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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 05-25-2007, 01:44 AM
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Default Alignment Trouble With Jag Rear End

Hi Guys,
Ive Got The Rear End Into The Car But The Distances Between Edge Of Tyre And Inside Edge Of Guard Varie By 20mm And Lhs Has Got Severe Camber Problems,the Camber Problems Can Be Rectified By Adding Spacers At Diff Centre But This Would Place The Top Of The Tyre Edge Outside The Edge Of Guard And Increase The Now 20mm Gap To About 35/40mm Seems To Me That The Top Diff Mount Plate Has Been Welded In Incorrectly(hopefully Not) Any Help With This Problem Would Be Greatly Appreciated, Thanks In Advance


Cheers Darrell
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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 05-25-2007, 02:50 AM
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Darrell, Are your lower arms the same length?
Also check your drive shafts are the same length.
Minor differences have a huge effect.

Check the diff is in the center of the car...I'd be surprised if it wasn't.

Then check that your brake rotor is centered in the caliper. If not, adjust with shims between diff and rotor. I think the allowable difference is 5 thou. measured at the lugs on the inside of the caliper.

Camber is adjusted by adding/subtracting shims between the rotor and the drive shaft flange.

Best of luck
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  #3 (permalink)  
Old 05-25-2007, 02:53 AM
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The really tricky adjustment with the Jag rear suspension is toe.
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Old 05-25-2007, 03:20 AM
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Darrell,

I went through the same thing years ago and I think I understand your difficulty. The problem is that there are three different brackets for mounting the lower arms (wishbones). They allow the pinion angle to be higher to match the transmission angle. I believe that they come in 12 degree, 6 degree and zero degree. It sounds like you may have different bracket angles on the left side and the right side. So, the arm is not swinging up perpendicular to the ground. This causes all kinds of geometery issues.

I think the solution is, you need to replace your "fulcrum shaft mounts" with two zero degree parts. See this diagram: http://www.web-cars.com/e-type/irs.html.

You did not mention the manufacturer of your car. My car is an Arntz (later known as a Butler).

The toe angle is usually built into the wishbones at 1/8 inch and should not need to be adjusted (unless you reverse them).

Paul
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Last edited by RallySnake; 05-25-2007 at 03:29 AM..
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  #5 (permalink)  
Old 05-25-2007, 05:38 AM
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Thanks Guys That 'll Take Care Of Something To Do Over The Weekend

Cheers Darrell
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Old 05-26-2007, 01:01 AM
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Default It's simple

Darrell , It's simple
The body's not on straight

Measure from side to side
I bet It's out

Thank me later
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Old 05-26-2007, 03:19 AM
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spot on ace,the body is out by 12mm and the lip on lhs guard is wide than opposite side,with a little bit of sanding and removal of a few shims it should be within 2/3 mm thatll do me

thanks again ace ,no wonder they call you ACE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
cheers darrell

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Old 05-26-2007, 07:32 AM
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Surely not a good advertisment for DRB??

Is the body out by this much or have you positioned the body out of place to this degree?

Some thing seems out of odd here either way!!!!

Cheers
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Old 05-26-2007, 10:58 PM
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no the body was positioned on the car already,the return lip on the rear guards varied also,one side was 16mm the other was 10mm but with the removal and addition of a few shims its only about 2mm out ,remembering that these cars are put together by hand not robots so you have to allow for some sort of human error,end result is ok though,

cheers darrell
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Old 05-31-2007, 12:50 AM
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From my experience with kit cars and others I have learnt not to make a part for one side of the car and then duplicate it for the other side as it usually will not fit due to both sides not being the same dimensions.

This has been learnt the hard way several times with lots of swearing and wasted materials.
Dimi
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  #11 (permalink)  
Old 06-01-2007, 01:39 AM
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good point dimi will keep in mind as the build progress's,guess thats were the
forum cones in handy,,besides chatting to great people as well of course

cheers

darrell
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