Tremec TR6060 bleed valve help

guye · #1 (**permalink**) 08-19-2015, 07:45 AM

Hi team.

I've got my hydraulic clutch line all setup and ready to bleed.

FYI, my TR6060 MER is from a 2013 VF Commodonor, and has this bleed nipple extension outside the bellhousing as standard.

When I go to loosen the bleed nipple, instead of just the nipple turning the whole extension shaft turns.

Question is: Is this normal? Is the sealing point where the original nipple would have been? Or is it just the end that should turn? In which case I'll need to try and get some lock pliers onto the shaft so I can loosen the nipple. I certainly want to avoid removing the engine!

I'm only concerned because I don't want to fill the bottom of the bellhousing with brake fluid!

Aussie Mike · #2 (**permalink**) 08-19-2015, 08:05 AM

That's why I machine a hex on the end of my extension shafts.That way you can put a spanner on the extension to brace it when you crack the bleed nipple.

Maybe try gripping it with some vice grips.

Cheers

guye · #3 (**permalink**) 08-19-2015, 09:00 PM

So when you make your extension Mike, that is a simple straight through tube with the 'blocking' occurring right at the bleed nipple, correct? in that case it makes perfect sense.

I suspect that my 'factory' extension doesn't do that, and the 'blocking' when locked actually occurs in the original spot.

PeterAllen · #4 (**permalink**) 08-19-2015, 09:46 PM

Guye - On my t56 it appears the seat is on the inner end. I installed a flexible extension and now have the bleed nipple up on the firewall - so much easier.

Aussie Mike · #5 (**permalink**) 08-19-2015, 10:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by guye

So when you make your extension Mike, that is a simple straight through tube with the 'blocking' occurring right at the bleed nipple, correct? in that case it makes perfect sense.

I suspect that my 'factory' extension doesn't do that, and the 'blocking' when locked actually occurs in the original spot.

You may be right Guy. The original T56 had the blocking part of the bleed nipple down in the body of the slave cylinder and the extension just a tube to let the air bubbles out. The problem with them used to be that it was very difficult to put any kind of bleeding tube arrangement over the end of the fitting. They may have addressed that in yours with the nipple on the end.

Mine is a tube sealed against the slave cylinder with a copper washer and the bleed nipple seal is on the end.

Perhaps you could check yours by seeing how far you can poke a wire in the end. The wire should go in a dair way if the seal is at the bottom and not far if that's the bleed nipple on the end or just a barb to attach a hose

Cheers

guye · #6 (**permalink**) 08-19-2015, 10:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aussie Mike

Perhaps you could check yours by seeing how far you can poke a wire in the end. The wire should go in a dair way if the seal is at the bottom and not far if that's the bleed nipple on the end or just a barb to attach a hose

Gold! Why didn't I think of that? Thanks Mike!

I'll try that tonight and let you know how I go (just in case anyone ever has the same question!).

guye · #7 (**permalink**) 08-19-2015, 11:00 PM

And Thanks Peter - I had the option to buy an pre-made extension like that from Pace. I opted not because I measured the fitment and determined I would (just) be able to reach the extended nipple as is, and would seldom need to do re-bleed so difficult access was not a problem, as long as I did have access.

I just hadn't thought of this problem until last night :-)

Towmaster · #8 (**permalink**) 08-19-2015, 11:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by guye

And Thanks Peter - I had the option to buy an pre-made extension like that from Pace. I opted not because I measured the fitment and determined I would (just) be able to reach the extended nipple as is, and would seldom need to do re-bleed so difficult access was not a problem, as long as I did have access.

I just hadn't thought of this problem until last night :-)

Probably a good reason they offer the extension kit....

guye · #9 (**permalink**) 08-19-2015, 11:18 PM

Oh I know Towy, its a good option to have for sure. No doubt.

But you just have a stop somewhere! I figured if it doesn't work as is, worse thing is I'd have to completely dissemble the engine bay and remove the engine gearbox, etc, etc. How hard would that be really?

The bleed extension option is a must-have for other LS variants, and also older Tremec units that don't even have the extension.

PeterAllen · #10 (**permalink**) 08-19-2015, 11:56 PM

I really had no option other than the extension, you can hardly get a Tally-Ho between the t56 and the tunnel on a 240Z.

(edit) I didn't notice before but I think the extension has touched an exhaust in my eagerness to start the engine before all wires, cables, etc, were properly fastened... D'oh.

Aussie Mike · #11 (**permalink**) 08-20-2015, 04:01 AM

You can cut that protective sleeve off with no real impact on the hose, it just stops it abrading on things.

guye · #12 (**permalink**) 08-20-2015, 06:50 AM

It worked Mike. Wire pokes all the way in. So the extension is only that; the lock-off point is still in the original spot, so the whole extension need to turn to open the nipple to bleed.

Case closed. Problem solved. Thanks!

Towmaster · #13 (**permalink**) 08-20-2015, 05:10 PM

Another long term option if you intend to give the motor a little more than a daily driver commodore is a better concentric slave cylinder. I had one fail on the Rodeo (L98 / TR 6060) in Newcastle on the way back from the Nationals. Didn't break anything but just popped off the end and required the engine / box to be pulled out to rectify the problem. Pain in the ar$e to have to drive all the way back to the Sunshine Coast with no clutch and then return the following weekend to pick the trailer back up.
When I was talking to a clutch guy about what to put in the supercar he said he would never run a stock concentric slave cylinder on anything other than a stocker.

Aussie Mike · #14 (**permalink**) 08-20-2015, 05:55 PM

I wasn't real impressed with the release bearing setup on the stock slave cylinder. The bearing sits in a plastic carrier and the piston pushes against plastic. I'd thought of machining up an aluminum carrier but in the end decided to leave it.

guye · #15 (**permalink**) 08-21-2015, 02:46 AM

Good to know gents. Not planning on much tracking, so hopefully I'll be ok.

Anyway, got everything bled ok tonight, but how do I know it's working? I can't run the engine, and I thought I might be able to turn the rear wheels by hand in sixth gear maybe with clutch in, but I couldn't.

So then my number 1 apprentice suggested I have a look! He was joking, but then I remembered my Aldi special inspection camera! Worked a treat.

So is this about the right amount of travel I should be seeing? Click to play...