T56 shift conversion

HISSIN · #1 (**permalink**) 03-23-2008, 01:49 PM

need to move shift forward is it possible to fit hurst shift myself at home, or would i need to send it to a transmission specialist .Spoke to a guy in queensland mal wood sounds like a lot of drama his quote $1500 $2000 would that be right thanking you in advance HISSIN

sambo · #2 (**permalink**) 03-23-2008, 02:15 PM

Mal Wood definitely knows his stuff. When I spoke to him about the shifter relocation he suggested the remote bleed valve and various other 'upgrades' to strengthen the box. I think that's why his quote is so high - the shifter relocation by itself couldn't be that much, considering a brand new T56 is under $2000 from Holden.

Mike Murphy and others on this forum will be able to tell you exactly what's involved in doing it yourself. Also I've got a couple of T56 service manuals in PDF format if you're interested.

Cheers,
Paul

Tenrocca · #3 (**permalink**) 03-23-2008, 02:34 PM

I did the Aussie Mike conversion without any other internal mods for around $400, including the new B and M shifter. Mal Woods conversion is different to the Aussie Mike one - I THINK he re-uses the stock shifter - and you also need to buy a shifter handle.

Cheers

Churchy · #4 (**permalink**) 03-24-2008, 04:16 PM

HISSIN I had the mod done by Mal Wood and he does use the existing shifter.

I also had the box rebuilt and got a clutch and remote bleed valve from him. He did good work and no surprises. I have used a gear stick from a BF Falcon(probably the only Ford bit on the car). So all good.

I know a couple of guys have done the mode themselves I guess my "boys" just are not big enough to do it myself

vettestr · #5 (**permalink**) 03-24-2008, 06:59 PM

I have moved the shifter from the front position to the rear position on a T56. It was Very Simple and would put the actual shifter change at a o.5 difficulty rating if it was a 0 to 5 scale. I removed 4 bolts from cover and 4 from shifter plate and moved plate and bolts. If the body or other things need changed then I can not comment as mine had plenty of room for either position, I did have to cut a new hole and put the piece in the old location but again very easy. The rail shifter has a block to accept shifter ball in each place. I used an old Hust lever and redrilled holes to match after cutting to a shorter length. Jeff C

Tenrocca · #6 (**permalink**) 03-24-2008, 07:22 PM

Jeff - sounds like a different style box you did your work on. Couple of pics of the local T56:

under rear cover\orginal shifter:

Under forward cover:

The AM mod involves cutting the 2 bits that attach the the shifter rod in half and joining together so the shifter socket (previously at the rear) mates with the shifter gate thingy at the front. Heres the shifter installed:

vettestr · #7 (**permalink**) 03-24-2008, 08:07 PM

Tenrocca,
I am wrong! Thanks for the photo that helped my brain fart a little bit. The GM Aftermarket T56 or model 011 did just allow reversing the shifter for a few inches but in same mount. Now I need to remember what we moved the shifter front to rear on.
Thanks again for the reminder and photos. Jeff C

Kevin · #8 (**permalink**) 03-24-2008, 08:20 PM

I am doing the same modification right now. I purchased the shifter from Keisler Engineering and installing it myself. They sell the shifter and extra parts needed, with instructions on how to cut the shifter rod and looks fairly easy. I have taken the trans completely apart(because it was used) and is getting complete rebuild. It doesn't look too difficult. I had a make a gear puller to take off one gear. And need a press to put it back together but it came with the manual for that also.

I will be back together in a couple of days when I get time to do it.

Kevin

Kevin · #9 (**permalink**) 08-15-2008, 11:28 AM

This project was not too difficult. It was a little scary making sure it was put together correctly. It looks correct though. I tumbled the trans case to make it look like new again. not bad for a 1994 case. It gives it a almost ceramic look now. I still have to finish the bell housing, but it looks good. I have to get some more pics of the motor it s finally finished and running. Awesome is the only thing I can say.

Kevin

stumpeater · #10 (**permalink**) 10-29-2008, 06:20 PM

Test fitted my T56 and motor, it wont fit if I leave the reverse de-tent gadget on the side. Does any one know if Aussie Mikes or Mal Woods conversion moves it to the front? There is a casting imprint that looks like it could be machined to fit. Also is the gate gadget and de-tent setup left in place (under the front cover) or is it like this photo I found on this site, with nothing under the socket, where the gate is originally?

Aussie Mike · #11 (**permalink**) 10-29-2008, 08:15 PM

My conversion moves the reverse lock out up next to the shifter.

I use the position where the CAGS solenoid goes. Quite often this boss isn't machined so I have to put the gearbox casing in the mill and machine it out and tap it.

Here's a pic of one showing the reverse lockout solenoid below the shifter.

I do the complete the conversion with a billet shifter and a custom alloy gear knob (a few designs available). The box also gets billet steel keys in 3-4 and 5-6 synchronisers and a steel shift fork from the viper box for 3-4 selector. The conversion is $1100 all up.

These mods seem to keep them alive behind big HP motors. This box is in Garretts blown LS1 powered Superformance making 550 RWHP and it's still going strong.

Cheers

Tenrocca · #12 (**permalink**) 10-29-2008, 08:20 PM

On the AM style conversion the reverse lockout is moved to the forward position - I machined up a plug to fill the old hole in the back as I too had clearance issues when I put the skip shift solenoid in there (just to fill the hole).

I welded a bit on the socket part that catchs the reverse lockout pin when its extended - Wish I had pics - would make a lot more sence.

EDIT - The master beat me to it.....

stumpeater · #13 (**permalink**) 10-30-2008, 03:56 PM

Thanks for that Guys, Mike, do you leave the gate arrangement in operation? ( under the new shifter) I don't see how the one in the photo I posted could incorporate it! Also where abouts in Melbourne are you if I "Chicken Out" on having a go myself?
What's a"CAGS Solenoid"? There is nothing on my Box in that position just the casting imprint.

Aussie Mike · #14 (**permalink**) 11-02-2008, 05:29 PM

I'm in Sydenham out near Calder Park Raceway.

I leave the gate assembly under the shifter. It's esential as it has all the detents to keep the box in gear. The reverse lockout solenoid sneaks in beside it.

CAGS is "Computer Aided Gear Selection" In the early days boxes had a feature where the ECU could pop a solenoid into the gate that I believe would help you on the 4-5 or 5-4 shift. It locked in an extra gate that wouldn't let you push across too far and grab 2nd by mistake on the down shift. It was only used for a couple of years on the Corvette and I think most people tried to disable it because it was anoying. It wouldn't let you snap it into 3rd from 5th.

I get arround the problem of getting lost in the 6 gears with carefull shimming of the springs in the shifter. I use a bit more pressure than normal and set it so the shifter sits naturally above the 3-4 gate. This makes it very easy to navigate through the gears and the 2-3 shift just pops across as you push the shifter forward.

The boss for the CAGS solenoid is still there in the casting but usually un machined. I strip the box completely and machine the boss into the casing in the mill . Early boxes are easier as there is usually a threaded bung in the CAGS hole and you can just unscrew it.

Cheers

sambo · #15 (**permalink**) 11-02-2008, 06:09 PM

Mike, so I take it the CAGS solenoid is optional and the machining is not necessary in your conversion? Do we need to consider this when getting the ECU flashed, eg, as per removing VATS?

Tenrocca · #16 (**permalink**) 11-02-2008, 06:19 PM

CAG's was never switched on on Australian cars - only corvettes I think.

Cheers

Aussie Mike · #17 (**permalink**) 11-02-2008, 07:37 PM

Hi Paul,

The machining is nescecary in my conversion if the boss for the CAGS solenoid hasn't been machined at the factory. So far it's been about a 50/50 mix in the boxes I've done. I use the CAGS solenoid position for the reverse lockout solenoid.

As Andrew said CAGS was never implemented in Australian cars.

Cheers

sambo · #18 (**permalink**) 11-02-2008, 07:43 PM

Righto that makes sense... reverse lockout in place of CAGS. Machining out that solenoid seems like a bit more work so I'll be sure to ask about it if/when I pickup one of those s/hand units from Ballarat Holden. Thanks for the info.

stumpeater · #19 (**permalink**) 11-03-2008, 12:58 AM

Thanks for the info! You learn something new everyday (hopefully). I think I will get you to do the conversion Mike, when would it suit you for me to drop it off? I am in Boronia, (The other side of the planet) I will PM you with my phone number, may be the best idea. Thanks, Peter.

Aussie Mike · #20 (**permalink**) 11-05-2008, 11:33 AM

Hi Peter,

I'm out of the country at the moment working up in Denmark. I'll be back in a couple of weeks and we can talk then.

Cheers