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deano59 06-15-2015 02:38 AM

ok about to start building this soon as the axles and electric brakes have rocked up as have the rocker springs and hangers i have the sheets of alloy for the floor and ive ordered all the cladding as well.

took some finding here in sa then they wanted drug money for it compared to interstate but i haggled and played them off between each other till i got the best deal i could and i was happy with first lot of quotes come back at around $2200 not including gst i ended up with $ 1550 gst inc and delivery to where im building the trailer.

the steel was ordered thru a friends workplace as was the springs brakes and axles and has saved a bucketload on the build i will list all the prices everything has cost as i go along bearing in mind i have not paid retail for a lot of it . so hopefully this weekend we will start production i still need to move my compressor /mig welder /dropsaw /plasma cutter and other stuff down to the workshop ive rented of a friend while its in between tenants.
stay tuned for further updates
cheers dean

deano59 06-22-2015 07:05 AM

well work as started on the new trailer we have cut the frame and supports out to the right length and just laid them out on the floor . other bits have arrive like the panels to enclose it with and my large head black pop rivets turned up as well my tail lights rocked up they look like truck ones.
so nice and big and my new genset rocked up 4.5 kva it's just a cheapie from ebay but so far ive had a 3 bar electric heater and a microwave that i bought to go in the trailer all running off it at once with no probs .
if it last a couple of yrs i will be happy . need to get a good pure sine inverter and a couple of deep cycle batteries and a solar panel as well .
i will post some pics as soon as i find the cord that plugs my digital cam into the pc so i can download them..
cheers dean

razerwire 06-22-2015 05:56 PM

Built a few enclosed trailers. Ones i built had shape of TPD trailer. Laid out frame on ground, squared up, welded together. Built walls like house frame with top and bottom 2x2 plates with 2x2 studs. Floor fame was 2" wide with angle iron wielded to inside so a beaver tail was easy to do at back. Tipped walls up and wielded to floor frame. Put cross 2x2 between walls to form roof and front of trailer. Put temp bracing to hold walls when framing roof. Then put 2x2 at 45 angle at top corner between wall and roof about 18' long or longer if higher ceiling. Made sure layout started from back of trailer so 48" wide prefinished aluminum sheets would hit in center of 2x2 wall studs. Started putting sheets on from back and overlap 1" with next sheet because used double sided tape to put sheets on walls. Would put tape on studs and leave outside cover on tape, then hold sheet up in place, with help and stick edge toward back of trailer on. With help would pull sheet far enough out to get hand on outside of tape and pull strip of protecting film off and stick down to second stud and keep going till sheet was on. Over lap next sheet 1" and keep going till side was done. Went to other side and started at back of trailer again with double sided tape putting on siding till done. Front of trailer had polished aluminum diamond plate up 48" for stone guard. From there up used same siding. Roof was one piece of aluminum set on top in sun to expand before putting on with double side tape. Edges were screwed down with angle trim that covered roof and sides. Used stainless for one trailer and aluminum for rest. Used strip of trim at bottom of wall to finish, Floor used 3/4" tongue and grove exterior glue marine plywood laid over floor frame and angle iron at wall edges. Smaller cross frames were used to follow beaver tail angle one sheet or 48" from back. When making side walls figure where box over tires will go and make the bottom of wall go up high enough and long enough to frame tire box to. Made frame with shaft for drop down back door. Stiffened back opening with larger stud at each side of opening and dropped cross piece down to make header over door opening. Finish floor with covering of choice. FWIW Framing like a house made sense to me and it did go very fast. Most people think its factory made so I guess we were successful?

deano59 06-22-2015 08:23 PM

i get a great deal of enjoyment building stuff like this in the last 12 months or so ive built a few car trailers not enclosed but had all the fruit alloy floors /tilt drop axles swing down ramps ect .
the cl;adding on this is like a 2 mm plastic with alloy sheet each side of it polished white for the inside of the trailer and the out side will be gloss black and the floor is 3 mm alloy checker plate . wont need to beaver tail it due to using 4 drop axles shets where they join will be in alloy extrusion that the sheets slide into and they will line up with the frame of the trailer . well thats the plan sometimes things get changed on the run lol. any pics of your trailer razerwire always looking at new ideas and see how people set them up inside for different uses .
cheers dean

razerwire 06-23-2015 12:01 AM

Not to good with computer but I will try, may have to wait for my 7 year old grandson to help lol.

xlr8tr 06-23-2015 04:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by razerwire (Post 1353331)
Built a few enclosed trailers. Ones i built had shape of TPD trailer. Laid out frame on ground, squared up, welded together. Built walls like house frame with top and bottom 2x2 plates with 2x2 studs. Floor fame was 2" wide with angle iron wielded to inside so a beaver tail was easy to do at back. Tipped walls up and wielded to floor frame. Put cross 2x2 between walls to form roof and front of trailer. Put temp bracing to hold walls when framing roof. Then put 2x2 at 45 angle at top corner between wall and roof about 18' long or longer if higher ceiling. Made sure layout started from back of trailer so 48" wide prefinished aluminum sheets would hit in center of 2x2 wall studs. Started putting sheets on from back and overlap 1" with next sheet because used double sided tape to put sheets on walls. Would put tape on studs and leave outside cover on tape, then hold sheet up in place, with help and stick edge toward back of trailer on. With help would pull sheet far enough out to get hand on outside of tape and pull strip of protecting film off and stick down to second stud and keep going till sheet was on. Over lap next sheet 1" and keep going till side was done. Went to other side and started at back of trailer again with double sided tape putting on siding till done. Front of trailer had polished aluminum diamond plate up 48" for stone guard. From there up used same siding. Roof was one piece of aluminum set on top in sun to expand before putting on with double side tape. Edges were screwed down with angle trim that covered roof and sides. Used stainless for one trailer and aluminum for rest. Used strip of trim at bottom of wall to finish, Floor used 3/4" tongue and grove exterior glue marine plywood laid over floor frame and angle iron at wall edges. Smaller cross frames were used to follow beaver tail angle one sheet or 48" from back. When making side walls figure where box over tires will go and make the bottom of wall go up high enough and long enough to frame tire box to. Made frame with shaft for drop down back door. Stiffened back opening with larger stud at each side of opening and dropped cross piece down to make header over door opening. Finish floor with covering of choice. FWIW Framing like a house made sense to me and it did go very fast. Most people think its factory made so I guess we were successful?

Hi Razerwire, any ballpark idea of all in cost to build one like this yourself?

Aussie Mike 06-24-2015 02:18 AM

26 posts and not one pic. You are killing me Deano

http://www.quickmeme.com/img/e2/e202...f1aed90042.jpg

deano59 06-24-2015 02:25 AM

just having a few probs trying to get them on here keep getting upload failed .there is only a few pics of the brakes and springs and some of the framework been layed out i will keep trying to get them on here.:-)

http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/s...7/ppuser/12614

i think ive doubled up on some pics this site is the only one i have trouble with putting pics up for some reason
i will work it out sooner or later :-)
cheers dean

leroy17 06-24-2015 06:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by deano59 (Post 1353457)
i will work it out sooner or later :-)
cheers dean

C'mon man, work it out sooner.

You're about to start a build, you know the rules, plenty of pics.

albanycobra 06-24-2015 07:00 AM

Here you go Uncle Deano


http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...04_800x600.JPG

razerwire 06-24-2015 03:59 PM

Last one cost about $4600.00 three years ago. It has fancy wheels, lots of E track on walls, two rows of aluminum locking track length of floor. Winch in front of trailer to pull cars in not running or so you don't have to crawl out window. Winch has remote that is wireless which is handy. Tried to take pictures but last one which is close to my house had vehicles and fence blocking view. Will take pictures next time friend takes out. Price of aluminum and steel changes all time and don't know prices in your area but should give good idea. Trailer is 8' 6" wide 22' long box and 8' high. We stepped the tongue bars up to make trailer lower. Put pillow block bearings and steel roller on back cross beam underneath of trailer so won't scrape going up driveways and such. Snapped lines on concrete floor for walls, helped to layout for sheets of siding and helped make angle cuts since we had some that were not 90 degrees. I should take pictures as I'm building but i just get busy and forget. Owner gets asked all time where he bought his trailer which makes a person feel good, maybe that makes up for sore backs i guess.

deano59 06-24-2015 07:46 PM

i just bought 2 remote winches one small one to raise and lower the rear door and a bigger one to help pull the car in if bent . we are racing this weekend so no progress till next week now .
your not wrong about the sore back razerwire even after just placing the bits in place on the floor and cutting a few bits on the drop saw and getting up and down the back of my legs complained a bit the next day . oh to be only be in my 20's again and not mid 50's lol.
cheers dean

Modena 06-25-2015 05:41 AM

This thread has way to many words and not enough pics!

deano59 06-25-2015 06:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Modena (Post 1353571)
This thread has way to many words and not enough pics!

im working on that ..

deano59 07-11-2015 05:53 PM

1 Attachment(s)
managed to get out to the workshop for a few hrs despite the bloody cold weather and cut a few more bits and tacked them in place looks are deceiving it's 7 1/2 metres from front too rear

deano59 07-12-2015 11:15 PM

1 Attachment(s)
a few more bits and pieces for the fit out arrived today a 3000 watt inverter and a dc to dc charger to control the battery charging . i have 2 x 200 watt solar panels to go on the roof of the trailer and 2 x 150 amp hr deep cycle batteries on the way as well.
the dc to dc charger can charge the batteries from the cars alt and solar panels at the same time or just the panels or just the alt what ever it feels is the best option .
the ranger goes in to fords for a service on thursday and getting the smart charge function turned off as well .
as for the trailer itself ive ordered the sheets of 3 mm alloy checker plate for the floor and ramp so hopefully that rocks up this week.
more updates as work progresses
cheers dean

deano59 08-06-2015 08:00 PM

1 Attachment(s)
hi all
sorry for been slack there has not been much to show but since last report ive ordered a 280 amp deep cycle battery and a 200 watt solar panel to go on the roof i got talked out of using two single batteries when i could get one big one and have less wiring to cope with .
also have ordered the axles so it;s starting to get there .we have welded underneath the chassis and painted the underside.
last night we flipped the frame over a job much harder than i thought it would be due to it's size . it took 3 blokes and 2 engine cranes as thats all we had there a block and tackle would have made it easier but then i would have needed a forklift to get to attach it to the rafters and well if i had a forklift i wouldnt have needed the block and tackle lol.

now the frames up the right way we can start too make the frame work to support the sides and roof too. its all getting there slowly.
in the background is a picture of another tilt trailer i built for myself and have just sold to help pay for the new one the new owner wants 4 wheel electric brakes fitted to it instead of just the ones on the front axle that it had so im just waiting for those to rock up so i can finish that one and get it out the way. cheers dean i hope this picture attaches lol.

xb-60 08-06-2015 09:02 PM

Looks like your milk crates pass the crush load testing Dean ;)

Cheers,
Glen

edit: should add...progressing well :)

deano59 08-06-2015 10:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by xb-60 (Post 1358296)
Looks like your milk crates pass the crush load testing Dean ;)

Cheers,
Glen

edit: should add...progressing well :)

yeah i know but i had used all the jack stands on the other trailer and didn't think about bringing anymore from home till i got there so had too use what we had ....there up to industry standard i believe lol..

leroy17 08-11-2015 11:57 AM

Looks good and I am sure that you under estimated the weight of it when you are working with all the pieces, and then have to lift it.

Milk crates..... no one has ever bought one.... but everyone's got one.


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