Good quality electrical connections & terminals

[Modena]

What have people used to wire their cars? I’m anxious to do a good job, and want quality terminals and quality wire. A have a decent ratcheting crimp tool, but I still question the quality and sturdiness of terminals like these;



I have done some reading on aircraft specification terminals, which have a larger wire crimp area and a better insulation “grab”, although I can’t seem to find anywhere that sells them.

Has anyone tried these sort with built-in heat-shrink?

Female Spade - Red - Pkt 8 - Self Sealing Quick Connectors - Jaycar Electronics


I’m talking about a body loom here, not necessarily an engine/ECU loom. I’d like to achieve OEM quality levels, but of course without the proprietary locking connectors that manufacturers use, what is the best type of terminals to use? Given that there will be many relays I suppose spade connectors will be plentiful, but what are the best ones to use?

Also what is a good source of quality size-matched wire? Narva etc from Autobahn et al doesn't really appeal.

I'd like to hear what different people have done in wiring, and how you rate the quality of connections made with certain products.

[sambo]

I ordered all of my coloured wire and Narva connectors (2/3/4/6-way) from Graeme at Larrikin Products. Great service and way below retail price. LARRIKIN PRODUCTS - Cable Ties, Electrical Imports, Wholesale, Trade, Retail: direct to the public - larrikin products, sydney -

I used Narva connectors wherever I needed to allow lamps etc to be removed from the main loom, everything else is soldered and heat shrinked. I don't think I used a single spade terminal, plenty of ring terminals for earthing to the chassis etc.

[FWB]

just a observation when i rewired my car.....i found a cleaner install and more luck getting good connections not using the plastic shrouded connectors like you have shown. where at times it was all i could find i cut them off the connector, and used good quality heat shrink to replace it. made it easier to fish multi-wires thru the loom also.

[Krait]

Insulated connectors when crimped use the deformed the plastic skirt as a strain relief. If the plastic skirt is removed and heatshink is used some strain relief may be provided but the mechanical style is really the way to go.

If uninsulated connectors are deemed preferable then the type with the strain relief clamp (pictured) should be used, then the heatshrink is simply providing electrical insulation as designed.


A different crimper is required as well.

Cheers

[RamblinWreck]

A number of builders I know have used Weather Pack connectors with success. I'm using them in my current build and appear very sturdy and definitely weather proof. They're used on some production cars. DIYAutoTune.com Megasquirt Kits / Assembled Engine Management Systems, Wideband o2 Sensor Systems and tuning products sells various sized kits which is cheaper than buying them individually and they accept international orders.

[Modena]

Originally Posted by Krait

Insulated connectors when crimped use the deformed the plastic skirt as a strain relief. If the plastic skirt is removed and heatshink is used some strain relief may be provided but the mechanical style is really the way to go.

If uninsulated connectors are deemed preferable then the type with the strain relief clamp (pictured) should be used, then the heatshrink is simply providing electrical insulation as designed.


A different crimper is required as well.

Cheers

this type look good, and with heat shrink I can see them providing a good connection with good strain relief - what are they called, and what is the crimp tool called?

[WKB]

I used Weather Pack connectors for all the connections when I wired my Harrison. They availale in 1, 2, 3, 4(2 types) and 6 pin configuration. Not the cheapest around and they are similar to what vehicle manufactures use. There is a crimp tool required for these fittings.
I bought most of my fittings, crimp tool and terminal removal tool from the US Ebay. Save heaps.

Warren

[Gav]

As a sparky of more than 20years experience, I am yet to see a insulated crimp lug that was properly terminated fail.
If they are properly selected and crimped you will never have any problem.

Waste your money on good stuff that makes you go fast or stop well.

[Zedn]

Deluxe 321pc Weatherpack Sealed Connector Wiring Kit | eBay

[Krait]

Modena,

Link to connectors

Gav,

As an ex industrial electrician of 30+ years I agree with you, however personally I don't believe they are the best choice in cars. There are some crap insulated connectors out there and non trade people often can't tell the difference. A good crimper is essential too, for insulated and non insulated connectors alike.

Cheers

[Z-linkCobra]

If you must use crimp on terminals use the Weather Pack type. I have had too many failures with crimp on terminals other than Weather Pack. I use solder and heat shrink, unless you break the wire or the terminal itself...the bond will not fail. Make sure you use rosin core solder and pre tin the wires to be soldered.


just my 2 cents

[Gav]

When I build my next space shuttle I might be concerned with the crimp terminals, but until then I will stick with the basic stuff.

[alffie]

Modena
Just google MS 1210,1310 crimp they are the one of the aircraft connectors. You will need a good crimper to use Aircraft connectors but when you use them you can tell the difference in quatilty to narva and jaycars connectors. There are a lot of supplyers in the US and with the dollar so high it will be cheaper to buy them from the US than buy Narva or jaycar gear!

[strida]

Modena,
Try Custom Kitcar magazine issue #8 (nov 09-jan 010) I got some useful info there a while back. I like the weatherproof connectors for front lights, fuel pump etc where moisture may be an issue.

[trularin]

I used weather tight where the application called for it and if .25 spade connectors were avaialble, I used the best grade connector I could get.

Each connection was crimped and then soldered. Each connector was shrink-wrapped. Harnesses were cable tied until it became 3/8 inch, then a heavy plastic wrap was used to protect teh wiring from vibration and wear.

I used color coding as best I could, with the wire I was using. Most was 16 guage, but there were a few 18 guage wires for signals.

Tach and speedo were shielded wires with grounded mesh as a wrap.

I used a 1 - 2 inch service loop for most of the wiring and screwed down anchores to secure the harnesses.

I have not had electrical problems other than LED lights ( not enough load ).