Jag Diff Toe-In Measurements

[Rebel1]

Jamie, looks like you need shims under the pivot bracket rear bolts.
Keep in mind, shims under the back bolts will reduce the front dimension.

However, even if you shim the pivot brackets to give no toe at all is no guarantee that will translate out to the wheel when you fit the lower wishbone.

The reason for this is the accuracy of how the lower wishbones were shortened (if they were) or the accuracy of the original wishbones.

I found my shortened wishbones were not as accurate as I'd like. In fact, testing some unaltered original wishbones also indicated them to be not accurate. Testing involved running shafts thru both ends of the wishbone and measuring if they were parallel.

So that means even if you shimmed your inner pivot brackets to give zero toe you may not get that after fitting the lower wishbone. You would then have to start the shimming process all over again just to get the alignment correct.

You could assemble the whole diff out of the car and play with the shims until you get zero toe on the outboard end but then the diff may be slightly out of square in the chassis and that stuffs up all your work.

The best way to handle this is to shim your inner brackets parallel and have the toe adjustable at the outboard end of the wishbone.

If you contact Scotty at venom and arrange to send him your wishbones. He has the jigs etc. to make the modification. http://www.venomcobras.com/

If you have trouble following the above I can send you an email with a phone number and we can chat.

[RICK LAKE]

jcraigau Craig you need to get old style GM shims with slots. For setting camber you add or remove from the drive shaft between the rotor and the outputshaft. put car in the air and remove the 4 nuts. let top of assembly fall out, EASY and installed or remove shims. You have to be 100% correct on the end play for the outter driveshafts into the hubs, you really want no play when the hub is warm. As far as the toe, you loosen the bottom to bolts that mount the lower arm to the bracket on the carrier, add or remove to get to spec and tighten. Wiretie both bolts and the 4 nuts for the out put shafts. My specs are +3/4 camber and toe is 1/16" in on both wheels. This is with my weight in the drivers seat. If the car weights for the corners are not done, than you need to start there. Do all suspension work with your weight in the drivers seat. Also make sure the THRUST angle is "0" or +/- 1, no higher. Check all mounts for tightness and rubber for good condition. If the car drift out to one side, start with a tire pressure adjustment, if more than 3-4 psi, there is something wrong with alignment or loose part. car should track straight. Rick L. Ps ask the alignment shop when was the last time it was serviced and setup for trueness. The printout could read perfect and the machine could be 3/8" off and cause all kinds of problems.