Main Menu
|
Nevada Classics
|
Advertise at CC
|
S |
M |
T |
W |
T |
F |
S |
|
1 |
2 |
3 |
4 |
5 |
6 |
7 |
8 |
9 |
10 |
11 |
12 |
13 |
14 |
15 |
16 |
17 |
18 |
19 |
20 |
21 |
22 |
23 |
24 |
25 |
26 |
27 |
28 |
29 |
30 |
|
|
|
|
|
CC Advertisers
|
|
02-11-2013, 04:41 PM
|
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: San tan Valley,
AZ
Cobra Make, Engine: 1966 427 CRII SB Ford stroked 408
Posts: 28
|
|
Not Ranked
Brakes
Question: been told DONT run drilled/slotted rotors front or rear on my Cobra unless you intend to race. I want to replace the drums in back with disc's. no problem but was told if you dont buy Baer or wilwood (high $ rotors) you will burn brake and wrap rotor's, something about they take OEM parts and drill/slot them but the metal compound is weak. Is it worth it for the street. I would like your input guys.
|
02-11-2013, 05:24 PM
|
|
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Dadeville,
AL
Cobra Make, Engine: Sold my EM.
Posts: 2,439
|
|
Not Ranked
If the guy(s) who was giving you advice was trying to sell you something, you ought to talk to someone else.
1. Drilled and slotted rotors aren't essential to good working brakes, especially for the street.
2. The front brakes do most of the work in stopping your car, so switching from drums to discs on the rear won't yield a noticeable improvement stopping IMO. It also won't put much heat into your rear brake rotors unless they are significantly undersized.
3. Lots of Cobra replicas, including mine, use factory style brakes designed for much heavier cars. Mine work fine even on the track with repeated max performance braking from 140 MPH.
__________________
Tommy
Cheetah tribute completed 2021 (TommysCars.Weebly.com)
Previously owned EM Cobra
"Never attribute to malice that which is adequately explained by stupidity." - Hanlon's Razor
|
02-11-2013, 05:37 PM
|
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Phoenix,
az
Cobra Make, Engine:
Posts: 848
|
|
Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tommy
If the guy(s) who was giving you advice was trying to sell you something, you ought to talk to someone else.
1. Drilled and slotted rotors aren't essential to good working brakes, especially for the street.
2. The front brakes do most of the work in stopping your car, so switching from drums to discs on the rear won't yield a noticeable improvement stopping IMO. It also won't put much heat into your rear brake rotors unless they are significantly undersized.
3. Lots of Cobra replicas, including mine, use factory style brakes designed for much heavier cars. Mine work fine even on the track with repeated max performance braking from 140 MPH.
|
Plus pad wear is more
Holes and slots can the be the starting point for a crack.
They look cool.
__________________
_____________________
..
|
02-11-2013, 05:41 PM
|
|
Senior Club Cobra Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Gilford,
NH
Cobra Make, Engine: FFR 302 carb
Posts: 8,121
|
|
Not Ranked
Stick with what you have.
|
02-11-2013, 06:16 PM
|
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Bay Area (Peninsula),
CA
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA 427, 427/487 side-oiler
Posts: 1,248
|
|
Not Ranked
My understanding is that slotted/drilled rotors dissipate heat only marginally better but are weaker and can't be turned. But they look cool.
|
02-11-2013, 06:25 PM
|
|
Senior Club Cobra Member
|
|
|
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Mesa,
AZ
Cobra Make, Engine: Contemporary Classic, 428 FE CCX 3069
Posts: 7,501
|
|
Not Ranked
What Lippy said. If you want to run discs and you're not going to race, stick with conventionals.
__________________
Dan in Arizona
CCX3209
"It's a great car and I love it, but it doesn't do 'SLOW' very well."
|
02-11-2013, 06:42 PM
|
|
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Tulsa,
ok
Cobra Make, Engine: Lonestar, 427 Center Oiler
Posts: 352
|
|
Not Ranked
Slotted rotors are wonderful..... in the rain. Since I won't race in the rain, I don't feel the need for them. On a closed in car, sure they would be great. I wouldn't bother unless you just want that look.
Mat
|
02-12-2013, 06:42 AM
|
|
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Colorado Springs,
CO
Cobra Make, Engine: Backdraft, supercharged Coyote
Posts: 2,433
|
|
Not Ranked
Drilled holes and dimples are simply for bling. They provide no additional performance advantage. The holes have a tendency to propagate stress cracks, which require rotor replacement.
Slots are there to shave off a small amount of material with each sweep - kind of like a cheese slicer. When you're racing, the pads can get glazed from repeated hard stops. The slots help to keep a fresh surface.
On the street, or with autocross and drag racing, simple solid rotors are the most effective with a low cost.
__________________
.boB "Iron Man"
NASA Rocky Mountain TTU #42
www.RacingtheExocet.com
BDR #1642 - Supercharged Coyote, 6 speed Auto
|
02-12-2013, 09:07 AM
|
|
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Redding,
CA
Cobra Make, Engine: Cobra Maker
Posts: 722
|
|
Not Ranked
Holes no. Slots yes. Slots relive gas pusher under hi timp. with significantly increases performance of the brake. Holes look cool but have no advantage over slots. Holes only lighten the rotor and can be the start of a crake. Disk are cool but drums work just fine. There is a lot moor to putting disks on and making them work then you might think.
__________________
Bill Emerson
|
02-12-2013, 10:29 AM
|
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Mesa,
AZ
Cobra Make, Engine: FFR MK-I, 302, 780 Pro-Systems custom double pumper, 425HP
Posts: 595
|
|
Not Ranked
It's a myth that slotted and drilled rotors can't be turned. I Just had it done on my 13" cobra mustang (slotted and drilled) rotors. The local auto parts stores (autozone, pep boys, etc) won't turn them but a good machine shop can. The one I use (Basko) does it on a flywheel machine that give it a circular cut, which is best. I asked, "are these better or worse than a plain solid rotor?" Ray said "better, dissipates heat better". I'll take his word for it.
__________________
Mesa Mike
|
02-14-2013, 06:48 PM
|
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: San tan Valley,
AZ
Cobra Make, Engine: 1966 427 CRII SB Ford stroked 408
Posts: 28
|
|
Not Ranked
I thank you all for the input I will just stick with a OEM style rotor for now.
|
02-15-2013, 07:00 AM
|
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Mesa,
AZ
Cobra Make, Engine: FFR MK-I, 302, 780 Pro-Systems custom double pumper, 425HP
Posts: 595
|
|
Not Ranked
Good choice
__________________
Mesa Mike
|
02-15-2013, 09:55 AM
|
|
Senior Club Cobra Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Gilford,
NH
Cobra Make, Engine: FFR 302 carb
Posts: 8,121
|
|
Not Ranked
What he said.
|
02-15-2013, 12:27 PM
|
|
Senior Club Cobra Member
|
|
|
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Mesa,
AZ
Cobra Make, Engine: Contemporary Classic, 428 FE CCX 3069
Posts: 7,501
|
|
Not Ranked
What they said.
__________________
Dan in Arizona
CCX3209
"It's a great car and I love it, but it doesn't do 'SLOW' very well."
|
02-15-2013, 07:17 PM
|
|
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Wickenburg AZ- PHX, Cinci, Indy before,
AZ
Cobra Make, Engine: FFR Mk 3 408 530 - 585 T- mustang Dyno at B&R
Posts: 1,836
|
|
Not Ranked
What all them there guys said
|
02-18-2013, 10:39 AM
|
|
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Paradise Valley,
Az
Cobra Make, Engine: FFR MK3/302/570 street avenger
Posts: 1,348
|
|
Not Ranked
No wonder youse guys have so many posts. What Fitz said.
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
All times are GMT -7. The time now is 07:28 AM.
Links monetized by VigLink
|