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Kirkham Motorsports

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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 11-05-2017, 06:00 AM
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this thread has inspired me to go googling spinner tools. here's one:

Sarto Rocheleau - ¬ CobraHalibrand type Spinners¬ ¬ ¬ ¬ ¬ ¬ If your Halibrand spinner looks like this one, the tool will fit.This tool applies equal force to all 3 ears of the spinner without distorting the spinner.¬ ¬ ¬ ¬ ¬ The tool drops onto the s
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 11-05-2017, 04:49 PM
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One other little trick I did is that I drilled 1/8" holes in all the spinner ears so that I have more choices of just where I attach the safety wire. This prevents having a wire running in the way of reaching the air valve stem.
rodneym likes this.
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 11-05-2017, 06:03 PM
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Karl - that reminds me that this winter I will be drilling those extra holes in my spinners. I have one that ended up like that close to the air valve. I can still
check and put air in but it is a minor pia.
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Old 11-06-2017, 04:32 AM
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To loosen mine I use a spinner removal tool that works great and saves beating on the ears with the lead hammer. It fits over one ear and hooks to the wheel and then you use a 3/4 wrench to tighten it. If it is to hard when you get it tight whack the spinner with a hammer to break it loose and them finish with the removal tool.

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Old 11-06-2017, 06:12 AM
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When tightening the spinner with a lead hammer, whack it lightly a few times to snug the wheel up, but then drop the car to the ground and load the wheel/tire with the car's weight before you tighten the spinner. Trying to beat on it with the wheel in the air is just beating your bushings and bearings.
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Old 11-06-2017, 06:12 AM
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I recently got one of the spinner removal tools that sounds to be the same as yours but I haven't used it yet. I'll get a chance to try it out when my garage
is finally completed in a couple of months. Looks like it should make the wheel removal process a lot more controlled.
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Old 11-06-2017, 06:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron61 View Post
To loosen mine I use a spinner removal tool that works great and saves beating on the ears with the lead hammer. It fits over one ear and hooks to the wheel and then you use a 3/4 wrench to tighten it. If it is to hard when you get it tight whack the spinner with a hammer to break it loose and them finish with the removal tool.

Ron
Can you post a picture of it Ron?
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Old 11-06-2017, 06:28 AM
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Dan,

I will see if I can find a picture of it and if I can remember the link to the site that I got it from.

Ron
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Old 11-06-2017, 06:31 AM
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OK Dan, I found it. Here is the link to the site that I bought it from and also a picture of it.

Performance Unlimited Automotive Center - Hartford, Wisconsin - USA Main Lobby



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Old 11-06-2017, 08:06 AM
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Quote:
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OK Dan, I found it. Here is the link to the site that I bought it from and also a picture of it.

Performance Unlimited Automotive Center - Hartford, Wisconsin - USA Main Lobby



Ron
Ron - I hope that comes with good instructions. I'm not sure how it works.
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Old 11-06-2017, 09:28 AM
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Ron, for sure a fine tool to open very strong tightened spinners. But this tool fits only for Halibrand wheels, not for FIA or even Sunburst.

Here another option for a tool which works for all kind of wheels:

Tork Striker Spinner Removal Tool

or the alternative from DPS Products
see #66 ff: Knock Off Spinner Tool

Werner

Last edited by super; 11-06-2017 at 09:30 AM..
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Old 11-11-2017, 05:33 PM
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Guys

I was doing a bit of reading about the anti-seize products, as I wondered what reaction with the aluminium rims, knock-off shaft and spinners the various anti-seize products might have.

Realised I have a tub of Loctite Nickel 771 compound in my chemical stocks and this seems to read as ok to use. It is a high heat resistant variant but it is the chemical mix that is of concern to me.

Anybody got some definitive advice of the nickel based product and potential reactivity?

I know I'll never use up this tub of product so trying not to buy a second different tub.
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Old 11-12-2017, 03:01 AM
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Nickel will be fine, that's what I'll use.
Btw it's a bastard to clean up, my wife once complained about some of it getting on our carpet (beats me how it got there) CRC contact cleaner gets it off beautifully.
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Old 11-12-2017, 10:46 AM
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In aerospace we use a lot of LB 771 (Nickel) anti seize on turbine engine parts.
Rule of thumb is to grab a pair of Black Nitrile gloves when using it. (good below 2400F)
(Nickel is a cancer causing agent) SDS (used to be called MSDS sheet)
http://hybris.cms.henkel.com/henkel/...N&matnr=235028

For normal use areas like landing gear, bleed air plumbing, flight controls (good below 1800F)
C5-A (copper) anti seize is typically used.
http://hybris.cms.henkel.com/henkel/...US&language=EN
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 11-12-2017, 01:21 PM
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Thanks guys for the confirmation. Had read it can be a pain if not used sparingly.

Good tip on the chemical hazard too ta.
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Old 11-13-2017, 12:29 PM
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Stephen,

as I already mentioned, I use a product from Weicon. I am not sure if you will get this over there, but I like it.

It is white, metal free, ceramic based.

This is the link to the technical data sheet:
Anti-Seize High-Tech | Coating and Protecting | Oil and Gas | Industries | WEICON Germany

And here a picture to how it looks like:
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Old 11-13-2017, 03:02 PM
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Super

I'm sure I could source the product if I had the will but just don't need another chemical in the midst of the myriad of others I have accumulated in the garage, especially with a suitable anti-seize to hand.

The nickel variant is carbon grey but I'll be sparing in its use.

Thanks anyway.

Steve
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