DWRAT DW with out the clearances on the bottom end and what type of
oil you are using I would be very careful. The numbers you tell are fine. Why the change? If you want to poke the bear with a stick,,
.
I run a 15-40 rotella. I have an HVHP
oil pump that when started is 125-128 psi. I let the motor warn up like you should. When Hot, I have a 35-40 psi at idle 750rpms, and 75-80 hot over 2,000 rpms. This is hard on the distributor gear if clearance is not setup right and camshaft has too much end play. Also have added
oil to the 2 gears at the contact point. My car does 98% racing. I use 10-30w for breakin of the first 20 minutes at 2,000 rpms. After this, new filter and straight to 15-40. I also add 1 quart of lucas oil suppliment when the oil is hot. This helps prevent dry startups. I have also added an accusump as a preoiler before starting the motor. I get 35 psi on the gauge, wait 10 seconds and crank.
There are some good oils out there, Couple of guys like the Joe Gibbs customs. Very are not cheap but looking at repair of a $15-30K motor in value is a no brainer.
I like the 15-40 and run this only. Same block, went from a 452 to a 484 and still have no wear and same clearances to the .0000" diget. Save the high pressure numbers for another day and amount of abuse.
You have to see what the motor likes. Watch the oil pressures. IMO no FE motor should idle with less than 30 psi and be safe. Have to remember that the oil pressure reading is in the beginning of the oil supply and not at the back rods of #4 and #8. A test was done that showed a 10-20psi drop in pressure. Depends on the clearances. I have seen motor damage and it seens to be the back rods and mains that recieve the most spun bearings and damage in a block.
Go down one weight and test the motor. Warmup is important. Good luck. Rick L.
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