my bg was doing the same thing, wasn't when i first got it, then i got to playing with it and it would stall on braking and cornering, now it is pretty much gone although i don't know how i fixed it since i usually would try a couple things at once.
if you have the 4 corner idle setup, open up the secondaries and primaries same amount, uncovering a small portion of the t slot, this way when you brake and you uncover the front bleeds you still run on the secondary idle circuit, kind of a carb in reverse. it seems when mine was dying, the afr would go lean so this might help you. definitely recommend a wide band setup if you can fit it in, around $200 and money well spent. like the
oil pressure at idle thing, if you get it set up to run in the fashion you prefer, you will probably have to let the idle fall where it may. you can effect idle with vacuum advance also, depending wether you hook up to manifold vacuum or port vacuum. i have to run without on the street car or the idle is up around 1500rpm, for long road trips i hook it up and gain about 2 mpg i believe. right now the crate motor idles at 1000 and pretty much withstands any braking, little bobbly on turns though, but i think this can be taken out with higher idle. anyway, don't get fixated on a certain idle rpm. i've read one guy prefers the fuel level to be below the top emulsion tube air bleed so you might look at this. when you make adjustments to the holley based carbs it seems they are touchier then they look.
i would set both butterflies as far open as you dare at the recommended 20-40 thou showing on the t slot, or a square, hook everything up, fire it up and get it hot and see where idle is at,you can always close the butterflies at this point, just don't go any further open, or you might have to hook up the vacuum to get the idle where you want it. set the engine to a low idle around 1000, easier to set mixture here, once you get it warmed up set your idle mixture screws all the same to get the best idle, then put the butterflies back to where they belong, adjusting both, and you should be set on your idle and transition circuit. the only thing to adjust after this is the fuel level and main jets. adjust the fuel level one flat at a time on the adjustment nut. like the man above said you're just guessing without an o2 sensor, or have a pretty good ear/feel for how an engine should run.
imo, the carb is not too big, hook up a vacuum gauge and see what the vacuum is at wot, don't know what the recommendation is, but less is better. usually little over 2 cfm per ci. can be made to work.
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