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Thermal Insulation
As I plan for the construction of my Harrison rolling chassis, my thoughts have turned to thermal insulation, even though the weather is always perfect here in Queensland! What advice do you guys have about products and purchase sources that are useful, either under the carpet or under the panels of the transmission tunnel and firewall to reflect and/or insulate against heat ingress?
Many thanks, Merv |
Insulation is a must in my book, especially in QLD.
Check this thread. http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/show...ght=insulation Also think about ducting some fresh air into the footwells from brake duct vents etc. This is probably the best thing you can do with a Cobra when driving in the QLD summer. Heat eventually soaks through, no matter how much insulation you use. Well actually it's the 2nd best thing, air con is the best thing. |
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As well as aluminium on the engine side of the tunnel you might also consider felt carpet underlay. My felt underlay has a layer of bitumen in the middle to help reduce heat and noise. ALso consider coating your extractors and exhaust via HPC. IF you want super comfort you could always install air conditioning, that's what I have done. |
Lots of good ideas! What is HPC? I am getting ceramic coating on the exhaust system. Is that HPC? Also re A/C how does that work with a roadster body? Or is that only effective with the top up?
Merv |
I have 1 aircon duct comming out the dash. The others come out through the trans tunnel.
The dryer/blower unit is in the passenger foot well. Passengers legs go under the unit. You can get compact units from Vintage Air. www.vintageair.com HPC is a coating yes. HPC seem to be well regarded. www.hpcoatings.com.au I have a rear exiting exhaust. I had the whole system done including the mufflers. |
Thanks Cameron. Did anyone ever find out how to get the US LizardSkin product? It looks factastic.
Merv |
Talk to Mando from this forum.... he has used it (Lizardskin), and his car is bloody FANTASTIC....(sorry Mando, but your car is an inspiration to many of us)
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I've put the lizard skin on and am in the process of finishing it with a smooth "body panel" type finish. That works out a bit more expensive as you have to use special polyester spot putty and compatible spray putty. The result so far is excellent. One day I'll work out how to put pics on the forum.
I bought the lizard skin through Summit Racing USA. It was posted / shipped with no problems as it is a water based product and isn't flammable. Go to the lizard skin website and ask for detailed instructions on application they are a big help. I used HPC coating on my cousins Mustang headers and the temperature in the engine bay was reduced by about 15 dec C. |
Thanks Rob. I have written to the US company for shipping costs. Sounds a good product but as yet there are no independent tests and it seems a lot like some of the roofing ceramics used here (Ceramocote). My son is a chemical engineer and is checking the chemistry and thermal rating.
Many thanks, Merv |
Take a look at Second Skin. I used their noise dampener and heat barrior - seem to be top notch products. Loads of install pictures and ideas on my website.
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Many thanks Kevin and congratulations on that great site. Can those two products be obtained in Australia?
Merv |
I don't think so... Would not be surprised if he went out of his way to ship product to you - drop him an email or call the number on his website - seems fairly easy to get in touch with.
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so this Lizard Skin acrylic is OK to put straight on to glass fibre ??
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I'm using Rhino liner on my transmission well and interior floor to sound proof as well it will make the trans well like a scatter shield, I am also using it on the inner wheel wells to keep from checking the fiberglass when rocks are thrown up.
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Guys, thought I might be able to help clear up some questions about Lizard Skin, as a US user with some experience. I applied it ALL over the underside of my body shell, wheel arches, and inside the engine compartment and the driver's cab as well.
1. COMPLETELY safe to put directly onto fiberglass. 2. Covers well, and actually has a pleasing, mottled surface with a slight rubbery texture. 3. I sprayed the inside of the engine compartment completely with my final color paint and there is NO problem about it adhering to the Lizard Skin. 4. You can actually get two types of Lizard Skin, one for heat and one for noise. I called the supplier about this, and was told that the 'heat' one works perfectly well for 'noise' insulation as well, so you only need the one type. Hope this helps a little Regards Glyn PS spent last week in Melbourne on business..dear god, you folks have AMAZING seafood!!!!!!! |
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Water based not acrylic. |
What do you expect Glyn, we're a wee atoll completely surrounded by water with the sea creatures just throwing themselves at us for fun!!!
More importantly, what's the cost of the heat variant skin and what level of thermal insulation can it achieve? Or is this level based on depth (thickness) of skin application? I also understand one needs a fairly specialized gun to apply this muck. Tell us more please. Cheers |
Dear Merv, What are you building a COBRA or a LIMOUSINE? a layer of fiberglass insulation between the tunnel and carpet will do the trick. Remenber your are building a replica race car. I believe V8 supercars operate internal running temperatures in excess 40 degrees with the roof on: I also believe we breed them tougher up here in QLD
MTV |
Geez MTV I have an aversion to heat! Born and bred in Qld and love the winters. Want the trad look with some comfort. That Rhino liner (spray on) sounds a good product for the wheel arches though for chip reduction. It has been suggested that I line the underside of the transmission tunnel with a ceramic and silver-based product and put a fibreglass or other acoustic layer on the topside under the carpet.
Merv |
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