Not starting...

psychoSEAL · #1 (**permalink**) 08-09-2009, 10:11 AM

I am scratching my head on this one. Get into the car turn the key and hear clicking sound. Had alternator bench tested, reads 100amps. Found a bad conection on alternator, replaced connector. Charged battery, still nothing but clicking. Had battery load tested at Advance, shows replace battery 0 CCAs. Took it to another Advance to check, same reading after trying to put a charge on it at the store. Nothing. Bought a new Optima (red top) 800 CCA battery. Replaced battery cable ends and hooked up the new battery. Turned right over with the turn of the key. That was 2 days ago. Get into the car this morning. Nothing, no clicking, no nothing. Took battery to Advance shows battery needs to be charged. What else could be the problem. I haven't changed any thing or has another component dragging the battery down. Thanks for your input!

strictlypersonl · #2 (**permalink**) 08-09-2009, 12:37 PM

You have a drain somewhere in the system. I would (with the key off):

Disconnect the battery ground connection.

Remove all your fuses.

Put a low-range (~10A) ammeter or a test light in-line between the battery and the disconnected cable. (plus side to the battery, minus to the ground).

Replace the fuses, one at a time, until the ammeter shows a discharge or the test light lights.

Once you've located the circuit (or circuits) that are serviced by that fuse, start tracing each possible draw.

If the ammeter shows a draw with all the fuses out, you'll have to start tracing the unfused circuits. There's also the possibility of a draw from the alternator, so disconnect all those connections to check for a draw.

Archrms · #3 (**permalink**) 08-10-2009, 06:39 AM

Pull your starter and have it bench tested. I installed a new starter in my car, and it went bad with an internal short less than two weeks later with the same symptoms you described. I checked everything you did, battery, alternator, wiring, etc., and pulled the new starter as a last resort, just to eliminate another potential source of the problem. It kept blowing fuses on their test bench, so they replaced it for free.

psychoSEAL · #4 (**permalink**) 08-12-2009, 07:24 PM

According to test light there is a definite draw on battery from something. Pulled fuses one by one using test light on battery. No problems there. Disconnected alternator power still no issues. Besides the voltage regulator and starter I have nothing else that could be blamed for the constant draw on the battery. What else could I be missing?

Blas · #5 (**permalink**) 08-12-2009, 07:44 PM

There have been some problems with Optima batteries lately....
Do you have anything not running thru the fuse panel? Fuel Pump? Ignition box?
If you pulled your fuses one at a time, try pulling them all at once and see what you get...
Is the back of your ignition switch hot?

psychoSEAL · #6 (**permalink**) 08-15-2009, 02:43 PM

Guys, With my direct communication with Blas I think I am narrowing this puzzle down. 1) Alternator bench tested numerous times. Altrernator Good. (2)New Battery(Optima Red Top) (3) Used test light when pulling out each fuse. Showed no problems ruling out the battery draw at that point. (4) Hooked the alternator back up. This time using a multimeter on the battery. It showed 17.5 - 17.9 volts at engine idle. Is the Voltage Regulator at fault for the battery discharging? I don't have anything except the fan and a couple of other wires that I am not sure of wired to the hot side of the starter solenoid. Nothing different. What next? Thanks!!!!

strictlypersonl · #7 (**permalink**) 08-15-2009, 03:48 PM

The voltage regulator should keep the peak voltage below about 14.8V. More than 17V will cook the battery pretty quickly, but I doubt that's already happened. (I hope.) Charge the battery again and disconnect the plug at the voltage regulator. See whether the battery holds a charge overnight. If it does, check the wiring from the regulator to the alternator. If that's OK, replace the regulator.

!!! If you have a dash charge-warning light, check that the wire from the regulator to it is not grounding out somewhere. !!!

And put a fuse in the regulator power circuit, making sure that the power goes off with the key.

psychoSEAL · #8 (**permalink**) 08-15-2009, 07:02 PM

Took another reading with the meter on the battery with everything unhooked, it read that the battery was charged at 12.4 volts. That's the reason I fried the most recent Optima battery. It didn't take long for it to fry.

Blas · #9 (**permalink**) 08-16-2009, 10:30 AM

Actually, I think it's been another great team effort to resolve your problem...
There is a vast amount of personal experience here on CC. We all learned by doing...keep us posted on the final outcome.
Blas

psychoSEAL · #10 (**permalink**) 08-16-2009, 06:09 PM

Guys, I picked up a new Voltage Regulator from NAPA this morning. Fired the car up and noticed that the warning light flickered a little. I then tightened the belt just a little and the light did not appear again. Took a reading while the car was at idle meter showed around 14.2 volts. With everything off the battery showed 12.2 volts. Looks like everything on the home front is quiet for now. I want to send out a BIG thank you to all that responded and especially to Blas for taking the time to speak with me over the phone in finding the answer to my wiring issue. THANKS!