AU rear end question

[Tenrocca]

I know this has been asked and answered on this forum before but Ill be stuffed if I can find it. How do you remove the drive shafts from the Au diff? Also. How can I tell if my diff is lsd or not?

[ledge]

Hi Tenrocca

Im not sure with the au diff but normally if you jack up one side so it is off the ground and spin the wheel it should stop spinning after a few revolutions if it keeps on spinning then it isnt an LSD

Paul

[Aussie Mike]

The axles are held in by spring loaded C clips on the ends of the axle splines. It's just a matter of puting a pinch bar or a large screw driver between the diff housing and the axle flange and levering it out. The C clips are rounded and designed to compress so it doesn't take much effort.

To tell whether it's an LSD jack both wheels off the cround and turn one whilst someone holds the other. there should be a lot of resistance between the two sides. An open diff will turn one wheel freely.

Cheers

[pneall]

There should be an aluminium plate retained by the fill plug that talks about the special additive required for the LSD.If its not there you either dont have an LSD or the diff was not modified(new seal and additive) in service. I belive the additive is in all late model diffs and it was only the early series 1 that had the mod done. The series one had the thin discs, 13mm wide I think.

Phil

[Churchy]

Tenrocca,

Pete and I made the mistake of undoing the CV boot (on one side) and then having to repack it (thanks Phil for the boot strap tool) lot's of fun trying to regather the escaping ball bearings.

Exactly as Mike said, just a big screwdriver and lever it out. We put the half shafts back in on the weekend and they go back really easy as well, just a bit of pressure and they snap back in place.

[Tenrocca]

Beautiful. I knew it would be easy. There is a plate on the drain plug that says "high performance, use approved lubricants only". No mention of additives though? The guy I got it off said it was a series 1.

Churchy....you clearly are not referring to the comprehensive build manual which illistrates the drive shafts removed with both boots in place.

Got an eamil off Ian....my cars due to be ready in about 4 weeks. Whoooo hooooo I better make some room in the garage.

[Churchy]

Yay, your build is about to start, yipee. Pete and I are having sooooo much fun already, and we have only been going for 4 weeks. Only lost one thumb top so far

We also did not refer to the comrehensive build manual that says to use soapy water when putting the new front lower control arm bushes in. First one we tried for about 1 hour, then read the book and the next 3 took about 2 seconds each. RTFM is now written all over my face..

[boxhead]

To check if it is LSD or not while it is out of the car it is easiest to turn the pinion flange (where tailshaft bolts too).
And have a friend hold the drive shafts, if it is LSD then both shafts will turn, if it is not then 1 shaft will turn and the other one will be able to be held.

[Tenrocca]

HELP!!. One side popped out easy, 3 skinned knckles later and the other does not want to come. Any suggestions?

[Tenrocca]

. I left it a while to let it think about the pain and suffering it had caused me, and when I came back it was repentant and gave way. All is forgiven. :P.

I dont need to keep the sway bar do I?

[pneall]

Keep the rear sway bar to hit things with. I have a matching front one I bought from Ian that is also only good to hit things with.

When you get to sway bars talk to me . I just got one made by Pedders but do not know how it will perform. Should know after the August practice day at Wakefield.

Great to hear your chassis and body are nearly ready.

From your description of thye tag sounds like you have a LSD. If you dont /havent drained the oil all should be good. I'll check what my tag says ( if its still talking)and let you know.

Its 27 degrees in Townsville today. Iam burnt to a cinder, well at least my face is. I am applying Coopers internally to ease the pain.

Phil