Would anyone recommend an Oil Cooler Bypass Valve

[RedBarchetta]

Originally Posted by Pete Munroe

One downside to the CANTON is its size...6 inches high and 3.25 square...the MOCAL unit, and the EARLS are more compact.

Dean, aka ""RED-BARCHETTA" has a CANTON unit on his 351/392 stroker, maybe he or some of the other guys will comment.

Mine is mounted similarly to Jim's. We both fashioned a plate to mount ours on. He mounts his closer to the fans and mine is more offset toward the motor. Niether one of us centered it on the cross-member, as you will discover with the mounting bracket that this makes it difficult to do so. This isn't the best pic (Jim's is more of a close-up), but at least you get a feel for how it looks in the whole engine bay. I still haven't come up with a cleaner way to route the plumbing from the remote oil filter exit back to the intake on the thermostat. Have considered some hard line but the bends would be too tight. Maybe Jim can share with us an underneath shot...his looks cleaner.



Overall I'm pleased with this unit.

-Dean

[Blas]

IF you want a bypass valve that is manually controlled, check this site out. He make some great stuff...
www.beaumontmetalworks.com/index-perf-ap.html

[DougD]

I investigated installing a Mocal but decided against it. They come in -10 and -12 sizes and are fairly small compared to the other brands I've seen. Even so, I couldn't come up with a way to mount it that I could live with.

The directions that come with the Mocal indicate that it never really closes completely like you would think - it uses the viscosity differences between warm and cold oil to redirect the oil back to the engine. As the oil in the line to the cooler slowly warms, more of it begins to flow through the cooler.

Pegasus has them for $110 if anyone is interested.

I've decided to warm the engine fully before driving any distance, and use some good ol' duct tape on the cooler if I decide to drive in cooler weather. I'm pretty sure the 427 will run warm regardless of the outside temp as long as it's not COLD out.

[twobjshelbys]

Originally Posted by RedBarchetta

Mine is mounted similarly to Jim's. We both fashioned a plate to mount ours on. He mounts his closer to the fans and mine is more offset toward the motor. Niether one of us centered it on the cross-member, as you will discover with the mounting bracket that this makes it difficult to do so. This isn't the best pic (Jim's is more of a close-up), but at least you get a feel for how it looks in the whole engine bay. I still haven't come up with a cleaner way to route the plumbing from the remote oil filter exit back to the intake on the thermostat. Have considered some hard line but the bends would be too tight. Maybe Jim can share with us an underneath shot...his looks cleaner.



Overall I'm pleased with this unit.

-Dean

I think I need one of these as my oil temp rarely gets off the bottom peg and when it does only goes up to about 60*C. Water temp is about 80-85*C. However, I'll also need to find the braided hoses in the right lengths. What lengths/sources did you use?

[STL Mark]

Maybe this is a silly question - but doesn't the reading of the oil temperature depend on where the sensor is located? Mine is located in the pan [I think) so wouldn't the actual temperature of the oil that is circulating in the engine at that moment differ quite a bit? How much of a difference could I expect?

Also - I have a 7 quart pan.

[RedBarchetta]

Originally Posted by twobjshelbys

What lengths/sources did you use?

Just go to Summit Racing (or Jegs) and buy the 6ft pre-cut lengths. Then measure three times and cut once. Use a rubber hose (any diameter) for mocking it up. I inherited -10AN and at one point almost jumped to -12AN. -12 is a LOT larger. I also used all Aeroquip fittings...they cost a little more but I wanted the best.

-Dean