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Kirkham Motorsports

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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 04-13-2019, 02:26 PM
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Default Hydraulic clutch lines

Can anyone help me figure out how to connect my hydraulic clutch lines? Per the parts list I have a rubber hose and a steel line. I donít see any recommendations on how to run it. I also might have to put a notch on the underside of my body to get at the fitting. A banjo fitting might help?
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Old 04-14-2019, 05:38 AM
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Default Clutch

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Originally Posted by Ct_Cobra View Post
Can anyone help me figure out how to connect my hydraulic clutch lines? Per the parts list I have a rubber hose and a steel line. I donít see any recommendations on how to run it. I also might have to put a notch on the underside of my body to get at the fitting. A banjo fitting might help?
What master cylinder and slave are you using? Which pedal box...A&Cís??
Jon
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Old 04-14-2019, 07:02 AM
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Default Clutch lines

I used everything they recommended on their parts list, the slave cylinder is from an 86 to 94 Nissan pick up the master cylinder is from a 78 Honda Accord the hydraulic lines are both from NAPA and the pedal assembly is out of the mustang II.

Thanks for your help.
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Old 04-14-2019, 07:17 AM
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Default Pedalís

It might be easier to measure hoe long of a hose you need and take the Mc & slave to a shop that can make a hose with the correct fittings that fit....
You might also go to a speed shop and they can find or order the correct fittings
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Old 04-14-2019, 07:18 AM
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My lines are clamped to the frame, by bolts. I believe the bolts have a drill bit on the tip and they self tap.

My lines originally ran too close to the headers. When I cut the slip fit joints off and welded plates on, the plates were about an inch closer to the clutch hydraulic line. It boiled the fluid, and I lost my clutch on the first drive. I cannot remember how close they were for sure, but it seems like 2 or 3 inches apart. I would try to keep all liquid lines as far away from the exhaust as easily possible, but no closer than 6 inches, no matter how hard it is to do.

PS
Think about holding you hand at 6 inches from a hot header. I'm not certain 6" is far enough. A foot is much better. At 6" you might want a heat shield.

Last edited by olddog; 04-14-2019 at 08:03 AM.. Reason: PS
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Old 04-14-2019, 07:27 AM
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I have no idea what fitting the Japanese car companies use. The old American stuff used a double flare for brake and clutch lines. The metal brake lines was made out of a soft metal. A tool will form the line into a double flare. You slide the nut on the line. Then the flaring tool is clamped onto the end of the line, and you turn a bolt that compresses the line into a mold, forming the double flare. Auto Zone will loan you the tool, if you buy the line from them and leave a deposit.

PS
The flaring tool is easy to use. It's quite simple. Just do not forget to slide the nut on before you make the flare, and always leave some extra just in case you have to cut the flare off so you can slide the nut on the next time.

Last edited by olddog; 04-14-2019 at 07:57 AM.. Reason: PS
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Old 04-14-2019, 09:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olddog View Post
I have no idea what fitting the Japanese car companies use. The old American stuff used a double flare for brake and clutch lines. The metal brake lines was made out of a soft metal. A tool will form the line into a double flare. You slide the nut on the line. Then the flaring tool is clamped onto the end of the line, and you turn a bolt that compresses the line into a mold, forming the double flare. Auto Zone will loan you the tool, if you buy the line from them and leave a deposit.

PS
The flaring tool is easy to use. It's quite simple. Just do not forget to slide the nut on before you make the flare, and always leave some extra just in case you have to cut the flare off so you can slide the nut on the next time.
pps Use tube bender for hard lines
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Old 04-15-2019, 05:25 PM
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Pictures of your setup would help
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Old 04-15-2019, 07:13 PM
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Default Thanks

Thank you all for your ideas and suggestions.
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