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The car is hard to get in and out of on a good day...I just stand up on the seat and step over the door to get out and step over the door and stand on the seat to get in. My wife does the same. NEVER been burned plus it's easier. I've seen the scars on too many people. If the upolstery wears out it can always be re-covered. Not so easy with your legs.
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That's the only way to mount and dismount the snake;)! |
Tee Hee, look out for the snake bite!
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Usually I have the passengers wait in the car while I go around, say 'WATCH THE PIPES', and help them over the pipes.
Typically, they can't figure out how to operate the door handle, so having them jump out too quickly hasn't really been an issue. If they CAN work the door handle, they have been in the car before and should remember the pipe issue.... And here's a tip for everyone: Wear jeans when you drive the car. Not only do you not look like a shorts-wearing dork, but you can brush against the side pipes without an ER visit. |
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The pipes on our cars do not get as hot. They can give you a snake Hickey but not much of a bite. They have an inner and outer shell with a aluminized insulation between the layers. The muffler is replaceable as well.
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I was able to buy my Cobra because the original owner's wife got bit the first time out and she never got in the car again.
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Has anyone tried a welder's blanket over the pipes when getting out? Just bought a BDR and my daughter would love to ride in it but not willing to risk injuring her. Other thoughts? Sean
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Yes sir... I've been using welder's blankets for years at the car shows. They're light and compact. You usually can find a size that you can cut in half lengthwise with scissors, allowing you to cover both pipes with one blanket.
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We just retro fitted our new insolation in to a set of pipes for a CR, equipped with a 351 W, and a FFR with a 5.4 module with a supercharger. The CR before the retrofit was 315 degrees at the elbow, and 210 at the body of the muffler. After the refit 310 degrees at the elbow and 125 degrees at the body after a 20 minutes hard run. The FFR ran slightly cooler. Most of the heat in the body of the muffler was do the thermal crawl or induction from the elbow. we are working on a funalic isolator to brake the heat path. I am talking to a manufacturer to produce the mufflers for me, but for the time being We have to hand make them all. If you don't wont to get burned this is the best solution so far , short of the vacuum tube muffler we tried a few years ago.
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I have ceramic coating on my pipes, and I have cromed side shields. The pipes are warm, but can be touched without getting burnt.
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I had one summer where I burned the livin' crap out of my left ankle two or three times. Even had to get prescription burn cream, it was so bad. Haven't done it since, but I always put the welding blanket over the pipes for my passengers. I have to put the belts on and off them, so it's really not a big deal to reach behind the seat and pull the small blanket out.
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Just for info guys, Bill Emerson at Emerson Motorsports has come up with an insulation he puts in his exhaust that works great. I have it my car and you can drive and touch the pipe for about a second or more without a burn. They are still hot buy not even close to before and without. By the way, my burn scar is almost gone now. Only 3 mos. now.
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To protect my passengers, I wrapped the muffler portion of the side pipes with Fiberglass Header Wrap. from any Racing Company. I got mine from Amazon. After wrapping the pipes I bolted a set of Covers from Finishline over the wrapped pipes with left and right coverage. Even though they get warm, they are never too hot to burn body parts. I always warn my passengers about the Hot Pipes anyway.
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