Boot and bonnet rain gutters?

PeterAllen · #1 (**permalink**) 02-13-2013, 01:32 AM

My GTO kit has the boot lid and bonnet moulded with the major body panels - a front and a rear. It is great in that when you cut them out you can be assured they will align. However, a big downside is there are no rain gutters.

I can probably get away with no gutter around the bonnet opening but I will need something for the boot. I assume most Cobra kits come with a gutter moulded in but I wonder if anyone has found something to use as a gutter. Thanks.

I thought I might be able to glue on a rubber extrusion from Spectrum but I'm open to an ideas. Spectrum Rubber

mickmate · #2 (**permalink**) 02-13-2013, 03:34 AM

Most of our panels use something like this
Weather Strip Seal Weather Strip Seal [All] - $33.75 : Acton Custom Enterprises, Custom Metal for Cobras
or this
Finish Line Accessories
You'll find a profile that will work for you whether it's simple or fancy.

PeterAllen · #3 (**permalink**) 02-13-2013, 04:15 PM

Most weatherstripping is used as a compression seal when you have two overlapping surfaces, what I have is a gap between two surfaces on the same plane.

Aussie Mike · #4 (**permalink**) 02-13-2013, 10:21 PM

I reckon you will need to fiberglass something in. It shouldn't be to hard. you could make a scaffold from urethane foam and glass over it and then scrape the foam out afterwards.

A lot of the hot rod guys have bodies where they have to cut the pannels out. I remeber seeing a 32 body where the boot lid had to be cut out. It might be worth checking out some of the hot rod forums to see what they do.

Cheers
Cheers

Zedn · #5 (**permalink**) 02-15-2013, 11:34 PM

I reckon mikes way is the go with foam or some thin ply. You dont really need a gutter as such, just a lip that sits a bit lower. I would use two strips of thin ply as a spacer that sits flush with the cutout and then another piece that sticks out about 15mm the whole way around the opening. Glass over the top and then use the pinch weld bubble that has the bubble at right angles to the pinch weld. you could add a little bead of sealer inside the pinch weld to make sure it seals.

PeterAllen · #6 (**permalink**) 02-16-2013, 06:20 PM

Thanks Mike and Zedn. It looks a though I'll be heading down that track but I'll chase up some hot rodders first.

The big concern I have is that the rear spoiler is not attached to the boot lid as with most cars but does combine with the boot lid to create a gully right on the bottom edge of the boot opening. I reckon in one of our tropical downpours I will need something akin to house guttering - with a 4" downpipe through the boot - to dissipate the water coming in through the join!

Note; the gap shown in the photo will be narrowed to a conventional size.

Rob. Smith · #7 (**permalink**) 02-18-2013, 06:45 AM

Make a mold over a rubber or plastic hose ( glue or tack the hose to a sheet of melamine coated ply) in the shape of the opening. Then lay fibreglass over the hose with about a 3/4" lip either side. Make it the correct thickness then lift it off the ply...fibreglass doesn't stick too well to melamine...you will have a nice gutter with a lip on each side...trim it to suit and glass it in. { the inside lip could become the lid "seat" } If you pack the inside lip up a bit ( on the mold ) with plasticine or slicked up cardboard...that would allow some space for a pinch-weld seal.....just a suggestion.

PeterAllen · #8 (**permalink**) 02-18-2013, 02:26 PM

Rob, I really like that idea, in particular how it overcomes and issue relating to bends/corners, etc. I'm thinking if I slice a 20-30mm dia plastic tube in half I could secure it in position and then lay the fibreglass directly in position. I'll discuss it with the chaps at TAFE tonight but I know they'll want me to fabricate something out of steel or aluminium!

(edit) On second thoughts there is no need to slice the tubing... D'oh!

Rob. Smith · #9 (**permalink**) 02-19-2013, 03:57 AM

Yep...the simple tricks come from complicated ones rethought by practical people. ha ha ha

Rob. Smith · #10 (**permalink**) 02-19-2013, 04:05 AM

Right now I'm in the process of building a hood scoop 'Buck' for a mould. It is laid directly on a meter square of melamine ply...Once hardened it just 'cracked' off the sheet with a knife under one edge. I've used this particular sheet of melamine for a long time and it's filthy with all sorts of fibreglass mess. I just scrape an area clean and do the work...the shine went away ages ago but the fibreglass still doesn't stick. Try it.