Hoods and Tonneau covers - Page 4

Merv and Sharon · #61 (**permalink**) 10-08-2009, 01:31 AM

Sounds great Baz. I was going to use the MB Haartz product but was convinced that what I got was more effective. Not sure, as I have had the former and it was fine. Your sounds brilliant!

Merv

byroncobra · #62 (**permalink**) 02-10-2012, 06:27 PM

I've just been to the trimmer to price up and discuss my soft top.

I've fitted up a hardware kit from a fella who'd got it from Snakebite and didn't end up using it.

Trying to minimise the number of studs on the body. I noticed that yours, Merv, has none along the back.

How did you achieve this?

Peter TUF used a moulding to get a nice neat body fit as he described in previous posts.

Does anyone know if there's one around to fit a Harrison (assuming a DRB won't be the same)

Cheers

Merv and Sharon · #63 (**permalink**) 02-10-2012, 08:22 PM

Greg I found that with the liftadot fasteners fitted in the right places along the side, and a thin flat, stainless bar though the back of the hood, it fits perfectly with no leaks or flaps. It fits into the tear drop fitings from the MGB. The underside has felt type material sewn on. Steve here has the moulds for the fiberglass frame on the Harrison if you need you really need those. Let me know if you need some other pics.

Merv

byroncobra · #64 (**permalink**) 02-10-2012, 10:20 PM

Ahh good idea. I haven't seen that on other cars only all the liftadot posts.

Some xtra photos would be good to show the trimmer thanks. He did Red Garetts car some time back but can't recall all the details. I'll PM you my email address again.

He mentioned stitching in a gutter of sorts to stop the rain dripping in the window opening. Did you have windows made? Warwick mentioned a fixing a post on the front and rear top of the doors and someone else putting a few press type studs on the inside lip of the door top. Seems to me that having the material fixed to the inside of the door would mean water runs inside??

Thanks

Merv and Sharon · #65 (**permalink**) 02-10-2012, 10:58 PM

Will do Greg. I have the stitched on window gutter around each side. If you can look at an MG/Sprite hood at the rear you can see the arrangement for the small flat bar. MG heritage have the tear drops cheaply. Will do some pics tomorrow and send them. I also have a design for perspex windows with a frame that can be made to fit any Cobra.

I didn't do windows, as we are making a couple of hardtops at the moment for Harrisons. They should only cost about $200 in when formed, but not trimmed.

BMK · #66 (**permalink**) 02-11-2012, 01:52 AM

Looks great

Merv and Sharon · #67 (**permalink**) 02-11-2012, 03:55 AM

Hoods are tricky things. The rear angle and the 'bump' (or not) in the middle are things where views vary. I think I have the same bow set up that you have (except mine are 100mm longer on the sides). Play around, as Geof did, with an old sheet to see what you get with the bows up. You have probably done all this anyway. Will send you some pics of the rear stitching tomorrow.

Greg - this shows the liftadots and the tear drops.

Rain channel

byroncobra · #68 (**permalink**) 02-11-2012, 01:19 PM

Thanks Merv, I'll look forward to the pics.

My stop light poses a problem as it's placed right where I'd like the roof to go, didn't think of softtops back when i was drilling those holes....bugger!

Just another Cobra challenge

Merv and Sharon · #69 (**permalink**) 02-11-2012, 03:55 PM

Email sent with several pics, including some zip and velcro windows. This is the RHS fitting for the post on the frame. I put a rubber piece around it as there are times when it could slip out when you are putting up the hood and scratch the surrounding paint. Also shown are a few of the liftadots needed (the press studs are for the tonneau which gets a lot of use).

BMK · #70 (**permalink**) 02-13-2012, 01:30 AM

merv

The roof looks great and the lines and side profiles are both great - really suit the car.

Merv and Sharon · #71 (**permalink**) 02-13-2012, 01:40 AM

I should use it more Bernie, especially now in the hot weather. I looked at dozens of shapes and setups before I settled on that one. It is important to find a trimmer that has experience with soft tops. Is that GT40 gone yet?

TUF-427 · #72 (**permalink**) 02-13-2012, 11:41 PM

Hi Greg,

Pretty sure Scott at Venom has the rear mould the right shape for a harrison.....

then Attached to body with Tennax fasteners and the two Mg teardrops, and a steel or alloy bar to reinforce as Merv has Suggested..

You will Also have to consider if you want to use the 1 or 2 piece windscreen header,both with pros and cons...

Peter..

Baz · #73 (**permalink**) 02-16-2012, 02:04 AM

Back a couple of pages in this thread, I said I would post some pics of my roof and tonneau. Well here they are:-

Baz

Rob. Smith · #74 (**permalink**) 02-17-2012, 02:28 AM

G'Day Baz,
That roof is spot on..the original ones seem to go up at the back then drop away over the roll bar....who's your trimmer. I live close enough.

Baz · #75 (**permalink**) 02-18-2012, 02:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rob. Smith

G'Day Baz,
That roof is spot on..the original ones seem to go up at the back then drop away over the roll bar....who's your trimmer. I live close enough.

Hi Rob,

Unfortunately, my trimmer, Mick Talbot has moved to Brewarrina in western NSW. His partner is a Paramedic and was posted there for 2 years so he went with her about 6 months ago. He also did my consul. A fabulous trimmer. For what its worth, his mobile No is 0432405562.

Baz

BMK · #76 (**permalink**) 02-18-2012, 07:45 PM

Merv

Still have the GT40.

Was driving around in it the other day. Keep talking myself out of selling it.

A little interest in it...