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LS1 and L76
For those that are less than purists, this might be interesting.
I was visiting one of the Adelaide Holden dealers today for some parts. One of the guys offered us new LS1s at $5500.00 and new L76s at $6000. Let me know if anybody has any interest and I'll put you in touch. Philip |
Yep Phil, a couple of us have bought L76's of late.
Going price about $6000.00 plus GST. They should come down though as time progresses depending on supplies. Cheers |
Why on earth would you take the LS1 over the L76 - for the sake of about $500?
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I must say I thought that too.
Perhaps one is warmer than the other! |
Yeah, I didn't realise the price difference was so small either.
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There would be a lot more LS1 vehicles out there - and to put an LS1 into a LS1 is obviously a straight swap - not so with a L76. For us its a no brainer - go the L76. But for Trevor from Mt Druit who just threw a conrod out the side of his block dowing burnouts in his VT in the McDonalds carpark - he would most likely replace it with an LS1. Supply and demand. :)
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His mocassin must have got caught on the accelerator :LOL:
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The car was stolen any way:D
Phil |
Quote:
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What's included with the engine for the above prices? i.e. How complete is it, what else is required to make it run.
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Craig, for the L76 the $6600.00 includes the complete engine, intake with injectors and fuel rails, throttlebody,water pump and thermo housing, flexplate, exhaust manifolds, plugs,coils and plug leads, crank sensor and knock sensors and a left hand (only) engine mount ear.
To make it go, you'll need, starter, alternator and brackets, Accelerator pedal (FBW), Mass air meter, IAT sensor, O2 sensors, belt tensioner, belt idler pulley, flywheel, ECM and 2 harnesses and a right hand engine mount ear. All up about $10.5K if bought from the right place. The Corvette LS2 engine only is about $10K and the required bits are same as the L76. Pics of engine can be seen in Schipps gallery. |
Thanks Les, I was hoping you might confirm that for me. :) And for everyone else thinking about buying new.
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Obviously you also need a suitable electronic fuel pump, filter and regulator.
You can use a large external pump and regulator, Surge tank if you wish, or simply use the Holden/HSV fuel tank bucket assembly. That bucket includes an electric pump, regulator etc and requires only one fuel pipe to the engine. ie. No fuel return pipe is needed. |
Les, have you got any prices and/or part numbers on that HSV fuel tank bucket assembly? I like the simplicity of that approach (eg, no return lines). Thanks.
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Nope, don't have a part number mate.
Here is a message from Stewart from WASP in return to my enquiry. GIDAY LES THE MODULE I WOULD SUGGEST IS A FUEL PUMP AND CARRIER WITH AN INBUILT FUEL PRESSURE REG WHICH IS REPLACEABLE IF YOU EVER NEED TO. THEY ARE STANDARD EQUPMENT ON VZ UTES. YOUR COST IS $435.00 INC GST AND FREIGHT. CHEERS STEWART However, I was going to wait and seek the advise of others here as to the best one to use. I too like the simplicity of the standard system but wondered if there was a better one from some other model holden/HSV. Cheers |
Yeah good call mate. I reckon it will be hard to beat $435 for the whole shooting match though. How do you reckon a factory fuel system would perform on a track day, eg, sideways inertia, fuel starvation.
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Sambo. far as I can tell the holden "bucket" is a sorta surge tank ( ie retain fuel around the intake) with the pump, regulator and the fuel return all included.
I'm told a largish hole in the top of the tank and insert it in..seal up, attach the engine feed fuel line and that's it....all done. Reading the LS1.com site seem to imply that it's good for engines with bolt on mods but lacking with opened engines. I don't know what the HSV's have to feed a healthy LS2 but if it is similar then I'm happy. Lots of the others have got this unit feeding a separate tank then with a bigger pump, filter and regulator feeding the engine. I dunno if all that is worth it given that it appears many unopened Holden SS and HSV's are running healthy 1/4's with standard pumps. I'm still investigating but currently feel that maybe the use of this "bucket" together with a larger diameter fuel line than standard to the engine may be sufficient. ie. more fuel under the same pressure. I think the standard fuel line is 3/8 or 8AN. Or.... Get a bucket from a wrecker and install a higher capacity pump. Dunno yet...maybe some of the better informed will comment. |
General feeling I get from tuners about the stock fuel pump setup is that it's good for about 300 KW at the wheels.
I'm running a Bosch 044 Motorsport pump that's supposedly good for 700HP. The only downside is the noise it makes. I'm thinking I'll build a baffled and gated fuel tank and run 2x Walbro 255LPH pumps in there. That'll replace the bosh pump and swirl pot setup and I'll have it all in the tank. Cheers |
Mike's right, around 300kW's at the wheels. Anything up to around 330kW's will be ok for aspirated engines, for forced induction it will be closer to 300 due to the required AFR.
These pump assy's are a good thing, I have a new VY unit to go in the Cobra. I also have a second hand VX unit for a good price if anyone is interested..... |
OK....so they're good for a 330fwkw engine...that's 440hp...thanks fellas.
Plums, so why are you using a pump assy from a VY...is it any better than the unit WASP suggested from a VZ ute?. And what do you think of using a size larger fuel pipe from the tank bucket to the engine fuel rails?. My thought was that it would be less restrictive and would provide a slightly larger volume of fuel at the same pressure. Obviously the engine rails consume what they want but there would be a slightly greater volume before it runs short. Thanks again |
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