Ford 5.0ltr Computer issues

[DaleG]

I have lots more, but the files are too large to post here. If anyone wants them, PM an e-mail address and I'll send as attachments. Hi Baz!

Cheers, Dale

1987-1993 computers: You can use either the A9L or A9P in a five speed fox body mass air car. Some say the A9P has a slightly aggressive spark and fueling tables and does not retard timing between shifts and the A9L does but I have no verification on that. The A9L computer came in 1987-1993 5 liter-manual transmission Mustangs. The A9P computer came in 1987-1993 5 liter-automatic transmission Mustangs. The A9S came in 1988-1993 California emissions Mustangs. The X3Z computer came in all 1993 Cobra Mustangs.

86-93 Mustang idle issues: Idle issues are common on these cars, especially 5-speed cars. EGR Valves, Idle Air Bypass solenoids and Throttle Position Sensors are common causes. A bad connection with the 10 pin (salt and pepper shakers) black and white engine electrical connectors can also cause poor idle quality. To ensure a good connection on the 10 pin connectors a little modification can be done which is fairly easy and will cure some surging and hanging idle issues on 86-93 Mustangs and should be the first thing done when tackling any idle issues.

10 Pin Connector modification:
1. Take the 10 pin connectors apart (salt and pepper shakers).
2. use a pick like tool to spread the male terminals open more so they make better contact. In the center of each male terminal there is a small seam and seams down the sides of the terminal which allows you to spread them open.
3. Apply some dielectric grease to the terminals
4. Plug the connectors back in.

Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) adjustment:
Without the proper adjustment, the throttle position sensor (TPS) will give the computer false reading as to the exact throttle opening. A false reading will limit wide open throttle performance. A voltage reading must be taken using a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) with the Key On/Engine Off and with the Key On/Engine Running.

The TPS is located directly on top of the throttle body and is adjusted by loosening the two phillips mounting screws and swiveling the sensor until the highest reading is found. It may be necessary to elongate the holes with a small drill bit or small file to achieve the desired reading. The spec range for Key On is from .88 to 1.0 volt; shoot for the .90 to .98 volt. Make sure voltage reaches/exceeds 2.71v at WOT.

Incorrect Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) voltage will result in reduced performance including a possible hanging/surging idle. The best way to take a TPS voltage reading is by using two safety pins through the wires coming from the sensor. The positive lead is attached to the green wire, while the negative goes to the black wire. Always ground the meter through the sensor's black wire. This gives a direct, and more
accurate ground into the computer.



Resetting the base idle:
1. Clear the computer's idle memory by disconnecting the battery for 20+ minutes.
2. Disconnect the Idle Air Bypass solenoid
3. Reconnect battery
4. Start engine and set idle speed to desired RPM with idle screw on throttle body
5. Turn off engine and reconnect the air bypass solenoid
6. Set TPS voltage between 0.90 - 0.95 volts with a digital volt meter
7. Start engine and let it idle for 2 minutes with no accessories on.
8. Turn off engine for two minutes
9. Start engine again and run for 2 minutes with every accessory turned on.
10. Turn engine off again.

[Chris L]

Bit of an update, The box was sent to Injectronics in Melbourne and they detected some diode issues. So I thought bugger it I will get a second hand one and asked for it to be sent back so I could grab the numbers of it and match it up. The idea was to get one with the same numbers. The numbers on it are nothing close to what I was expecting so I suspect the computer was changed when the wiring was done and I either forgot or didn't know.

I thought I could get a 93 Mustang ECU box for a manual from the USA and be fine...........first mistake I guess.

The Number on the ECU is E8ZF-12A650-D2 and the box has "no smartlock' scribbled on it in texter...........and that's it, nothing more.

The D2 at the end is throwing all I have contacted, the rest appears to be from a late 80's Mustang. No one seems to be able to be sure.

Long story short...........back it goes to Injectronics to be fixed at twice what a second hand unit is worth, because I just cant be 100% of a direct replacement second-hand.

The fun of it all !
Cheers
Chris L

[byroncobra]

Chris,

I had no end of grief with my "93 mustang engine management and wiring,
to detail it all here would take pages.

Suffice to say that in the end I tossed the lot and installed a new engine loom and ECU from Massflo EFI. I already had their injection setup.

This promised to be a cure all......well, it wasn't quite but Chris Richards over there in the US supported the product well, tolerating lots of stupid questions and diagnosed many of my screw ups with patience.

This guy really knows engine management.

The car runs really well now.

Anyway, I see that you are persuing fixing the old A9L, if that doesn't work out PM me and I'll tell you more of the story

[Chris L]

Thanks Greg for the insight, I have a new engine on the way which will run a different brain, hence the reason no big spend on an aftermarket for this one, just want them to talk to each other and get along before the whole unit(Engine and ECU) is put up for sale.

Cheers
Chris
PS Thanks to all who offered their ideas.