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thanks CK.. :)
No seals as standard, I do have a D section clip on seal for the window frame, then two stages of rubber seal around the door.. one near the door lip and a second 2 part compression seal near where it meets the body. Should be water tight.. :) Remade one hinge plate this afternoon to get a little extra travel.. :) Remade the crash bar and uprights for the door frame this morning.. managed to put a nice bend it it while I was welding out of sequence... ! Does anyone in Sydney have access to a press...? EDIT.. used the car wheel and a couple of blocks of wood with a variable pivot point to straighten the door frame rail.. not completely, but sufficient to make it workable.. :) |
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Progress, if you can call it that with the doors, frames and alignment as well as fitting the skins to the frames.
Ended up remaking the drivers (RH) side frame completely, far easier the third time around, but it actually fits nicely now. Probably spent around 4 months elapsed on the doors, which isnt great, but its also a big one to overcome. The USA version, without the side impact protection (ref the build thread from JimS on the FF cars site) is far easier to get it all packaged in the limited space available. Have glassed a couple of brackets with a curved base onto the door skin. The flat surfaces mate with a matching L bracket welded to the door frame. These allow some movement in and out... and with the help of the small hammer, a little forward to rear also.. (edit) Added two more top hat style brackets with welded nuts on the lower half to complete the mounting points and allow the skin to be tilted independent of the frame to get a nice fit when its comes to final assembly. The US guys use a stud with a perforate base that they glass to the skin.. ebay, amazon and the local hardware supplies dont carry these as far as I can see... would have made life a bit easier for sure...! See https://www.mcmaster.com/#perforated...studs/=15qi234 Best to all. Chris |
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More progress on the drivers door..
Had added the bracket for the inner door handle since taking the video. The speaker will fit to the rear of the bracket for the window reg motor. Will mount that to the inner door panel. Just need to do the final template for the glass and its done for the moment. Will make up some perforated base studs in M8 to hang the passenger side door rather than the angle brackets that have been used thus far. Fairly happy its only a TWO door car..!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! External alignment of the frame to the body is great.. no building up of the edge required. Video available at https://youtu.be/wobS6g-B57g Cheers Chris |
Looks like you have a very nice alignment there Chris, and I can see it all looks like it works really nice.
Well done mate - your a pioneer in this area. |
thanks Wil... shame you are not closer. A week of skilled labor would bring completion forward 6 months based on my ability and opportunity.. :)
PS.. General Custer was apparently a pioneer too... just not that many followers.. :) |
Took the body off mine over the weekend.. been patching and repairing the fibreglass in 27 different locations from the all the 'prototyping' and mods to the standard shell that have gone on over the last 18 months.
Will do the wheel alignment checks with the body off, reinstall, fix it down and finish the fit of the doors, then its final elec fit off before trim and paint. If you say it quick enough it will be over really soon and wont cost too much.. ! Hopefully I'll be an entrant not a spectator at this years Nationals.. :) Cheers Chris |
Hi Chris. Glass 4 classics may be able to make glass windows for you. I think the other company is Vintage auto glass or Antique auto glass. I chatted to one of the companies about glass for my 32 Tudor hotrod. They use 5mm glass for power windows compared to the normal 6mm. Less drag on the bailey channel for the electric winder motor. Hope that helps,
Neil |
hi Neil.. great info.. :) thanks. I was aware of Highland glass also in the south of Sydney.
Chris |
Roll cage given a final finish coat, nody back and headlining fitted.
Spent a charmed afternoon adding a 12mm sandwich plate to the engine mounts so the sump sits above the bottom of the chassis rails. Need to rework the steering column brackets now to clear the AC unit... all achievable, but far easier done when everything is not installed around it. Fitted off the head and tail lights as well as one door.. the passenger side is not as happy to fit neatly.. hopefully make some progress over the long weekend before sending it off for final elec fit off then trim. Spent a short period at Wakefield for a GEARS club race meeting... some exotics, some very expensive machinery and a quiet a few home built clubmans... 7-8/10th's racing... a great bunch of gentlemen having a fun day out.. :) Enjoy the break.. I think most of us are looking forward to it..:) Cheers Chris |
What sump are you running Chris?
I have my engine sitting in place and the sump will be 40mm lower than the frame. I am running a VE unit in mine. |
hi Gav,
Its a 2014 LS3, VE also has the stock AL sump. Arent you worried about knocking it on a speed hump or kerb on the track..?? |
....or concrete barrier/fence post?
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No not really, I'm more concerned with clearance between the top of the gearbox and the tunnel.
I'd prefer more room there. BTW the same sump has runs on the board as far as smashing concrete is concerned ;) |
ok.. I raised that part on mine... 20mm or so.. its does cramp the inside of the dash a bit but to every problem I create through interfering with the standard config there is a solution.:rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:
With VIC club rego I expect you dont need the min 100mm ground clearance..? |
club reg requires a roadworthy certificate, and that has a check for ride height. Incidentally my RWC inspector enlightened me that minimum height is supposed to be checked with a car full of adults and their luggage....define that as you will!
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with 750 / 500lb springs Im not sure it will move much anyhow.. :)
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Hi Chris, you could use the C6 LS3 Corvette sump to overcome your clearance issue. By raising the engine you will also affect the driveline angles which could cause vibration problems etc. The Corvette sump will give you about 50mm more ground clearance.
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Quote:
EDIT... dropped the engine back down with the help of gravity.. :) Been looking around for the C6 sump (or oil pan).. GM parts direct in the US is around $270... rather then $350 (improved performance) to $450. Is the pickup reusable with this sump... any recommendations on local suppliers..? With thanks Chris |
I used the kit from Improved Performance, you need the Corvette pickup. Comes with a new pickup, windage tray, dip stick and pan gasket $560 usd shipped.
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ok.. thanks CK.. :) ordered
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