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Not hopeful at this stage Spooky, unless there is a change in the available budget.. :( Took Denner to the Administrative Tribunal.. won the case on all points, although the payment was rather modest in comparison to the damage he caused. The court ordered amount was supposed to have been paid by the 12th.. as yet not sighted. I expect he will be getting a visit from the officers of the Local Court soon. As ever his actions speak loudest.
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FFR did supply a dual Willwood MC set up with a balancing bar.. nothing wrong with as far as I could see, and it apparently gives a decent pedal feel as well. |
How does a master cylinder comply with ADR's? What ADR? Is that something about dual-circuit? Understand the ABS compatibility issue.
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The AU/BA cab chassis braking system is not equipped with ABS. Would that M/C be useful to you.
A brake guru I spoke to about a BA booster said "don't use a BA booster, plastic crap, use a late E series". That's what I'm planning to use with Jag brakes. (AU M/C that is) Cheers Dave |
Mine passed the engineering brake tests (as did every other CR ever tested in NSW as far as Im aware) no problem with the standard MC setup which is the same as originally supplied with your FF kit (dual wilwood MC and balance bar). Not sure what ADR your saying they dont comply with but my engineer didnt have any issues with them.
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Only master cyl ADR I can think of is the fluid level.
I think most CR guys have used Hyundai cylinder caps to get the float and light. |
A few points there.. as ever, no matter how much research you do the best answers come out when you are actually building.
I went on my understanding of the advice from my engineer.. I could have had it wrong... In principal I tried to keep the braking components matched to avoid any issues.. and ended up making several for myself.. :) |
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Back and forth on this build, dodging some items for a bit then diving in again.
Had fabbed up the the sheet metal for the sunken floor a few weeks back, finished the boot now with dynamat and 6mm accoustic liner. "Moved' the holes in the rear for the tail lights after welding a plate onto the existing rectangular section for the OE option. Also roughed up a drive shaft loop from some left over 1/8" plate. Paint in chassis black and install during next week. Will take the body off again.. fit the insulation to the boot and roof areas then fix it on before testing the brakes and starting on the doors, which are no clearer to me than they were on day 1. |
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drive shaft hoop installed.. has around 15mm clearance as a minimum.. Im assuming this would be sufficient with a solid mounted diff..??
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Tail lights now fitted ready for the sparkie.. spoiler lowered 5mm and glassed in - 4 layers on each side, is probably the strongest part of the body now.. :)
Appreciate any advice re the previous post and the clearance on the drive shaft loop. Cheers Chris |
All depends on how much your engine moves, I would imagine it would be fine but you may have to wait and see.
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Should be O.K. I think the ADR's state that you should have a minimum of 10mm clearance, including when the engine is rotating on the engine mounts due to engine torque.
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Thanks gents.. the engine struggles to twist on the mounts much at all, am using a low profile 60 series Landcruiser rubber mount which has very little lateral give.
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Took the car out for its first serious gokart yesterday to bed / test the new brake set up.
After testing well on the blocks with no jammed pistons, a firm pedal and good retardation I sought out a quiet space and took it for a few 200 - 300 metre or so runs. Brakes checked out fine, good balance, able to lock up the fronts with an intentionally heavy foot. It certainly drives like a light and very stiff car, was more nimble than expected. My son was watching events from the sidelines... he asked me when he jumped back in the tow car why I kept leaving black marks on the road as it changed gears and swerving as I was taking off? I told him I have no idea officer... it must have been somebody else..:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D |
Hey Chris
Got an interesting email back from Factory Five in regards to right hand conversion. They charge $2000us for the conversion. Do think that is reasonable? Ian |
Hi Ian... If you are happy with the standard footwell size, pedals, brake mc's and steering column then yes.
You will need a steering column with a collapsible element for a road car. I also built cages around much longer and wider foot wells on both sides. You really need to make a call re the parts and set up you intend to go with. Personally a bare chassis with the steering rack mounts and suspension pick up points only.. Then delete footwells, firewall m/cylinder mounts, engine mounts and the gearbox mount would be my preference although that may be a bit much for FFR to deal with as far as changes. |
The engine is offset to the passenger side on the RHD version too.
Im looking at one too ;) |
So assuming some of this stuff is the same as for the roadster, then the FFR steering column is collapsible, and it is what I used when I registered my car.
I also did my RHD conversion myself and I would not have USD$2000 in it. The most expensive bit was the RHD rack, but the rest was just some metal and labour. I did also cut the engine mounts out and welded new ones in (to suit the LS3) to move the engine back to the centreline. That all said, I guess $2000 will save a fair few headaches. But I would prolly suggest to do it yourself because that way you get to custom make the footboxes to suit, which can add a heap of space. |
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Hi Tim.. the Coupe I got had a solid steering column.. no collapsible element... they could have updated their parts, but none that I have seen in the US have a collapsible shaft.
Some progress on my labor of love below... Assembled some bits of the dash while waiting for a mate to head over to help fit the body. Next step would be back onto the doors (which I expect will take a fair bit of time to fit external and internal handles plus power windows), paint and fit the hood, do a bit of body work (front spoiler and rear spats) and wheel well trims before electrical fit off, final wiring then trim. If I say it all quickly it doesn't seem like another 12 months work.. !!! |
Wouldn't it be nice to build replicas as they do in the states with no regard for ADR's, chassis torsional considerations no emissions requirements or seat belts, just go with a big block with twin tunnel ram manifold and demon carby's, 5 point harnesses, side exhausts pumping out 100+Db etc etc...
The yanks are one of the most litigious countries in the world yet are so relaxed when it comes to replica's and road rules it is not even funny.. Sorry for the rant, but it would seem that in comparison to the states we get anal probed just to build something that we use on the odd occasion, and understanding safety etc.. we are still so heavily regulated and none of the states in OZ talk to one another which makes it even more difficult to build these cars - something has to change and we need to follow the US for ICV's IMHO.. This will benefit everyone building these cars and create a greater economy as the varying rules are the biggest hurdle to jump when building a kit car... |
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