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Question for DRB Builders
Hi all, question for anyone out there who has built a DRB using the Torana running gear.
Have any of you had any concerns with the way the steering universal connects to the steering rack ? The top of the steering rack shaft is narrower in diameter than what the universals are made for. Its only a little bit but is bothering me all the same. Have you simply ground a new flat spot at his point ? Any help appreciated, Cheers batdan |
Hi Batdan,
Just finished the steering on my DRB. I had the same question and contacted Peter at GT40 Australia, as he now runs DRB. Basically you just grind or cut the narrow tip off. If you do this you will find that the notch (flat spot) in the Pinion is in the correct spot for the uni joint to fit without any further modifications. I think the reason it is not in the manual is that some V8 Toranas's already had the modification done and they must have based the manual on one of those. Let me know if you are still not sure and I'll be happy to explain in more detail or send you a diagram. |
Thanks for this, this would make sense. Was the intermediate shaft supplied by DRB long enough after the modification ?
How far through the build are you ? Cheers |
The connecting shaft is the only thing left to do to complete the steering.
Looks like it needs to be about 38 cm long (easy to measure once you have the uni joints on). I've been told by Graham Docker (DRB agent in VIC) that the shaft only needs to be mild steel. So I'm just going to get some mild steel rod of the same diameter, cut it to the right length and grind the notches in the end. If you have a grinder it should be a piece of cake. Then again the DRB price is only twenty something dollars. I just cant be bothered waiting for it to come from QLD. I purchased my chasis/body kit in December 02. Its now on wheels. Used the torana diff but had it rebuilt with 3.9 to 1 ratio fine spline and LSD. All suspension is now fully rebuilt as are the brakes although I still need to make the brake lines and brackets. I managed to get a 2002 model XR8 motor and 4 speed auto which has only done 4000km so I will be able to put it straight in without too much modification (will need different extractors and alternator mount brackets etc). I have drilled most of the holes in the body work for lights etc but also had an accident which I need to repair. So where are you at. Maybe we can help each other. Regards Cameron |
Hi there Cameron, looks like you may have bought the engine and box from the same car I bought my rear end from.
Mine came from a fella out Waverly way in Melbourne, is that where you got your parts from? |
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You should check with your Engineer to make sure that mild steel is OK for compliance. In NSW mine had to be made out of high tensile or stainless.
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I did my steering shaft in bright steel. It's much tougher and is actually easier to machine. It's available from most steel supply places and isn't much more expensive than ordinary mild steel.
Cheers |
Hi Cameron,
I took delivery of mine last December as well. Things are progressing slowly - I have the front suspension rebuilt, new steering rack , pedal box fitted and pedals aligned, steering column in, door locks on, all the lights fitted, hard brake lines in. I'm about to put some photos in my gallery so have a look if you get the chance. Sounds like you got a good deal on engine and gearbox. Are the late model engines easy to pick up in Aus ? Is it fitted to the car ? What are you going to do for wiring ? Did you pick up the complete wiring loom from the XR8. Cheers Dan |
Hi all,
Get some pictures on soon. After seeing the Roarin Forties cars in Missouri at the 'Run N Gun' I really like the look of the 40's. Think I would need a 'Gurney' bubble to fit in though. :confused: Hell they look fast just standing still. Have seen a GT40 -think it is a DRB?? - up close painted in the Gulf colours and it was also special. I am envious. Heaters, airconditioning, roof !!!! %/ Cheers Bernie Bernie Knight Mt. Gambier South Australia. |
Hi Dan
I took delivery of mine late 2002, I think mine must have come out in the same container as yours. Have you upgraded your suspension in any way? ie. bigger swaybars etc. I am upgrading my front brakes to 290mm ventilated & crossdrilled rotors and rear to hq drums,but I am unsure as to how far I need to go with suspension (I plan on doing some club sprints slaloms etc. ) Anybody out there with a completed DRB, I would love to know what you have done as regards suspension. Cheers Peter |
Peter,
I have also gone with 290mm rotors. I have rebuilt the suspension with nolathane bushes and Kings springs but apart from that it is stock. I haven't fitted a sway bar yet - my car will probably only be road driven but was also wondering what options are available. Is your engine fitted ? Is there plenty of room for the standard sway bar. Just realised after running all my hard brakelines that I forgot to put in a proportioning valve, oops. The Toranas had a connecting device for all the brakelines that I think was also a proportioning valve - it also had the brake warning system built in - did / will you use this connector? I think I'll just get a Wilwood valve to do the trick as it doesn't look like we are required to have a warning system. I would also be interested in any photos of completed DRB engine bays as I never know how close the engine will be to various components. I am still undecided on engine. Cheers |
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Here's a windsor in a DRB. Injection Perfection manifold and Autronic computer. Solid roller camshaft. Nice car!
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Hey Batdan,
Looks like we got some great suggestions re the connecting rod. Thanks everyone. The motor came with the engine bay wiring and computers. I later purchased the under dash wiring but dont know wether I'll use it or not. I was lucky with the motor but it was not cheap. $6500 for the motor and $1800 for the transmission. To me it was worth it because I want a daily driver. To me this engine means performance, relaibility and no stuffing around to meet pollution requirements. I have not put the engine in the car yet as its much easier to work on without it. However I hope to test fit the engine by Xmas. I'm not sure how easy XR8 motors are to get over here but I'm sure plenty of people crash them and there seem to be quite a few on the road. I saw Alvins car on the weekend (I purchased his wheels). He has just put larger brakes on his DRB. I noticed he also has a sway bar fitted. I'd be very surprised if you did not need a brake warning system. Have fun Cameron Hi Boxhead, If you got your rear end from Mario then yes thats the guy. |
Dan
I am planning to use a VH-VL Commodore master cylinder & the torana proportioning valve.I don`t believe we need to have a brake warning light here in NZ,I am seeing the bloke who will be certifying my car in approx two weeks I will check with him and let you know. No engine fitted as yet. I have just purchased a 1992 5.0 HO Mustang engine with a t5 gearbox for $4000 complete with wiring and computer, my local auto electrician will wire the car for approx $1000. I have got some one else lined up to sort the engine & computer wiring out. peter |
Hey,
%/ There's so much activity on this site it makes me tired just reading it. The GT40's will be finished before Xmas at this rate. **) Out and driving Bernie Bernie Knight Mt. Gambier South Australia. |
Peter
When using the VH-VL Master cylinder it will have the wrong angle in relation to the fire wall. Commodore fire walls are sloping back which makes the cylinder sit level. You may find that your fire wall is verticle which will make the cylinder slope forward. |
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Here's my DRB Windsor 302 EFI.
Note the air intake mounted on the side giving you enough room to carry your eski between the rad and block - perfect on a hot day! |
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And one more hanging off the shed's rsj (good job I didn't drop the camera)
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Thanks everyone, has really been a big help.
Also .... The Torana master cylinder has two reservoirs, one bigger than the other. I assumed the larger rear reservoir was for the front brakes, but I just looked in the Torana manual and it says the front reservoir is for the front brakes. Is this right ? I guess the manual doesn't lie................ Or does it really not matter ? Thanks Dan |
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