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Kirkham Motorsports

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Old 01-27-2004, 08:01 AM
trularin's Avatar
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I think the first thing you will need to do is see if you are allowed. There are cities and twps where you need to have a licensed pro do the work.

Any way, it's not that bad. Personally I would never try to mix my own if I can get ready-mix.

Here's a quick list.
1. remove material from the site so you can have about 4 to 5 inches of sand.
2. fill with sand and level. compact with machine until hard ( walk on it and there are almost no foot prints )
3. Place expansion paper ( 3 x 3 ) against all fixed surfaces the mud will be against. Use aluminum roofing nails to secure it.
4. This next step you need to check in your state/city/county. place 6 mil plastic over the sand.
5. Unroll grid mesh wire ( 4 x 4 ) and place on floor raissed with metal raisers you get at the cement store.
6. secure path or cart to deliver mud. If you can have a truck back right in, GREAT! If your drive is paved, you will need a cart or Whitman buggy. You drive it out to the truck, they fill it with mud and then you drive it back. dump and do it all over again.
7. start at the back and work the mud to the back walls first. Bull float every four to five feet.
8. Bull float and level entire slab and wait. once it is hard enough to work, a finisher or two will get out on it and do wonderful things to the cement. If they have a power trowel, it can be really smooth.
9. Pull your forms and clean up.

You will need a minimum of :
two people as grunts
two finishers
two rolls of 4 x 4 mesh wire
19 yards of 4000 or 6000 PSI mud with 21A rock or limestone
expansion paper
roofing nails
tools for both construction and cement.
transit and levels
Mason's line
beer

Should take about two days to prep if by hand.
should take about five hours to pour and finish

Remember to slope everything to the big door.

rebar or rerod is used more for transitions, steps and mud going up. I do not think you have any of these. The mesh will hold fine.

Crack or cut your slab at 8 feet block, 3/4" down. the day after you pour. The mud will still be green and the saw will not have to work as hard.

One last thing, I can not spell, but I do know cement.

call around to find out what 19 yards of 4000 or 6000 psi mud cost, with cartage. 3500 psi mud is that bag stuff you use to put posts in the ground.

Good luck.
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