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02-28-2010, 04:17 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 272
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Not Ranked
Use an IR temperature gun to measure the hose to and from the rad.
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02-28-2010, 04:17 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Alice Springs, central Australia,
NT
Cobra Make, Engine: Classic revival kit (CR3181), gen III engine, T56 6 speed box, AU XR8 lsd diff
Posts: 5,699
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Not Ranked
I have only flushed it with fresh water.
I am really starting to lean toward the radiator,
I can not confirm the problem was there before the radiator was replaced.
Because as listed in first post, the car sprang a leak (I dont know how long it had been leaking for - so not sure if damage was done at this point in time - I mean any damage), I repaired teh water leak, filled with coolant and found water leaks at both radiator top tank (split in tank) and water pump (failed seal - water coming from drain hole at bottom), I priced replacing top tank and replaceing radiator - price difference was less that $200 so I replaced radiator - replaced water pump, timing belt and crank/cam seals at same time.
Filled with coolant, confirmed no leaks, adjusted timing and went for a drive - temp crept up as speed increased (this is the first time I can confirm this happening) So I am now thinking that it is possable that the radiator does not flow enough, the radiator shop is taking the top tank of tomorrow for me, and I will have a look in there.
The radiator guy says he can not look at mine till tomorrow, so I might araldite the split, stick it in and test.
__________________
Cruising in 5th
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Never be afraid to do something new, Remember, Amateurs built the Ark: Professionals built the Titanic.
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02-28-2010, 05:26 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Cobra Make, Engine:
Posts: 2,750
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Another looong shot
Boxxy,long shot but do you have "anything" in front of the radiator inlet opening like spot lights etc... I saw the same symptoms on a car that had had an engine conversion and depsite swapping everything at speed the car overheated......
Turns out the spots lights were stopping/interfereing with air flow... Removed spotlights = no overheating....
Took days looking for the problem to find it was right under his nose! 
Spookypt |
02-28-2010, 06:02 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Alice Springs, central Australia,
NT
Cobra Make, Engine: Classic revival kit (CR3181), gen III engine, T56 6 speed box, AU XR8 lsd diff
Posts: 5,699
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Not Ranked
Thanks for the tip Spook, but nothing on the front of the car.
The car is all as it left Fraud in 1994 (apart from getting hot)
I too have seen plenty of cars up here run hot due to spotlights and winches.
__________________
Cruising in 5th
---------------------------------------------
Never be afraid to do something new, Remember, Amateurs built the Ark: Professionals built the Titanic.
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02-28-2010, 06:06 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Alice Springs, central Australia,
NT
Cobra Make, Engine: Classic revival kit (CR3181), gen III engine, T56 6 speed box, AU XR8 lsd diff
Posts: 5,699
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Not Ranked
I dont know why I did not think of this before, but I have grabbed the old (leaking) radiator from the radiator guy - sealed the split with araldite and will fit the radiator tonight after work, then test it with the original radiator.
If it runs at proper temp then I will know it is in the radiator, I will be there when he pulls the tank off, if there is no rubbish in there then it will be due to the smaller size of the tubes.
__________________
Cruising in 5th
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Never be afraid to do something new, Remember, Amateurs built the Ark: Professionals built the Titanic.
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02-28-2010, 07:49 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Atlanta,
GA
Cobra Make, Engine: CAV GT40 with 331 KC
Posts: 2,187
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Not Ranked
I look forward to hearing what you find out!
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03-01-2010, 02:32 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Alice Springs, central Australia,
NT
Cobra Make, Engine: Classic revival kit (CR3181), gen III engine, T56 6 speed box, AU XR8 lsd diff
Posts: 5,699
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Not Ranked
Ok, well I dont know if I should laugh or cry.
Got home this evening and refitted the original radiator ( I sealed the split tank with Araldite earlier today), filled the cooling system and bled out.
Took it for a road test - the same way I have done so each previous time.
It stayed nice and cool, infact it stayed at about 1/3 on the gauge and teh fans did not switch on.
Took it out on open highway, upto 130kph and drove for 5kls at this speed, still stayed at 1/3.
Turned around and drove home at 95kph in 3rd gear (4750rpm) and still stayed at 1/3 on the gauge.
So I will await tomorrow with intrest to see what the tubes are like inside.
__________________
Cruising in 5th
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Never be afraid to do something new, Remember, Amateurs built the Ark: Professionals built the Titanic.
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03-01-2010, 03:00 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: May 2008
Location: San Jose CA,
CA
Cobra Make, Engine: SPF_R_/BRG/FRBoss302/327CI/FordEFI/Under_Car_Exh/
Posts: 2,523
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Not Ranked
Interesting -
- sounds like a win for Old-Ford-Parts fixed with Araldite. (J&B Weld here in the States)
this would not be the first case of the F#* up brand new rad.
happening more and more.
__________________
Steve SPF 2734 MK3 / Brock Coupe #54- panavia.com
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03-01-2010, 04:59 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2008
Cobra Make, Engine:
Posts: 1,106
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Mark Skaife said to remove the plastic bag from the front of the radiator.......
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03-01-2010, 12:29 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Atlanta,
GA
Cobra Make, Engine: CAV GT40 with 331 KC
Posts: 2,187
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Cool!
LOL!
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03-01-2010, 04:03 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Alice Springs, central Australia,
NT
Cobra Make, Engine: Classic revival kit (CR3181), gen III engine, T56 6 speed box, AU XR8 lsd diff
Posts: 5,699
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Not Ranked
Ok, last night I tested with original radiator in place, well all was good.
So this morning I returned the old radiator to the radiator shop as he is going to pull the tank off today.
Well he did it last night and says he found it blocked about 80% with a metallic sandy substance.
He has no idea what it was in there, but it is now all done, only bad side is he did not keep any of the stuff and I did not get a picture of it.
__________________
Cruising in 5th
---------------------------------------------
Never be afraid to do something new, Remember, Amateurs built the Ark: Professionals built the Titanic.
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03-01-2010, 04:40 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Atlanta,
GA
Cobra Make, Engine: CAV GT40 with 331 KC
Posts: 2,187
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So you're a happy camper again?  |
03-01-2010, 05:26 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Sunshine Coast Qld,
QLD
Cobra Make, Engine: Harrison # 80; Ford 5.0L HO Trickflow heads, cam and rockers and MassFlow EFI
Posts: 3,482
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Not Ranked
Sandy? Where would that have come from? 
__________________
Merv
Ford Cobra
Harrison #80.
Peregian Beach
Sunshine Coast Qld.
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03-01-2010, 05:42 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Cobra Make, Engine:
Posts: 2,750
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Hmmm engine flush required!
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03-01-2010, 06:11 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Alice Springs, central Australia,
NT
Cobra Make, Engine: Classic revival kit (CR3181), gen III engine, T56 6 speed box, AU XR8 lsd diff
Posts: 5,699
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Not Ranked
I will be flushing the block again, I did this before fitting radiator.
The guy at the shop said it definatly was not rust or rubbish you normally find form a dirty cooling system.
__________________
Cruising in 5th
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Never be afraid to do something new, Remember, Amateurs built the Ark: Professionals built the Titanic.
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03-01-2010, 07:31 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 272
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I remember filling my Dads lawn mower with dirt and lego blocks when I was a little kid......
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03-02-2010, 01:23 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Gold Coast,
QLD
Cobra Make, Engine: Harrison #69, HSV LS2, T56, Custom rear suspension
Posts: 604
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Quote:
Originally Posted by *Cobber*
I remember filling my Dads lawn mower with dirt and lego blocks when I was a little kid......
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A Kodak moment? 
Cheers
__________________
Geoff
Cobra Car Club of Qld - UAE Chapter
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03-02-2010, 04:37 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Ipswich,
QLD
Cobra Make, Engine: Harrison Cobra, SC540 Roadster
Posts: 359
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Not Ranked
[quote=boxhead;1032939] says he found it blocked about 80% QUOTE]
This must be a standard answer from all radiator works. Every time I have had a radiator cleaned they always say 80% blocked.
It must be frustating to install a new radiator and then the motor starts to heat up
Warren
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03-02-2010, 04:57 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Alice Springs, central Australia,
NT
Cobra Make, Engine: Classic revival kit (CR3181), gen III engine, T56 6 speed box, AU XR8 lsd diff
Posts: 5,699
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Not Ranked
Very frustrating Warren.
I stopped in at my wifes work while road testing on Saturday, she told me today that I looked like I wanted to kill somebody.
__________________
Cruising in 5th
---------------------------------------------
Never be afraid to do something new, Remember, Amateurs built the Ark: Professionals built the Titanic.
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03-02-2010, 06:37 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Edinburg,
TX
Cobra Make, Engine: Everett Morrison, All aluminum small block ford.
Posts: 436
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Not Ranked
In order to properly form the tubes for the radiator they will use a thin oil based liquid with a fine sand type material. They fill the tube before they shape it into an oval to keep it from crushing flat when they run it through the roller. It also helps in keeping it from crushing flat when they cut it off to length. Just like casting sand so to speak....if it doesnt get washed out before they build the rad...it drys up and...plugged radiator brand new out of the box.
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" If it wont break em loose in 3rd gear, it aint enough power "
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