sidepipes to headers

[NMattison]

hi guys i was wondering how you fastened your sidepipes to your headers. i bought mine from Joe and he mentioned a couple rivets in bottom two pipes.. but i was wondering if there is a different way to fasten these together thanks Neil

[Roscoe]

It was quite awhile ago but I believe I made a slit in the pipes on the headers, swedged in the inner sleeves on the sidepipes and used 4" wide stainless clamps sold by Summit, Jegs, JC Whitney, etc. You will have to break the tack welds holding the 4 pipes together in order to get the clamps on.

You can see in the photo below the shiney inner sleeves and the slits in the pipes.



Here you can see the final install with the clamps.



Don't know if they changed it but you will find that the sidepipe end on the drivers side will have to come in about an inch to parallel the body.

Let me know if you have any other questions,
Roscoe

[Junket]

I just used a lot of high temp silicone between my swedged inner linners(belive the is a total of about 4") you need a little movement from the torque of the motor so it don't crack so far so good in 1700 miles.
Ken

[John Poling]

I used what was supplied with mine except I welded the "adapters" to the sidepipes and welded tabs on both the sidepipes and the headers that are joined together with bolts going through these tabs. This is very similar to what a lot of race cars use. Once this was done and everything was Jet Hot coated, I used Permatex "Copper" to seal it up, this is the same stuff that you would use on you "exhaust manifold/Header" to "head" gasket if you wanted to. It has the highest heat resistance of all the sealants as far as I know.

John

[TonyMadrid]

Hi Neil,

I welded tabs onto the headers and onto the sidepipes. I just placed them at opposing pipes diagonally. The pipes then slip fit together and are held together with 1/4 X 20 nuts and bolts. I also used Copper silicone to seal the slipfit gap.

If you are using headers and pipes from A&C and using a small block, the pipes are too big for the small block headers. The ID of the sidepipes is much larger than the OD of the headers. I welded reducers into the sidepipes so the fit would work and not be loose and sloppy.

Attached are pics of the setup prior to assembly.

I got the tabs from Headertech, Inc on Long Island, NY; Their number is (631) 242-8154; ask for Red. I believe the tabs were about $5.00 a set.

Tony

[Roscoe]

Nice job Tony

Roscoe

[NMattison]

thanks guys i really like your job tony it looks greattt my problem is i already have them thermal coated. so ill probably use the ex. clamps like roscoe. thanks again Neil

[Bruce Edwards]

Neil,

We use a slip fit on the headers when we build them in house. All of the header pipes are separate to make it easy to get them on and off the engine as well as the sidepipes. With a deep slip fit on the pipe it can move in and out a bit as the engine moves but can not pull out. It is hooked to the rear of the car with a rubber insulator held in place with a bolt fit into the sidepipe flange. I have thought about adding a spring set up like on some old bikes but never had a problem with them so never bothered.

[PNJSNAK]

Neil: Welded the reducer couplings to the side pipes and then simply put in a couple of stainless sheet metal screws into each pipe. Check the screws to make sure they don't back out, but after you run them a while enough crud gets on the threads and holds them in place real well. Make sure you put them where you can get at them from below. With the body on if they are on top, it would be hard to get them out. I did not like the idea of pop rivets, but I guess you could always drill them out to get them apart, and you will want to get them apart someday.
Jim
Jim