Blocking Radiator ???

DWRAT · #1 (**permalink**) 10-20-2014, 07:17 PM

Can I block off a small percentage of my radiator with heavy duty clear Scotch packing tape???
I just installed a new 180 T-stat and it still runs to cool once the t-stat opens, I guess it doesn't close down much after it gets under 180.
I'm running 70 Celsius/ 158 degrees cruising at speed even in warn weather.

DrDuc · #2 (**permalink**) 10-20-2014, 07:46 PM

Sounds like a good use for some large driving lights!

DrDuc · #3 (**permalink**) 10-20-2014, 07:47 PM

You should check the melting temp of packing tape before putting it on the radiator or you may have a mess!

Rick Parker · #4 (**permalink**) 10-20-2014, 07:59 PM

I use a piece of 1/8" clear Lucite plastic and clear Silicon adhesive. 8" tall and the width of the radiator core.

ffr 1137 · #5 (**permalink**) 10-20-2014, 09:09 PM

Oil cooler? if so disconnect it for the street.

Mike

DWRAT · #6 (**permalink**) 10-20-2014, 09:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ffr 1137

Oil cooler? if so disconnect it for the street.

Mike

Oil cooler not hooked up, just for looks I guess.

genolan · #7 (**permalink**) 10-21-2014, 05:15 AM

Before doing anything I would check to make sure the gauge is reading correctly.

Danr55 · #8 (**permalink**) 10-21-2014, 07:33 AM

I second the gage reading suggestion. Make sure your gage is correct. What does the oil temp read when it comes up to temp?

DonC · #9 (**permalink**) 10-21-2014, 07:37 AM

X2 on making sure the gauge is correct. Use a laser thermometer and check the upper and lower radiator hoses when you're sure the engine is at full temp. Even a cheapie HF will work in a pinch.
Not a problem blocking off part of the radiator if the engine is indeed running that cool but make sure whatever you block with can be easily removed "on the road". Approach how much you're going to block off in steps so you don't overdo it.
DonC

CHRIS POTTER · #10 (**permalink**) 10-21-2014, 07:53 AM

If the temp is correct, how about a new thermostat? If the 180 is still too cool. try a 195.

Car Nut · #11 (**permalink**) 10-21-2014, 09:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CHRIS POTTER

If the temp is correct, how about a new thermostat? If the 180 is still too cool. try a 195.

I agree.

I'm sure I'll get a little heat on this but, 180 degrees is really a little low. Low engine temperature isn't good for good combustion, fuel economy or maximum power.

Optimum engine oil temperature should be 220 degrees. Below this it also doesn't allow moisture in your crankcase to evaporate as quickly, fouling your oil more quickly. Nascar engines intentionally run at 220 or more because they make more power. Newer cars all run above 200 as normal.

200 is a better temperature to run at. Change to a 195 degree stat and forget the tape.

DWRAT · #12 (**permalink**) 10-21-2014, 09:43 AM

Both water and oil temps read the same at cruise.
195 t-stat would be my best bet I guess.

Bob Broberg SPF667 460BB · #13 (**permalink**) 10-21-2014, 10:00 AM

Dan, in the long run a cooler running engine lasts longer. Mine runs about 70 degrees for both oil & water at cruise in non-hot weather but still rises to 80 degrees locally. In the summer add 10 degrees to both cases. On the track or driving hard uphill my numbers rise to 100 water and 110 oil. Be careful what you wish for. My motor is older (1972) but I have 61K miles on it, change the oil every 3K miles and it still runs great. When my engine gets too warm it doesn't want to start (vapor lock.) That's why I always open my hood when I stop.
AZ Bob

Car Nut · #14 (**permalink**) 10-21-2014, 04:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DWRAT

Both water and oil temps read the same at cruise.
195 t-stat would be my best bet I guess.

Just to confirm, you said you put in a new 180 degree TStat. Both your oil temp gauge and coolant temp gauge read the same at 70 degrees C. Is it possible you got a 160 TStat in a mislabeled box or just a bad new one. A 160degree F could produce a warmed up coolant temp of 158 degree F (70 C).

A 180F TStat should produce a 190F coolant temp on warm days like we have been having.

That makes more sense than anything as I would think it unusual to have both oil and coolant gauges reading twenty degrees below 180 F

DWRAT · #15 (**permalink**) 10-21-2014, 07:10 PM

Definitely got a 180 t-stat and tested it before installation on the stove in a pot of water with a gauge in the water and it opens right at 180.
My coolant gauge goes right up to 80 in the first 2 miles or so but once t-stat opens it cools back down to 70 and stays there.
Oil temp runs hotter when playing on the street but not open road cruising.
I'm going to stick with the 180 t-stat.
I just cut 3 different pieces of Lucite and will experiment on my next trip. (4", 6" & 8")
No more running at 70 in cool country for me.

vettestr · #16 (**permalink**) 10-22-2014, 11:23 AM

Hey Dan,
I noted on cold start up your engine heats up to 180* but then drops 20* when t-stat opens and normalizes at the lower temp of 160*. You also said you verified opening temp on the stove. You also said your oil temp is concurrent with coolant temps (each at 70C) 158*.

Before hanging your hat on these numbers from a cold start I would run long enough to get everything to settle and fully heat oil and engine bay with coolant at stable readings. Oil temp will be about 20* above coolant but your sensors locations can also affect readings. You need to drive the car not just run in the driveway. Gauges and sensors all rolled up with the +/- allowed still have you at a reasonable reading. Is oil pressure real high? If it ain't broke do not fix it.

After a drive if the numbers look the same and you still have a temp of 160* maybe you are bypassing the t-stat with heater hoses or a bypass hose around the t-stat. I would rather see her at 180* but 160 beats the hell out of 220 or 230.

Karl Bebout · #17 (**permalink**) 10-22-2014, 03:02 PM

Ratti-Dan,

"I would rather see her at 180* but 160 beats the hell out of 220 or 230"

True Dat. I finally wound up buying 6 gallons of Evans Waterless Coolant so I could quit worring about high temperatures. Maybe whoever winds up with my old Rat Motor will be able to figure it out.

Unless you are running some sort of fuel injection or needing to squeeze every last pony(like if you're trying to beat a Chevy), I wouldn't worry.

DWRAT · #18 (**permalink**) 10-22-2014, 03:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vettestr

maybe you are bypassing the t-stat with heater hoses or a bypass hose around the t-stat.

Ya, I am doing that I guess. I forgot about that heater hose that comes out right next to the t-stat.
What's that hose for anyways???

vatdevil · #19 (**permalink**) 10-22-2014, 04:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DWRAT

Ya, I am doing that I guess. I forgot about that heater hose that comes out right next to the t-stat.
What's that hose for anyways???

It's a bypass hose, allows the pump to circulate water thru block and heads while tstat is closed. Have you verified the fan relay switch, there are several temps available for it.

DWRAT · #20 (**permalink**) 10-22-2014, 04:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vatdevil

It's a bypass hose, allows the pump to circulate water thru block and heads while tstat is closed. Have you verified the fan relay switch, there are several temps available for it.

Yes, my fan auto kicks on around 95 or so.
I usually manually kick it on in traffic around 85 or so.