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Kirkham Motorsports

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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 06-29-2017, 06:48 PM
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A polished or raw aluminum body, why can't you lay down a clear coat to protect finish, either in satin or gloss ?
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 06-29-2017, 06:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FUNFER2 View Post
A polished or raw aluminum body, why can't you lay down a clear coat to protect finish, either in satin or gloss ?
As far as I understand often the clear coat wont stick without a primer (kind of defeats the purpose). Those that do, often turn yellow in UV light.

Then even if you could clear coat... you couldn't scotchbrite it to spot clean it.

So i'll pass
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 06-29-2017, 08:22 PM
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Hum ?
I'm a retired body & paint guy, so I'll ask around.

The purpose of the clearcoat is to protect what ever finish is under it, including a polished or scuffed finish.
So, you wouldn't need to scotchbrite it, treat it like it's paint.
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 06-29-2017, 11:50 PM
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Originally Posted by FUNFER2 View Post
Hum ?
I'm a retired body & paint guy, so I'll ask around.

The purpose of the clearcoat is to protect what ever finish is under it, including a polished or scuffed finish.
So, you wouldn't need to scotchbrite it, treat it like it's paint.
My apologies if I wasn't clear.

Clear-coats don't stick to the raw aluminium well, those that do turn yellow in sunlight, so you'd have a tarnished coloured finish.

If you got a scratch in brushed aluminium, you just hit it with scotchbrite and you'd never know...

However, if you get a scratch in the clear coat you'd find it much harder to "blend" the scratch out either by polishing with a compound or by re-painting with touch up clear-coat.
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 06-30-2017, 01:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dimis View Post
My apologies if I wasn't clear.

Clear-coats don't stick to the raw aluminium well, those that do turn yellow in sunlight, so you'd have a tarnished coloured finish.

If you got a scratch in brushed aluminium, you just hit it with scotchbrite and you'd never know...

However, if you get a scratch in the clear coat you'd find it much harder to "blend" the scratch out either by polishing with a compound or by re-painting with touch up clear-coat.

There's a product called Gibbs which I use on all metal and plastic surface. It would protect aluminium and even bronze from bird stains , finger marks and general grime. Luv it.
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 06-30-2017, 05:25 AM
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Yesterday I was filling up and got about thirty questions about my car from several people.. there were five questions asked if it was "real" . ( tempted to say yes ha ha ) so being fibreglass or aluminium ..its just a personal choice. Only cobrafiles are impressed and they know real from reproduced. Sooo go with your own personal choice to satisfy you. No one else.
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 06-30-2017, 07:14 AM
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Having driven many fiberglass and one aluminum cobra (mine) a few differences come to mind:
Fiberglass tends to absorb some of the road and mechanical noise.
It also seems to insulate the cockpit from heat better than metal.
When pranged, it's easy to find a body repairman, or DIY.

Aluminum used by Kirkhams is thicker and tougher (tempered) than the originals, and will stand up to moderate abuse.
It transmitts more road,mechanical, and body noise.
It also absorbs and transmitts heat (something al is noted for) and here in Fl, driving the car on hot days (90+ deg) is like driving an OVEN !!!! The whole car gets hot!!!
Last trip, I had to wait till it cooled down befor I could touch the hood and prop rod !!!

But, I still love it ! there are things that can be done with al that can't be done with fg, like the very small rolling of the fender openings, door and hood edges, that make Kirkhams works of art !
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 06-30-2017, 09:06 PM
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ive never driven a alloy one but ive been for a decent ride in kents Kirkham ..you feel all the road bumps and feel the road as it changes surfaces I think that may be cause all the suspension is hiem joints and I expect my pace to ride the same . the biggest thing was from my point of view I was **** scared I was going to dent it climbing in . kent was saying it's a bugga to keep clean from bugs and even people touching it left marks from the oil in there skin..i suspect that's why some people paint the alloy bodys.

they are fantastic to look at and kents car drew attention every time we stopped or even at red lights people would stare at the car def not the car for you if your the shy bashful type.
im happy with pace composite body I think most people are smart enough to know there are not too many real ones been driven around south Australia ..

cheers dean
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Old 07-06-2017, 05:07 AM
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Thanks everyone for your thoughts. I must confess I do still have my heart set on an aluminium cobra....

I just had a long chat with Wil from ICCARS about his kits - it is so nice to talk to someone so passionate about cobras. Lots of fantastic and practical advice from him.

His new chassis sounds very impressive too.
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Old 07-07-2017, 07:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dimis View Post
Its unlikely you will choose an aluminium body due to any practical advantage.
There is nothing practical about an aluminium body... BUT then again there is nothing practical about a cobra, yet here we all are

Given the choice I love the aluminium - how else can you do this?



Droooooool!
always wondered how the glare is driving around on a sunny day ??
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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 07-09-2017, 03:44 AM
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Maybe a silly question, but if you made the body out of steel and then chromed it, would it look the same ?
JD
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