Wheel clearance

07cob · #1 (**permalink**) 10-31-2009, 03:42 AM

Greg

The R32 camber arm has a 'ring' for the shock to pass through (ala the links Sambo supplied in your other post), while the R33 has a camber arm that runs around the front (or back - I'm not sure) of the shock. Given Merv's experience and yours, I guess the 32 and 33 rears are different widths.

Geof

byroncobra · #2 (**permalink**) 10-31-2009, 04:01 AM

Oooohhhhh no Geof, there goes my theory. The shocky and spring pass through the ring.
Are you sure there's not a couple of arm configurations for a R33?

WKB · #3 (**permalink**) 10-31-2009, 05:11 AM

Greg,
What chassis number have you got? Should be able to work out if it R32 or R33 from when it was made.

Warren

Rog246 · #4 (**permalink**) 10-31-2009, 05:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 07cob

Greg

The R32 camber arm has a 'ring' for the shock to pass through (ala the links Sambo supplied in your other post), while the R33 has a camber arm that runs around the front (or back - I'm not sure) of the shock. Given Merv's experience and yours, I guess the 32 and 33 rears are different widths.

Geof

Hi guys, I'm putting a R33 rear end in my Harrison & Warwick tells me that there is 10mm difference between an R32 & R33, with the '33 being the wider of the 2. Therefore I'm going to need adjustable camber arms to make it work. That was never going to be an issue for me as I have already bought all adjustable arms to I can adjust Camber,toe & caster as well.
Hope it helps

Rog246

byroncobra · #5 (**permalink**) 10-31-2009, 03:57 PM

Warren
It's #38, about 2004 vintage, having sat in a workshop for a few years before i bought it in 2008.
Rog
Yeah, i recon a bit more than 10mm, if indeed mine is an R33. Anyway, I think I'll grab a set of adjustable arms as you have done. Hopefully I'll be able to squeeze the Dragways inside the guard with these. Be careful with offset measurements if you havent bought your wheels yet. With R32, Warwicks' 130mm recommendation is about right but if R33 you need to decrease this to around 110mm. Also remember that if using Dragways Hallibrand lookalikes that you may have issues with the 'spokes' hitting the brake caliper.
Greg

Rog246 · #6 (**permalink**) 10-31-2009, 04:42 PM

Greg, I'll go find some i/v's for what I bought. I'm very happy with the quality of what I bought, its all well made & well finished, so I'll let you know
Rog

byroncobra · #7 (**permalink**) 10-31-2009, 04:55 PM

Rog
Sorry, i/v's?
Where and what sort of $ for your camber adjusters?

Rog246 · #8 (**permalink**) 11-01-2009, 12:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by byroncobra

Rog
Sorry, i/v's?
Where and what sort of $ for your camber adjusters?

Greg I bought toe rod arms @ $135, Traction arms @ $135 from japonauto ( holford30@hotmail.com) via Ebay & rear upper camber arms @ $125 from 999 Automotive, also Ebay.
They have stuff up there all the time AND they're in BrisVegas to boot
hope this helps you
Rog

WKB · #9 (**permalink**) 11-02-2009, 02:52 AM

Greg,
Another option is to use a camber adjustment kit from Fulcrum Suspension. They replace the bushes in the top comtrol arm. They are used for a coarse adjustment and use the existing camber adjustment for the fine adjustment. The part no. is SPF1869K. I used them in mine. I have an 1 deg neg camber on the rear(there is more adjustment left if required). I paid $260 for the kit for both sides, but that was a few years ago.

Warren