Fast Cars IFS

[Donunder]

Well three months have passed since having my Arntz registered and it's fair to say I'm really enjoying the ownership experience. The only down side to date has been the ferocious weather we've been having here in Queensland with the widespread flooding, the incredible heat and the fierce tropical cyclone, all combining to ensure the Arntz remains tucked away in the garage for more time than I'd like.

Anyway ... it's now time to get on with ordering the uprated IFS from Fast Cars. My son had made initial contact with Ted at Fast Cars, mainly to inquire about the possibility of fitting larger rotors. I believe that the installation of the uprated front end is worthwhile and probably essential considering my car's age and I'm hoping to have as much information ready to go before I lock in my order.

As part of my research I’m asking any owners who have carried out this modification to please help me with the following:

Did Ted recommend using a front sway bar?
If so, did you buy it from Fast Cars?

Did you corner weight your car to determine a spring rate, or did Ted ask you information about your engine combination (iron or alloy heads & manifold etc)?

What weight coils did you go with?

Did you choose or request any options other than what's offered at the $3825price?

Was there an option to have the unit painted / powder-coated, or did it come bare?

Would you change anything if you were ordering it now?


Thanks for any assistance.

[67JET]

I am very interested in this info also. I'll stay tuned.

[lal Naja]

Originally Posted by Donunder

Well three months have passed since having my Arntz registered and it's fair to say I'm really enjoying the ownership experience. The only down side to date has been the ferocious weather we've been having here in Queensland with the widespread flooding, the incredible heat and the fierce tropical cyclone, all combining to ensure the Arntz remains tucked away in the garage for more time than I'd like.

Anyway ... it's now time to get on with ordering the uprated IFS from Fast Cars. My son had made initial contact with Ted at Fast Cars, mainly to inquire about the possibility of fitting larger rotors. I believe that the installation of the uprated front end is worthwhile and probably essential considering my car's age and I'm hoping to have as much information ready to go before I lock in my order.




Thanks for any assistance.

QUESTION: As part of my research I’m asking any owners who have carried out this modification to please help me with the following:

ANSWER: As far as I know, I believe that there are onlytwo Cobra's fitted with Ted's - Fascars IFS. There are many more MGB's and you can track that down on the MGB Forum. I can link you there if you are not aware of it. You will have to search that forum.

The Two Cobra's with the IFS are mine and Russ.

QUESTION: Did Ted recommend using a front sway bar?
If so, did you buy it from Fast Cars?

ANSWER: Sway bars are essential IMHO. I had designed my own sway bar system using 1" diameter x 48 spline bar that is available from Stock Car Products with the aluminun arms. The good part of their system is that you can fine tune your suspension with various diameter bars that will be totally interchangable with the setup. Depending of-course on how you ultimately design the system. Stock Car Products will also custom grind the diameter of any of their bars which is what I did. I would not use any other system. What ever system you use you will have to custom build the attachment points on the frame/chassis to acommodiate the sway-bar. So go with an adjustable diameter system. I can change out my sway diameter bar in under 10 minutes.

QUESTION: Did you corner weight your car to determine a spring rate, or did Ted ask you information about your engine combination (iron or alloy heads & manifold etc)?

I told Ted what my car weighed with the front to back bias. He specified the springs and offers to swap them out one time only for a different weight. I do not know if this is still part of his program.

Question: What weight coils did you go with?

ANSWER: Do not know what the weight is. Springs are by Hyperco, dark blue (Navy)in color. They may have a website that may identify weight by color.??

QUESTION: Did you choose or request any options other than what's offered at the $3825price?

ANSWER: No, I was his first Cobra customer and I took it as is. Russ had his completely chrome plated. Russ may have had upgraded brakes, Or he had bigger brakes to begin with. Ted did custom hubs to fit his wheels/perhaps brakes too.

QUESTION: Was there an option to have the unit painted / powder-coated, or did it come bare?

ANSWER: Comes painted. Mine is black. I think he offers other colours. Check with him. And Russ had his fully chromed. (Colours? I'm using my Aussie spelling just for you)

QUESTION: Would you change anything if you were ordering it now?

ANSWER: Fastcars offers two widths. I got the narrow one. Had to cut two triangular sections out of the chassis frame to make it fit. As far as I know Russ got the wider unit. Installation should be easier with the wider unit. And wider is better!! Depending on your wheels and back spacing you may encounter some outer fender clearence, but I doubt it. Ted and Russ would have mentioned it in our conversations. Ted came by to see my install before he installed the IFS for Russ.

I believe I did a comprehensive write up on this forun on how I installed mine. Check all my posts/threads through my profile. If you cannot find it let me. know.

Good luck with your project.

Arthur

[SoTxButler]

Don, Here are my answers to your questions.

1. Yes, Ted does recommend using a front sway bar. He built the one on my car and I am sure he would build you one as well if you need him to.

2. He did not corner weight the car. My car was in his shop, but having said that, his experience level would allow him to build this without needing all that info. He has his front end on an Arntz in Germany and of course two Butlers. Except for engine weight, they would be the same.

3. We used 250 lb coils on my car.

4. I also bought the sway bar, a new Be Cool fan and installation while we were building the sway bar. He also built special spindles to handle the six pin hubs and the JFZ calipers and rotors that were already on my car. And then, he chromed everything including the K-member. He says he won't do that again...lol.

5. He is not fond of powder coating and he feels the paint he uses is preferable.

6. I wouldn't change anything other than mayber not chroming the whole thing. I would probably just buy it painted.

He did use the wider IFS on my car. Arthur's is the narrower one. Mine is 2" wider and I believe he would recommend the wider one if you purchase his front end.

In summary, I am very happy with the handling. To put that comment in perspective, I am not a racer, so I am talking about street use. But the car feels better than when the MGB was under there and it is certainly a lot lighter to steer.

Hope this helps

[Donunder]

Arthur: Thanks for your reply.

Yes I have read your informative report on the installation of your front end (several times) and found it extremely helpful. I was looking for any information that Ted might require prior to his starting on the build of my unit. I notice you say he'll do a spring swap one time if necessary but living on the other side of the world, this might not be viable so I want to ensure it's right first time.

Not sure what colour! to go for --red as contrast under there or black to look "factory".

Russ: Thanks to you too.

I measured backing plate to backing plate and it's a smidge under 54", say 53 7/8" so I'll definitely be going the wider version. I'm fitting new rubber shortly so I'll be able to corner-weigh the car while it's at the tyre (Arthur: spelling!) shop. I'll do it with me in and out of the car. Any extra info for Ted can't be bad!

I'm pleased to hear he does a sway bar as well. I can talk to him about that.
I won't have the problem of six-pin hubs, but I'd like to see if the new "dust-guard" Wilwood calipers can be fitted as the ones without the dust guard are actually illegal for road use in Australia! Just one of those silly little bureaucratic compliance issues that mean you may get by for years without a problem running them, but one day in a random transport blitz you get caught and then all sorts of red tape issues arise. Best to go with the "approved" ones and then all's well. It's good to know that Ted is prepared to work around changes like this.

I've seen your photos of the chromed monster lurking under your car. Ted won't do another one? Wonder why? Does look the part though. I'm probably going with red at this stage.

I note your comments about improved street performance. I doubt mine will be seeing any track work either. If the upgrade provides lighter steering with improved front end feel then I'll be satisfied. It'll be comforting to know too that a critical but ageing and weighty component has been replaced with a stronger lighter and more effective one.

Again my thanks to you both.

[Donunder]

Well I bit the bullet today and ordered my IFS from Ted at Fast Cars. Now I'll be like a kid a month out from Christmas waiting for it to arrive.

[67JET]

Good luck. I have been wanting one so bad I can't stand it but it always seems like something else always has to come first. 4 kids I guess. Make sure you take a lot of pictures and post them in you gallery for us to look at. Should be an easy change out.

[SoTxButler]

You will not regret!!!

[lal Naja]

Originally Posted by Donunder

Well I bit the bullet today and ordered my IFS from Ted at Fast Cars. Now I'll be like a kid a month out from Christmas waiting for it to arrive.

I thought that the AU Government took all bullets away? LOL

In preparation for your install, you should start measuring and and do your layout work.

Establish theoretical center line of the car. Take a few measurements across the frame and once you've established the center line, make permanent marks on the frame. I cut a slight groove (0.010" deep with a 1/32" cut-off wheel) in the front frame right under the nose of the car. Another in the frame right behind the IFS, one under the Differential pinion flange and a fourth at the very rear of the car. I use two welding magnets, one at the front & one at the rear and stretch the string between them. You can tap the magnets left or right and use a small Try-Square to center the string to the grooves in the frame.

Check the IRS and see if it's at 90 degrees to the center line and if it's centered on the centerline. Mine was not centered, nor was it at 90 degrees to the center line. (9/32" off center and right side was 3/8" too far to the back) measured at the center of the grease nipples in the bottom of the jag hub and run a string between them to check the 90 degrees to center line. Measure your rear hubs to determine if the grease nipple holes are equally spaced. I found these to be accurately spaced and the easiest points where I could attach a tape measure & strings.

Just in case you find your IRS is not centered or at 90 degrees, you can use the IRS as your datum and move the center line accordingly. Your car will be crabbing a little off center and may not be noticeable. It is a hand-made Cobra after all, LOL. Your choice. I choose to move the IRS and center it.

As I work alone I had to find a way to hook a tape measure to these grease nipple points. It is a PITA to try to measure by yourself. So I machined four custom screws from 1/4" x 28 tpi Machine Screws. Two are used in the JAG hubs and two in the FastCars bottom wishbone grease nipple points.

The the bottom half of the hex heads of the screws are machined to a sharp point to accurately point to the tape measure markings and the upper half to a small saucer shape where the tape measure hooks to. What a breeze to now take accurate front to back measurements and diagonal measurements.

Set your car level, at the correct ride height, pointing forward and measure rear camber. Adjust accordingly. I removed shocks front & back and used turnbuckles to hold the car in fixed ride height stance. If you don't do this getting in and out of the car, or compressing the suspension can change camber. Yes guys???

When you get your FastCars IFS. Mark the centerline on the K member. If you don't want to cut a groove, use masking tape and a fine indelible marker on the tape. My IFS was 1/8" off center and a little askew too.

Either drill out Ted's dead-on accurate four bolting holes from 1/2" to 5/8", may need to go as big as 3/4" like the MGB. Or make templates with tracing paper, cardboard, plywood and elongate the holes. I went through the trouble of elongating the holes with great painstaking accuracy. Then I had to enlarge them to make the IFS centered and at 90 degrees. Talk to Ted ask what he did for Russ.

After locating the IFS in its permanent location I welded locating six blocks to the chassis mounting plates, three on the left side, three on the right. Use 1/4" square key stock or bar x 3/4" long to make the stops. Now I can remove the IFS and re-fit the IFS with dead on accuracy every time. The Jag IRS will also have a positive alignment system.

Perhaps you don't need to do any of this if you have access to an alignment machine.? I've never used such a machine, so I had to be creative and make my own surveyor tools. I guess it's in my DNA, My forefathers worked for Sir George Everest and created the first maps of India. Their work is celebrated to this day for accuracy when compared to GPS mapping, but I digress......

Good luck,

Arthur

[Donunder]

Wow Arthur, thanks so much for that post.

I went through it thoroughly with my mate Scott Hampson (Ozvenom) who'll be doing the installation of the FastCars IFS. He too was impressed with your approach and your marvellous attention to detail. Scott had in fact pointed out to me several "discrepancies" in measurements around the front end of the car when he was doing compliancing/roadworthy work on it prior to registration. It was at that point that we decided to go the FastCars route and all the little niggles will be addressed and rectified when the new front end goes in.

Scott has access to all manner of aligning equipment so he won't be faced with the difficulties you endured but he'll be taking several of your suggestions on board he told me. In his words "We'll get it nice and straight."
I want to upgrade the shock absorbers in the Jaguar rear end at the same time so the car will be brand new front and rear.

Thanks again for your interest and advice. Very much appreciated. It's always awkward dealing with a supplier/manufacturer on the other side of the world, even someone as helpful and professional as Ted, simply because of the distances involved and the inability to drop by for a chat or some assistance, so your advice from a hands-on perspective is invaluable.

I'll be taking plenty of photos as we go along so I'll keep you informed of our hopefully smooth progress.

[lal Naja]

Don, I'm also planning on doing one more modification to Ted's K member. Now that I have enlarged the bolt holes, I will be welding on 4 shaft collars 1/2" ID and 1" OD. to the bolt holes.

After everything is "Nice & Straight" I'll be removing the four bolts, one at at a time. Then replacing the bolt with the correct length (Perhaps bolts custom cut to length, so only unthreaded portions are exposed to the collar) with a shaft collar and then welding the collar in place. This will act as a perfect dowel fit locating system. You can now pull the IFS and replace it and know you are aligned.

The shaft collar will have a 1/4" UNF 28tpi thread with a binding screw. This screw will also act as a locking screw to the 1/2" diameter bolts. Thus reducing your reliance on just the spring (star) washer.

If you go this collar route you do not need the 1/4" x 3/4" key stock welded in as locator blocks. I did this method first and may even remove them later.

I wish I had saved all my email's to Ted. I was giving him a blow by blow description. Would help me too as a good reference.

BTW, If your IRS bushings (needle roller bearings) need attention, you may want to look into the solid Nylon style bushings that are offered my a number of outfits.

Good luck with the work,

Arthur

[Donunder]

IFS ordered March 29th.
It's now April 29th.
Gotta be half-way there -- or better!
Not that I'm anxious or anything ...

[Rebel1]

Originally Posted by Donunder

IFS ordered March 29th.
It's now April 29th.
Gotta be half-way there -- or better!
Not that I'm anxious or anything ...

Tsk Tsk .... patience Don.

Regards

[SoTxButler]

Don,

Make sure you post your experience with the Fast Cars, lots of photos....and that even includes your first impressions when you finally get to see that work of art.

Good Luck

[Donunder]

Ted advises shipping will now be towards the end of May. They're flat out apparently. Patience, patience...

[Donunder]

Still waiting ....

I have this scene in my mind that it's all complete and in the crate, and the lid's being screwed on as we speak! Ted'll probably call tomorrow.

[SoTxButler]

Don, Patience please...it will be worth it. You will love it.

[PDUB]

Lots of pics please Don, once it arrives...




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[lal Naja]

[url]

Now you know why Don is like an expecting father.

I was too while waiting for mine.

Hang in there Don.

Arthur

[PDUB]

What brakes did you end up ordering, Don? Are they larger diameter rotors w/the 6-piston calipers or stock, or...?




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