**permalink**) 02-11-2009, 09:19 AM

I actually found an older picture which was taken before hoses, wiring etc were installed. I hope this helps.

Wayne

Wayne Maybury · #15 (**permalink**) 02-11-2009, 09:23 AM

I'm going to try to upload the picture again.

Wayne