Fuel tank fabrication project

[David Hodgson]

Now I might be over thinking it but..... how much volume do the fuel rails hold and will this fuel, not being re-circulated, absorb too much heat and cause vapourising issues. Being under pressure might help in raising the boiling point whilst driving or high fuel usage situation, but if you've driven somewhere and parked in summer, when starting again there will be no fresh circulating fuel through the rails.
I suffered this on a carbied car, but then they run a lot lower pressure in the fuel line.

[Aussie Mike]

You make a good point David. Something I'll have to ponder.

Cheers

[DaveW]

Mike, what about fitting the reg at the tank end, short return line, only 1 line to the pointy end,

[stumpeater]

Mike, When I was doing my fuel system with the same bosch pump as yours, I found a fuel filter/pressure regulator on ebay, I think it was advertised as a chev genuine part, as it had the GM type clip on fittings, and the return line goes straight back to the surge tank. I mounted the pump and filter/regulator on the same plate. All very compact. ( I really should have taken more pictures during my build, then I could show you)

[stumpeater]

I Just found it on Ebay here's the link


eBay Australia: Buy new & used fashion, electronics & home d�r

[stumpeater]

I Just found it on Ebay, here's the link for anyone who's interested.


Chev Holden Fuel Pressure Regulator for LS2 LS3 L98 LS7 | eBay

[Rebel1]

Here is the same filter/reg showing the fittings.

Speed Inc - Pure Power

[Aussie Mike]

Thanks Peter and Les,

I've already got a nice billet SARD fuel pressure regulator mounted in the engine bay that I plan to keep using.

The one advantage of having the reg in the engine bay is that it's easy to set the fuel pressure and you can read what you've got while setting it via a guage on the line. It means when it's getting dyno tuned or whatever I can check and make sure the fuel pressure is right under load etc.

Cheers

[Aussie Mike]

A bit of an update.

The tank is nearly finished. I'm now working out the mounting for it.



I decided I didn't like the look of the smooth corners so re-welded them.

Here's what I'm planning for the mounts.



I’ve folded up some brackets from 5mm plate and then welded them to a 5mm backing plate. These will be welded onto the sides of the tank (2 on each side). The idea of the backing plate is to spread the load over a larger area. Just welding the u shaped section straight to the side would concentrate too much load in one area and it might tear out at the weld.

The brackets will attach to bosses welded to the rear chassis clip and be isolated by the rubber grommets. They are rear bumper grommets that I’ve adapted to the task.

Cheers

[Towmaster]

I am guessing your efi return line feeds directly into the swirl pot? I know my efi pump circulates quite a bit of fuel and it would definitely syphon that swirl pot if you were accelerating for quite a while without braking.... Nice work tho, wish I had the materials / experience / welder to be able to do that stuff...

[Aussie Mike]

Thanks Towmaster. That though had crossed my mind. the return drops into the swirl pot.

I put a short length of hard line on the inside of the tank it to point it down and over the sloping section where the pump is. I wasn't keen on hearing the noise of the fuel running back to the tank so thought that might quiet it down. Kind of like when you wee against the side of porcelain rather than into the water if you want to keep the noise down


Cheers

[David Hodgson]

Originally Posted by Aussie Mike

Kind of like when you wee against the side of porcelain rather than into the water if you want to keep the noise down
Cheers

There are some guys out there Mike, who have not figured that out yet.

[Zedn]

Gday Mike,

How are you going to stop the bolts for the tank vibrating loose?

I have done mine by putting a nolothane bush between the tank bracket and the chassis and then tacking a tab onto the bracket so it can be bent down to lock the bolt and stop it vibrating loose.

[Aussie Mike]

There will be an aluminum bush that runs through the center of the rubber grommet that will be bolted solid to the chassis. The bush will have a mushroom head on it that will sit against the edge of the grommet and hold the tank up in place. Apart from locktite I may drill the bolt head and safety wire it to the bracket.

I'll post some pics of the setup when I get it in place.

Cheers

[stumpeater]

Mike I'm surprised you recon you will hear the noise of the fuel entering the tank, my 044 pump is noisy enough on its own. My sons GTS Skyline 044 was mounted on rubber in the boot and you could still hear it over the CD player!(well almost). I recon when it's low on fuel your tank may act like an amphitheatre, but that will only compliment the crescendo from the side pipes!

[Aussie Mike]

I had it bolted to the underside of the boot floor and it made a hell of a racket. It was louder than the under body exhaust system I had on it. I reckon the whole boot cavity resonated.

I'm hoping having it clamped to a tank full of fuel will damp the noise. But you are right it'll probably get louder as the fuel level drops.

Cheers

[Modena]

looks great Mike, looking forward to seeing the finished product.

[Beejay]

I have a Bosch 044 in my ski boat, geez it is noisy!

Pretty glad I have stayed with the Walbro in tank pump in the Cobra, although it sucks air in tight right handers when the fuel level is low.

Ben

[boxhead]

Wont happen any more ya waxer.

[OZVENOM]

Hi mike very nice work as allways love the design .
Hope to see you soon.
oz