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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 07-25-2008, 07:21 AM
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Originally Posted by mk2gt40 View Post
The accusump that Rick uses combined with the reusable filter used by redcsx1 seems to be the way to go.I am also interested to know who makes that filter and if it would work on an existing remote filter housing?
Ross
Ross, It fits fine on the remote mount.

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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 07-26-2008, 02:18 PM
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Seems I have created a bit of controversy by including the oil filter evaluations done by Mr. Knize. Of course, he bought and disassembled all the major filters and researched the history of them thoroughly. I doubt anybody on this forum has done that kind of exhaustive evaluation.

So, you can argue with the fact that they are his "opinions" but you can't argue with what he found objectively. Filter media attached with glued paperboard vs. metal, string binding the media so the glue can dry, all the other parts that make up the invisible insides of a filter. He exposed it for us to evaluate. My bet is most folks didn't read the whole eval. I learned some things I didn't know, among which was that a small group of manufacturers makes most all the filters. For instance, I didn't know that the Motorcraft FL-1 is made by Purolator and Fram's aren't made by Fram, they're made by Honeywell. I've been using the Wix 51515 on my car since I got it and it looks like a good filter from his eval.

I was concerned that most all filters by-pass filtration on startup of the engine when you need filtration the most (draindown, pickup from bottom of the sump where particles settle). Especially when you are using 20W50 oil. I was using Amsoil 10W40 in my 390 FE and it always made those dry noises at startup so now I am going to put a preoiler on my newly built 428 to prevent this. (Thanks Rick, I appreciate your persistence)

I think I will also look into the SS screen, reusable oil filters as well. They cost a bunch, but flow better and don't by-pass filtration at startup. Aircraft engine mfgs have been using an oil screen, not a filter, for years with the ability to check the screen for contaminants like metal particles to determe if you have something bad happening inside; so I would assume these reusables for cars have that additional benefit. Flow rates of the reusables are equivalent to the paper racing filters but still filter better.

I think the filter evaluation that Knize did was very informative, even though others here think the keyword "opinion" is a reason to dismiss it all. I sure as he11 wouldn't want to buy all those filters, cut them up, and write such an exhaustive article on that subject. I'm glad he did it and I enjoyed reading it. I learned a lot.

Paul
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 07-26-2008, 05:29 PM
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Ford techs: and I've surveyed 5 of them; (used to call them mechanics in my yute) tell me if it is a fairly stock SBF use FL1's or FL1 A's. If high hp 275 or above use FL1HP's. Ford didn't write the specs to spend warranty money due to filter failure or oiling failure due to filters.
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 07-26-2008, 06:05 PM
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Default Oil filter

I have a Systems 1 filter which has the stainless steel screen 45microns screen, and the ball bearing relief in the base, used it recently while dynoing the engine, has a small pressure loss, as we measure pressure pre filter and engine block. All engines make metal to varying degrees especially race engines, and I was really surprised at the small amount of metal and a wee bit of lint, probably from me as I took the alloy pan off to modify!

I thought the 30 micron would be better but I am told by people who have what I consider far more experience than I the 45 screen does a great job, when I see a lineup of Formula 5000, and other engines most with System 1, the balance is to have flow and remove the harmful contaminants.

With cold start up we are going to heat the oil tank and use a water (thermosyphon heater in the water system) so I cant emagine the engine running on bypass for any amount of time, and oil pressure equalises and it will have pressure on the back side of the relief valve (ball bearing/seat) for cold oil start after the initial cold burst of oil and the system stabilizes I cant see a problem there.

This is a bit like the BS oil tests done with friction and loading bearing surfaces, some are better than others, and people saying their oil or filter choice is better, most dont know I deal with the most successful race service provider here in NZ, and have access now to their facilities and they only advocate what has worked for them, and if that is less tear downs, winning the championship last year. They seem to buy parts and oil that are designed for high performance and racing eg buy a diagnostic screen filter that has more flow than an over the counter paper filter, because its more important to have flow than maximum filtering, the same for oil they use mineral 20-50 in the GM Formula 5000 engines and Race synthetic in most other smaller etc engines, what that tells me is most products will work well!

We used Chevron Delo 400 on the dyno and reading all the oil bible and others opinions, this oil is designed to run in petrol as well, so I will take with a grain of salt that it is no good in petrol as some say. I will use this for about 2000miles and then go onto either Scheaffer semi-synthetic or Castrol mineral oil, maybe after 4000miles I could use Motul but I think with our type of V8 engine technology a mineral or semi-synthetic, and one the manufactures states has taken into account flat tappet camshafts. Also I have used the Oberg screen type filters, which appear to be good, but I think System 1 is a good product for my application. High mileage road cars are different but I reckon System 1 would do a good job there as well, just go down to the finer filter element.
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Last edited by Ant; 07-26-2008 at 06:13 PM..
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 07-26-2008, 08:50 PM
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I think sometimes we worry too much about our cars.

Most of us (including the "FE" guys) are running motors in our Cobras that were intended for daily-driven passenger cars using a "nothing special" oil filter.

I believe any name brand filter is probably good enough.
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  #46 (permalink)  
Old 07-26-2008, 09:48 PM
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I've used the Wix racing filters for years.

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  #47 (permalink)  
Old 07-27-2008, 03:51 AM
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Default 40-50 for dirt track guys

Ant I agree with you on some of the things. The guys around here that dirt track run 40-50 microns in Omni filters. Some of the older guys are running Wix and have no problem with them either. It's all how much is in the pocket. My only concern is airation of the oil. Depending on which oil wieght, sythesic like Mobil1, or Amsoil, and how bad the track is for dirt in the air for how small you can go with micron range and have a small pressure lose. I run a small fram 3780or 3870 on my car. It's a peanut. So far it's takes the 135 psi for cold starts and seams to have good flow for racing. When I go dry sump, I will go with a 1 1/2 oil filter for this motor. I do stay away from any dual filters that have paper and cloth in them, Like some of the Frams and STP's. I will say that the oil from these filters seamed to stay cleaner longer. I did think there is a pressure drop with them. I have always run HV or HVHP oil pumps with a min of 60 psi at 2,000 rpms on any of my motors. I also have started to add accusumps to all my trucks for peroilers. What are the jet boat racers using down there? Rick L.
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  #48 (permalink)  
Old 07-27-2008, 11:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Traveller View Post
I think sometimes we worry too much about our cars.

Most of us (including the "FE" guys) are running motors in our Cobras that were intended for daily-driven passenger cars using a "nothing special" oil filter.

I believe any name brand filter is probably good enough.
When one considers the amount of time, cost of upgrades and potential cost of repair due to internal lubrication problems, I have a hard time accepting your point.
From a personal point of view I have no problem incurring the minor extra cost and work needed to protect what I have invested in my engine. Plus I want to run it, not fix it, because a cheap filter failed.
I doubt that "probably good enough" is an answer that will gain much acceptance.
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  #49 (permalink)  
Old 07-27-2008, 12:45 PM
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Default Oil Filter

Traveller, with a daily street driven engine I am sure thats no problem, my engine 15 years ago would have cost close to $75k with the internals etc, and like a lot of FE owners who have gone with very expensive internals delivering over 500bhp to 700bhp with some big strokers it makes sense to get good oil flow and filtering in order to compliment the rest of the engine.

Rick, I had a 1-1/2 HP6 adapter but went for the System 1 as it came with its 45 micron element, I phoned System1 and they said the 45 will take out the harmful particles. I agree any good race filter or good flowing filter will do, with filters people have as many differing ideas as with oil products so its all good.
I looked at the Omni filter and they are no doubt a good product along with Wix, Fram etc and the full flowing Ford HP recommended filter, like Rosco and yourself use. Regarding Jet boats I guess they use the standard filter on the block, or a remote filter.
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  #50 (permalink)  
Old 07-27-2008, 05:20 PM
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I remember when Volkswagens didn't even have an oil filter (or for that matter a gas gauge) and they pretty much ran forever.

Bob
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  #51 (permalink)  
Old 07-27-2008, 05:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lineslinger View Post
When one considers the amount of time, cost of upgrades and potential cost of repair due to internal lubrication problems, I have a hard time accepting your point.
From a personal point of view I have no problem incurring the minor extra cost and work needed to protect what I have invested in my engine. Plus I want to run it, not fix it, because a cheap filter failed.
I doubt that "probably good enough" is an answer that will gain much acceptance.
Did I say "Cheap"?

And I'm not seeking acceptance, just sharing my opinion.

Last edited by Traveller; 07-27-2008 at 05:50 PM..
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  #52 (permalink)  
Old 07-28-2008, 11:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Traveller View Post
Did I say "Cheap"?

And I'm not seeking acceptance, just sharing my opinion.
As am I.

I did not mean to imply you were advocating the use of cheap filters, could care less about your acceptance issues, just taking issue with your opinion.

If any owner has 12 - 20K in an engine I would suggest the "name brand" filter may not be the first choice.
The "we worry too much about these engines" opinion expressed I do not buy in to.
Your view point of "any name brand filter is probably good enough" is an opinion I do not to agree with.
Thus my response to your opinion.
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  #53 (permalink)  
Old 07-28-2008, 12:03 PM
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I use one of those toilet paper filters......
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  #54 (permalink)  
Old 07-28-2008, 12:06 PM
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I use one of those toilet paper filters......
I hear they were pretty "crappy".

Linslinger, give it a rest.
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  #55 (permalink)  
Old 07-28-2008, 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Traveller View Post
I hear they were pretty "crappy".

Linslinger, give it a rest.
Be glad to, you should try it as well.

The oil filter medium for the late 50 and early 60 Austin Healeys looked almost like a half used roll of TP. It was tightly wadded/layered cotton an internal wire frame to hold it together.
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  #56 (permalink)  
Old 07-28-2008, 12:30 PM
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There's a little known feature here called the "ignore list". I rarely use it but in your case linslinger I'm making an exception.

Welcome to it
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  #57 (permalink)  
Old 07-28-2008, 12:47 PM
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Quote:
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The oil filter medium for the late 50 and early 60 Austin Healeys looked almost like a half used roll of TP. It was tightly wadded/layered cotton an internal wire frame to hold it together.
I remember those.... or how about the screen filters?

Recently I have questioned my use of TP oil filters. According to my daily a$$ test the TP is not 100% effective in removing all the $hit so I think I am going to start using TP and butt wipes since they do well for me in the morning. I was thinking of installing a Bidet since I know those work well but could not figure out how to plumb it.
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  #58 (permalink)  
Old 07-28-2008, 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Traveller View Post
There's a little known feature here called the "ignore list". I rarely use it but in your case linslinger I'm making an exception.

Welcome to it
Great idea and good call.
Better for all that way and I thank you for the welcome.

Last edited by lineslinger; 07-28-2008 at 01:14 PM..
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  #59 (permalink)  
Old 07-28-2008, 01:02 PM
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Originally Posted by rdorman View Post
I remember those.... or how about the screen filters?

Recently I have questioned my use of TP oil filters. According to my daily a$$ test the TP is not 100% effective in removing all the $hit so I think I am going to start using TP and butt wipes since they do well for me in the morning. I was thinking of installing a Bidet since I know those work well but could not figure out how to plumb it.
We use the baby wipes at our hunting camps and fishing outposts where a Sams Store size supply sits in our makeshift outhouse.
Good Stuff.
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  #60 (permalink)  
Old 07-28-2008, 03:45 PM
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I use the Moroso racing filters...and nothing butt
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