Friday night the son and I took a straight edge mm reading of the worst side then used the digital anglometer to get an angluar number of the same.
Using InvTan(mm measurement/rim size) we figured out where to go next. Now the bottom balljoint pivot point to where the top arm bolts on is near 12" so we calculated how much had to be cut off to get the desired camber angle. Sounds easy? Wasn't for us straw chewin' bucktoothed hillbillies, but we got there.
Only took about 3 cans to leisurely rip the front end to bits ready to mark and cut.
Today it took about 2 hours to scribe up and cut the plates off and tack them back on ready for my master welder to finish off. To get a neat cut and good lines I clamped a bit of angle iron to the plate and shimmed it out as needed to line up with the scribe marks. I thought of using my 9 inch but decided a grinder would be easier
. So with the 4 inch and an ultra thin wheel I ran along the edge of the angle and got very neat squre cuts. All is tacked on now and I should be able to achieve 2.5 - 3 deg camber give or take a bees-dick from side to side.
A quick anglometer check suggests existing caster of 2.5 pos with the 2 balljoint shims still towards the rear of the vehicle.
When all is said and done I might buy a Longacre or similar caster/ camber gauge as they aren't all that expensive and will be a good toolbox filler. Also learnt that 2 floor tiles with shiny sides together with salt between make excellent turn plates when measuring things up.
So far all is good.
Pic below for those interested in what control arms I am using taken during the disassembly stage. I have tidied up the inner gaurd cutouts and this is also a good chance to add some fat under the balljoint boots and new rack boots.
Thanks for all the input guys.
Hybrid Mode
