Classic Revival Spring Rates Take #2

[Aussie Mike]

I found this pic of the kit installed on my rear suspension setup. I was developed a version to suit Mando's CR as he had some 2" shorter control arms made up for his rear (same length as mine). The basic design is the same as the regular width rear end kit but some of dimensions are different.



Cheers

[Sloth]

Cobbindale,

Mike's Rear end kit is a must if you still have a stock CR rear end. It has transformed my car ito a machine that i can now drive with confidence on the street (one handed even...). I had the local engineering shop drill out my tapers to 5/8 and that left the hardest part for me to do being removing the hubs.

Thanks for the info fellas. I will go with the eibachs. Looking forward to catching up with some of you soon.

Stuart.

[Tenrocca]

Just a bit more background to this and a few other things to consider:

Identifying the need to raise the outside mounting point was actually pretty easy, and dissapointing the manufacturer had not taken the necessary steps to design the rear better. Basically I jacked the car up on a level surface, took the shock off and raised the suspension through the full range of travel from full droop to full bump. I started with 0deg toe at full droop, and at 20mm increment while jacking up the suspension, wound the toe arm in or out in order to maintain 0 toe, keeping track of the revised toe arm length.

I drew this all up in a cad package, and from each of the points on the arc created by moving the suspension up and adjusting the toe arm, drew a series of arcs, that intersected at a point approx 35mm below the inboard mounting point for the toe arm. Unfortunately due to the design there it is difficult to move the inner mounting point down the necessary amount, so moving the mounting point on the toe arm up is the easier solution.

I took a slightly different approach with mine, and machined the top of the toe arm at right angles to the brake disk, so the riser stayed vertical and doesnt interfere with the disk. I think an advantage of this is that with a bolt and spacers I can fine tune a little down the track - I plotted a similar chart to Mikes above and got slightly different results too. As no two CR's seem to be the same the ability to fine tune might be advantageous. Either way though it is a bloody easy fix to get a 90% improvement.

I have also found on the rear I have too much negative camber even at full adjustment of the top arm. Again a symptom of the cabbage patch kit syndrome. I think down the track I will make some tubular lower arms like Mikes to allow for a better adjustment there as well. Im curious if anyone else has the same issue on the rear of their CR's?

Cheers

[Aussie Mike]

I think the difference in the graphs may be due to me doing the measurements with 0 toe at ride height. That graph is also the one for Mando's 2" shorter arms. I've got the full length arms graph here somewhere.

I measured mine with 2 dial indicators and a board bolted to the wheel flange. I moved the suspension in 10mm increments and then took the difference between the 2 dial indicator readings. The dial indicators were 600mm apart which is the approximate OD of the tyre.

Being able to shim the pivot point up and down is definitely an advantage. I just worry about the extra leverage loads on a 1/2" bolt. I'd make sure the spacer you use has a wide enough base so that it transfers the loads from a bending load to a torsional load.

Cheers