Make my Jag rear stronger? Help-Ideas-Advice - Page 2

RICK LAKE · #21 (**permalink**) 06-19-2009, 03:14 AM

Sinjin That is a nice setup to control the lower arm location and give free movement up and down. Is there anything controlling the top of the hub? You have stopped the front to back movement but not the twisting when the hub is trying to turn at the top of the tire. We are trying to install a 4 link suspension on an IRS rearend. The 2 problem everyone has is room for the big tires and what frame you have. The round tube chassic seam to have more room than square tube. Running 335 tires in the back gives very little room for the Watt's. I have modified an old Contempary hub to work in an ERA. The problem is not breaking the shoulder bolt that holes the pivot in place. Rick L.

67JET · #22 (**permalink**) 06-19-2009, 04:06 AM

Sinjin- Thanks for the pic's. I've decided to try to go for it all - watts on the bottom like yours and watts on the top with a home made bracket like the one Decooney made for the shock set-up. I guess i need to get into the design phase for these parts on my car. It's great how we can ask something on here and everyone chimes in with all this great information. I'm not done yet so keep all the good info comming.
Mickmate- Are those the hubs that you got from George? Now if we get this set-up with the double watts going, where's the next weak link? Nevermind i don't want to know - then i will want to fix that too.

mickmate · #23 (**permalink**) 06-19-2009, 05:18 AM

Hey Jet that is the George Petrus set up. Rick if it's breaking the shoulder bolts something is in the wrong place and binding. Not only are we limited by room on rear tire size, the rear swaybar is usually right there too. I've actually started drawing it up in CAD so I can try the suspension movement in the computer and see if I've got the positions and rod lengths correct.

67JET · #24 (**permalink**) 06-20-2009, 11:36 AM

I talked with George and his price on the lower arm is 700.
I talked with Bill Connelly and his price on the watts linkage is 1800 for everything except the lower arm and he does not recomend using it. (the lower arm that is) My wife will kill me if i sprng 2500 on the rear end and 3850 on a Fast Cars front end- get it back together and she can't see any difference. I've got to do some creative thinking and some fabricating and maybe alittle white lie from time to time. I can see this is going to be complicated -- and --- FUN!!!

Tom Wells · #25 (**permalink**) 06-20-2009, 06:03 PM

67JET,

Dunno if it's the same guy so I'd just suggest you do a search here on Club Cobra for the name "Bill Connelly" before you turn loose any funds.

If it's someone else, then this doesn't apply.

Caveat emptor....

Tom

RICK LAKE · #26 (**permalink**) 06-21-2009, 04:14 AM

mickmate The are just standard shoulder cheap bolts. They snap at the end of the threads where the machine leaves a thin area. I only use my watts for 1/4 mile games. In autocross and roadracing the bars stay off the car. It makes the rearend looser but allows it to drift with my way of driving better. I don't have all the wheel and tire hop that some of the other guys are having. I leave at a lower rpm, slip the clutch a little and not get alot of tire spin or hopping. I like the power to the ground, not up in smoke. I don't have any binding of the watt's, it's just cheap bolts. You can get shoulder bolts that work perfect at Homedepot's or Lowes. I carry a couple of spare sets, just in case. They break from the shock of the drivetrain and wheel hop in 1/4 mile. The car is getting better with handling, however the driver is way past prime and having large b@!!s to push the car to the edge.

Too much money invested in it to for silly play also.

Rick L

mickmate · #27 (**permalink**) 08-05-2010, 02:07 PM

How are you making out with this? Check over here
Contemporary Cobra Watts Linkage

Ralphy · #28 (**permalink**) 08-12-2010, 11:40 PM

Deleted Post

Danielg · #29 (**permalink**) 08-17-2010, 08:47 PM

Mickmate,
Hi, thanks for you direction for lower control arms, the one george petrus makes looks like it. However I cannot find him. His emails come back, fax doesnt work, and on and off his number doesnt ring, and when it does I leave detailed messages and no return calls, maybe on vacation?
I have seen over the years other steel tubular control arms with welded X brace and four adjustable heim joint to make fine adjustments.
I cant seem to find anything. I really want to build this car with some strong rear suspension for hard driving. This car is the second gen with factory watts linkage and coil over front. I have also decided to definatly sell the torsion bar frame, suspension, body, windshield etc. Hopefully will finance some cool parts for my car.
Any help would be great.
You seem to be the go to guy
Thanks
Daniel

67JET · #30 (**permalink**) 08-18-2010, 04:31 AM

Hi Danielg, contact details for George I have are George Petrus
E-mail Address(es):
petrusg@ix.netcom.com
Business Information:
Company: AMP
Address:
20417 Earl Street
Torrance California CA 90503
Phone: 310-370-4075
Hope this helps

cobrarkc · #31 (**permalink**) 08-18-2010, 06:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Danielg

Mickmate,
Hi, thanks for you direction for lower control arms, the one george petrus makes looks like it. However I cannot find him. His emails come back, fax doesnt work, and on and off his number doesnt ring, and when it does I leave detailed messages and no return calls, maybe on vacation?

Daniel
Just keep trying he will eventually call you back. He must go on vacation alot. I had the same trouble a few months ago. He make alot of parts for Shelby he told me that keeps him busy.

mickmate · #32 (**permalink**) 08-18-2010, 09:21 AM

George (and I) are like alot of the small companies making limited production parts he is a one man operation and doesn't have someone on the phone full time. Leave him a message and he'll get back to you or try his e-mail.