Let's talk Xenon

[BDR561]

I have been doing a little research into upgrading to a HID's (Xenon) and adding Tri Bar P700's on my Backdraft. Upon doing so I have encountered "many" different kits and manufacturers available and have been left with a couple of questions I thought I would throw out to those of you who already have been down this road.

In order to preserve Hi-Lo I know that I need a dual beam setup, however I'm finding out that there are two very different varients.

1. A true dual beam bulb with 4 ballasts

2. A single beam bulb with two ballasts and a magnetic base that moves the bulb into a Hi-Lo position when you hit the Hi beams

What setup is everone else using? Any recommendations?

I know Jay (Vintage), Reg/Frank (Backdraft) and Gary (KC) all have kits available but now I'm wondering what their kits are too??

Any insight would be welcome.

[PANAVIA]

BDR561 ,

Do you have any information on how much amperage these will draw at operating voltage >?

--you may want to consider a sub-harness for the new lamps and having that on a sepp ckt breaker and activated by a relay.

also mechanical depth may be an issue depending on the kit used. - here is a H4 conversion bulb kit-- i bumped into on flea-bay.



--Steve

[BDR561]

Most of the kits I have seen draw less than a Halogen bulb (so they claim). Does the kit you purchase have both Hi and Low beams? Do you get any flicker in the lights?

[Cashburn]

We have used the style that moves (has 2 ballasts) with no problems.

[BDR561]

Panavia,

Who's the manufacturer of your kit?



These are the specs that I found to be common on most of the kits I have seen...

Xenon Bulb Specification:

Power consumption: 35watts
Luminous flux: 2200~3200
Service Life: Up To 3000hrs
Mercury purity is 99.999999%
Waterproof and vibration resistant
Quartz glass of silicon dioxide for headlight protection
Xenon Ballast Specification:

Power consumption: 35watts
Input Voltage: 9V-16V
Working current (Steady state): 3.5 A norm
Working temperature: -40 ~ +105
Frequency: 400 Hz
Waterproof and vibration resistant

[BDR561]

Jay,

Are yours (or anyones) DOT approved?

[Cashburn]

Originally Posted by BDR561

Jay,

Are yours (or anyones) DOT approved?

The housing we use has DOT on them.

[RallySnake]

I have spent a LOT of time working on my headlights. For the last few years I have run HID bulbs in a H4 adapters in various 7" round headlights. If the headlight has a mask in front of the bulb, like the Hellas does, it's not too bad. If it doesn't, it's really bad!

By "bad", I mean it puts out a lot of glare. This glare is uncontrolled light that REALLY bothers other drivers. There are lots of pending laws about this problem in many states. Basically, a headlight reflector designed to work with a filament bulb cannot control the globe shaped light source of the HID bulb. There is a lot more information about this on www.HIDPlanet.com.

I am planning to run the Total Recall Rally on June 27th in my Cobra. I also plan to run the STELLAR LUMINESCENCE RALLY in November which runs from Santa Barbara to Las Vegas. These are all night events and good lights are absolutely critical. I bought a set of HID projector lights from a Nissan Morano on eBay for about $60. I bought a set of 7" round headlights with clear lenses on the Internet for $25. I used a saber saw to cut a 2 3/4" diameter hole in the back of the headlights and used JB Weld to attach the projectors into the back of them. This made the assembly 7.5 inches deep. So, I had to cut off the back of the headlight buckets and welded steel ducting (from Home Depot) to the back to make longer buckets. My HID ballasts are mounted in steel boxes (for weather protection) on top of the frame, under the fenders (the HID power wire is only about 14 inches long).

The light this setup produces is GLORIOUS. You get a very wide brilliant white beam with a distinct cutoff which I set to be at curb level, 150 feet in front of the car. When I activate the high beams, a little shutter in the projector snaps down (the reflector reverses it) and raises the cutoff about 10 feet (at the 150 foot mark). It took me about 6 months to collect all the parts and figure out how to put it together. I wish I had taken pictures of the process. I did take a few pictures of the finished light in the car. There is a lightweight clear plastic bubble in front of the headlight for protection from rocks.

I also purchased a set of 8" HID Driving lights from Kragen Auto Parts. I wired these to come on with the high beams. The headlights draw 35 watts and the driving lights draw 35 watts. My old halogen headlights were 100 watt high beams and 80 watt low beams. My old halogen driving lights were 140 watts each. So, the overall current draw is much lower and the light output is much higher. Sometimes my old setup would make the fan belt squeal because of the alternator drag. Sometimes, they would actually run the battery down. I bought a 108 amp alternator to fix that.

So, putting HID bulbs in a standard 7” round headlight will work, but it doesn’t work well and it could get you in trouble. Might as well go all the way. I will post pictures in my gallery. You are all welcome to join us on the ITN Rallies. There is more information here: http://carzero.freeservers.com/

RallySnake

[Cashburn]

Rallysnake,
You can buy a shielded HID bulb.

[RallySnake]

Cashburn,

Yes, and you can paint a shield on the bulb, and you can buy an adapter with a shield. I have tried these things and they are no substitute for a correctly engineered projector assembly. If you would like to buy any of these half-a$$ed solutions, I will be happy to let you have mine very cheaply!

It comes down to handling the stray light. I used to get flashed by oncoming cars all the time. One of the strangest things happened while driving at night in the rain. You, of course, have to maintain 60 mph or better to keep the rain off your head while driving topless. Looking up above the car, the headlights produced a flat plane of light that was exactly vertical. Through the wall of light, you could see the raindrops coming right at your face, but they disappeared and never hit you. It was very cool and it clearly demonstrated how much light was being wasted.