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CC Advertisers
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06-19-2008, 11:03 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Sunbury,
VIC
Cobra Make, Engine: Rat Rod Racer, LS1 & T56
Posts: 5,391
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by boxhead
Wow Mike, your computer skills are much better than mine, no matter how much I search, I cant find the same page as you, Do you have a link?
Does your PC look like mine?
Here is a pic to compare.

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I wish my PC in the office worked like that right now.
Thank God it's Friday.
Cheers
__________________
Mike Murphy
Melbourne Australia
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Advertising

06-20-2008, 12:10 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Melbourne, Australia,
Vic
Cobra Make, Engine: G-Force Mk I, 5L Windsor, TKO 600, enhanced Jag / Koni suspension & LSD Diff.
Posts: 2,303
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Not Ranked
Or it could be that Mr Mike's pudgy large fingers hit the U beside the I on the computer keyboard either before or after self service on his new styled computer!
__________________
slowy
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06-20-2008, 07:04 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Darwin,
NT
Cobra Make, Engine: King Cobra, QLD - 347 windsor
Posts: 308
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Not Ranked
Por15
I've painted a lot of suspension component and other bits and pieces with por 15.
As stated by some of the others, the finish is excellent and tough. Looks like a good spray finish and tough enough to hit with a hammer.
Just follow the instructions properly.......find the cheapest brushes you can and chuck them after use.
Regards
Hogster
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06-20-2008, 09:34 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Perth,
WA
Cobra Make, Engine:
Posts: 43
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by hogster
I've painted a lot of suspension component and other bits and pieces with por 15.
As stated by some of the others, the finish is excellent and tough. Looks like a good spray finish and tough enough to hit with a hammer.
Just follow the instructions properly.......find the cheapest brushes you can and chuck them after use.
Regards
Hogster
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I have done the same. Very easy to apply excellent finish and no brush marks. From memory it is impossible to remove from your skin so use rubber gloves. The best way to do it is to buy one of their starter kits which has everything you need and if you don't like it it hasn't cost you a fortune
Cheers
Perry
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06-20-2008, 05:42 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Melbourne, Australia,
Vic
Cobra Make, Engine: G-Force Mk I, 5L Windsor, TKO 600, enhanced Jag / Koni suspension & LSD Diff.
Posts: 2,303
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Not Ranked
Guys
I'm thinking about revisiting my whole chassis after sandblasting with brushed on Por15 to keep it simple for myself. I no spray painter but happy to give this option a go too, anyone sprayed this stuff on too?
I'd used it on level and vertical surfaces but am worried about runs if I am rotating the chassis on a spit to get to all the metal. What's the risk of getting runs, anyone know?
I'm thinking of two coats where there is exposure to the elements and in the engine bay but one coat where hidden and protected by fibreblass of other materials later on.
Would anyone have any inkling of the amount of paint I'd need for a chassis?
Cheers
__________________
slowy
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06-20-2008, 05:58 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Queen Creek,
AZ
Cobra Make, Engine: Midstates, Vette suspension, Baer 6P brakes, 540 cid Chevy, Haltech Fuel Injection
Posts: 906
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Not Ranked
The problem you had with the spray can paint is not uncommon these days, even for regular-old rustoleum. I had the same thing happen when painting an oil pan. Had to scrape, sand, and start all over...
If you look at the directions, it will probably tell you to add second coats some minutes after the first coat. It will also likely tell you that if it has dried, then you need to wait maybe two weeks before repainting. That is what I found after reading the directions during my debacle.
__________________
E. Wood
ItBites
10.69 @ 129.83mph - on pump gas and street tires
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06-20-2008, 07:16 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Sydney Australia,
NSW
Cobra Make, Engine: RMC with 6 litre 307KW LS2, Comp Cam, 348rwhp & 532.5 ftlb of torque with 6L80E Tiptronic Transmission
Posts: 1,400
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by stephen low
Guys
I'm thinking about revisiting my whole chassis after sandblasting with brushed on Por15 to keep it simple for myself. I no spray painter but happy to give this option a go too, anyone sprayed this stuff on too?
I'd used it on level and vertical surfaces but am worried about runs if I am rotating the chassis on a spit to get to all the metal. What's the risk of getting runs, anyone know?
I'm thinking of two coats where there is exposure to the elements and in the engine bay but one coat where hidden and protected by fibreblass of other materials later on.
Would anyone have any inkling of the amount of paint I'd need for a chassis?
Cheers
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Stephen,
I've used Por15 on all my suspension parts and diff. If your going to paint your entire chassis with it, be prepared to take out another home loan. I only purchased a small tin, (I think it's about 500 mil) and that cost me $72.
On the positive side though, after painting all my suspension parts and diff, I still have about 1/2 a tin left.
Baz.
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06-20-2008, 11:09 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Perth,
WA
Cobra Make, Engine:
Posts: 43
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by Baz
Stephen,
I've used Por15 on all my suspension parts and diff. If your going to paint your entire chassis with it, be prepared to take out another home loan. I only purchased a small tin, (I think it's about 500 mil) and that cost me $72.
On the positive side though, after painting all my suspension parts and diff, I still have about 1/2 a tin left.
Baz.
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I used 2 of their starter kits to do all my suspension parts and diff. Each kit has 100ml of paint so a small amount goes a long way.
Perry
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06-21-2008, 06:22 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Nov 2003
Cobra Make, Engine: RCM, 4 wheels, two doors
Posts: 704
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Not Ranked
I used POR15 on the chassis. Used only one 500ml can. It spreads very easily and no brush marks. Make sure you use gloves.
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