Fuel tank fabrication project

[Aussie Mike]

You make a good point David. Something I'll have to ponder.

Cheers

[DaveW]

Mike, what about fitting the reg at the tank end, short return line, only 1 line to the pointy end,

[stumpeater]

Mike, When I was doing my fuel system with the same bosch pump as yours, I found a fuel filter/pressure regulator on ebay, I think it was advertised as a chev genuine part, as it had the GM type clip on fittings, and the return line goes straight back to the surge tank. I mounted the pump and filter/regulator on the same plate. All very compact. ( I really should have taken more pictures during my build, then I could show you)

[stumpeater]

I Just found it on Ebay here's the link


eBay Australia: Buy new & used fashion, electronics & home d�r

[stumpeater]

I Just found it on Ebay, here's the link for anyone who's interested.


Chev Holden Fuel Pressure Regulator for LS2 LS3 L98 LS7 | eBay

[Rebel1]

Here is the same filter/reg showing the fittings.

Speed Inc - Pure Power

[Aussie Mike]

Thanks Peter and Les,

I've already got a nice billet SARD fuel pressure regulator mounted in the engine bay that I plan to keep using.

The one advantage of having the reg in the engine bay is that it's easy to set the fuel pressure and you can read what you've got while setting it via a guage on the line. It means when it's getting dyno tuned or whatever I can check and make sure the fuel pressure is right under load etc.

Cheers

[Towmaster]

I am guessing your efi return line feeds directly into the swirl pot? I know my efi pump circulates quite a bit of fuel and it would definitely syphon that swirl pot if you were accelerating for quite a while without braking.... Nice work tho, wish I had the materials / experience / welder to be able to do that stuff...

[Aussie Mike]

Thanks Towmaster. That though had crossed my mind. the return drops into the swirl pot.

I put a short length of hard line on the inside of the tank it to point it down and over the sloping section where the pump is. I wasn't keen on hearing the noise of the fuel running back to the tank so thought that might quiet it down. Kind of like when you wee against the side of porcelain rather than into the water if you want to keep the noise down


Cheers

[David Hodgson]

Originally Posted by Aussie Mike

Kind of like when you wee against the side of porcelain rather than into the water if you want to keep the noise down
Cheers

There are some guys out there Mike, who have not figured that out yet.

[Zedn]

Gday Mike,

How are you going to stop the bolts for the tank vibrating loose?

I have done mine by putting a nolothane bush between the tank bracket and the chassis and then tacking a tab onto the bracket so it can be bent down to lock the bolt and stop it vibrating loose.

[stumpeater]

Mike I'm surprised you recon you will hear the noise of the fuel entering the tank, my 044 pump is noisy enough on its own. My sons GTS Skyline 044 was mounted on rubber in the boot and you could still hear it over the CD player!(well almost). I recon when it's low on fuel your tank may act like an amphitheatre, but that will only compliment the crescendo from the side pipes!

[Aussie Mike]

There will be an aluminum bush that runs through the center of the rubber grommet that will be bolted solid to the chassis. The bush will have a mushroom head on it that will sit against the edge of the grommet and hold the tank up in place. Apart from locktite I may drill the bolt head and safety wire it to the bracket.

I'll post some pics of the setup when I get it in place.

Cheers

[Modena]

looks great Mike, looking forward to seeing the finished product.

[Beejay]

I have a Bosch 044 in my ski boat, geez it is noisy!

Pretty glad I have stayed with the Walbro in tank pump in the Cobra, although it sucks air in tight right handers when the fuel level is low.

Ben

[boxhead]

Wont happen any more ya waxer.

[OZVENOM]

Hi mike very nice work as allways love the design .
Hope to see you soon.
oz

[Aussie Mike]

Thanks Scotty, It'd be good to catch up again.

Here's a bit more detail on the mounts.

I machined up some steel threaded bosses. These slot into a hole I've drilled into the chassis rail and will be welded in place. They are just tacked at the moment while I set every thing up.



Here you can see the mushroom shaped bushing that goes through the rubber. There is a 10mm cap screw through the center that clamps the bush against the chassis rail. This can be done up tight and and the set length of the bushing stops the rubber from being crushed. I will probably lock wire them as well just in case.



Just got to tack weld the bracket to the tank now and then pull the whole thing out and weld it properly.

Cheers

[Mando]

Hi Mike, I think the side of the tank will crack at the top of the bracket once you fill the tank up with juice and bounce that weight around on the roads. I hope I'm wrong.

Regards.

[Aussie Mike]

Why do you say that Mando? Just curious about your reasoning. I've had some concerns about hanging the tank from brackets off the sides.

I've tried to spread the load over a large area. This backing for this bracket is approx 4" wide by 3.5" tall. The brackets for the front of the tank where most of the weight is will have a larger backing to spread the load over more of the sheet. The aluminum sheet it's made from is 2.5mm thick so should be pretty sturdy.

I looked at the way Brown Davis made their mounts to get some ideas.

Brown Davis Motorsport - Roll Cages, drop tanks, aluminium and custom fabrication, race vehicle preparation

The drop tank under the Torana is about 120L and I reckon mine will be about 80L.

Cheers