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One Hoop or Two?
Hi Everyone,
I am looking to install a Roll Hoop and am thinking of going for the Hoop (2 leg) variety rather than 3 leg with rear stay. Dont want rear stay in boot reducing boot space. I am thinking of just a drivers side hoop. Does anyone have any pictures of a driver side only installation. I am unsure as to whether to install a passenger one as well. The new CR2008 chassis has two mounts for the Hoop so is a "simple" install. Havent painted yet so want to get all holes/mistakes done prior to painting. Also, not looking to race other than the odd track day - assuming this type of set up is ok? Thanks Rgds Gregg |
Hey Gregg, I like a single hoop and I think the third leg looks better as well - not sure about the boot configuration int he new chassis, but on the old one the third leg comes down on the top section, and doesnt encroach on the largest flat area - its also quite off to one side. I have a shot in my gallery of this.
I think there is some sort of safety requirement at the nationals if you go under a certain lap time about having a roll bar of a certain height and affixed in 3 places. Someone can confirm Im sure. :) Cheers. |
Hi Gregg, I tend to agree with Tenrocca that the single hoops looks best. As he said it really doesnt take up that much room. If your concerned about the space it takes up, Ive seen a car that had the 3rd leg but it only went through the body for about 30mm. From the top it looked normal with its dress ring.
My hoop came from Snakebite in Queensland. The 3rd leg comes through the body with half landing on the floor of the boot and the other half landing on the raised section at the back of the Classic Revival boot. I bent the tube about 200mm from the floor and welded a flat plate which bolts to the floor http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...26MVC-006S.JPG Regards. |
Hi
I have a single drivers side hoop (with 3 legs), I think one looks good, but two hoops may be safer? either way you will look good! :) |
Ive been told that the three leg roll over hoop is the strongest because the third leg acts as a support to keep the hoop from colapsing from the weight of the car if it is upside down(hope that never happens) but if you plan on track time at all make sure you weld all three legs to the frame or you may not live to tell anybody how you installed a three legged roll over hoop.........SAFETY FIRST........then fun
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Gregg
I arranged the bending of my to be twin single hoops and in previous posts have shown Marty's means to attach the inside leg to the new tower arrangement he fitted. I also planned on third legs and these have been angled out towards the outside chassis rail. All is bolted in place at present without the body on but I don't believe the third legs will interfere too much with the boot space. Even though I plan to play on the track I see the third leg as ultimate and cheap insurance for the head, in that unthinkable event of a roll over. The twin is because the wife is paranoid about safety such as this and it was just as easy to fit two as one while I was at it. Cheers |
I went for the minimalist look with two single leg hoops in black and they could be easily removed from the Harrison and the holes covered with neat fitting plastic inserts for the 'no hoop' look when desired!
Merv |
I had Warwick fit two functional hoops with stays. Been upside down a couple of times with full roll cages and it's no fun. Ideally the windscreen supports should be engineered to support the car as well, providing maximum protection.
As they say, motorsport is dangerous. It's all about minimising the risks. Cheers |
My wife said two or drive solo....uhhhh, yessum missy...
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Hoops
Gregg
I went for the double only because I like the look. My hoops are really cosmetic since the third leg actually finishes on the top of the body with no intrusion in the boot. I finished the rear leg by fitting it to the shape of the glass. I had a plate welded in the bottom and threaded. A bolt with washer keeps the rear leg from hanging in the breeze. Just incase you want to consider the rear leg (without boot intrusion). Cheers Geof |
No one is voting for a single hoop across both seats, any particular reason for this, or is it just an aesthetic thing?? Peter ( no hoop yet just considering my options)
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Quote:
Can also be fitted with two rear stays if wanted. Can also carry the top mounted stop light. Can also hang ya washing on it. Can also do wot Stiffy's blow up lady is doin on it in the Alpine cruise thread. :rolleyes::eek::LOL: |
I went with one hoop for asthetic reasons (Love that classic look). That being said I wanted it to be a functional hoop that will provide some protection.
Here it is under construction. The 3rd leg runs through to a chassis member under the boot floor. http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...roll_bar_2.jpg Unfortunately when I bult it I didn't have the body on. It's probably about 2" too short in my opinion. I'm building a new one that'll be taller. This is something to seriously consider when building your roll hoop. If your helmet is the same height or higher than the hoop it doesn't much matter how sturdy it is. In theory it should be at least a couple of inches higher than your helmet. Mine is about the same height as the top of my head. http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...0/Winton_1.JPG Cheers |
Mike, there was once a theory that a line taken from the top of the front guards to the top of the roll bars should be a minimum of 50mm above your helmet.
ie. If you do roll the car it will hopefully skid/rest on those points and also allows for body drop in harnesses whilst inverted. :eek: |
Hi Greg
I am a fan of just one hoop on the drivers side. Mine is a three leg but the rear leg that normally goes through the boot i have cut of so it sits neatly on an ally pad so to the untrained eye it looks like it goes through, I have not got a recent pic so i uploaded this one http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...0/DSCN1240.jpg Regards Paul |
I like the twin hoops without struts but as a structural engineer I can tell you they are nowhere near as strong as the strutted ones (providing the strut is not just fixed to the body shell)
I reckon that if my car turns my strutless ones will work but if it turns over and drags them through say soft ground they will likely fail. But I'm not racing mine so I'll take my chances..... |
Thanks everyone for the suggestions and pictures.
Personally I like the look of the rear stay. Below is a picture of where the rear stay mounts to the chassis through the boot etc. The three dots are the mount holes for the rear stay bracket. There is a metal bracket welded to the chassis underneath. Ian from CR tells me the Rear stay has to be welded to the hoop insitu as the heights/angles are different as people have different hoop heights. I would have liked to have got the hoop etc and installed without cutting/welding. Tricky decision to make, i.e. Safety, Looks, Ease of installation. I am heading up to Shelby Fest as a spectator in a couple of weeks, I think I'll decide then that if in future I want to race, I'll do the safe thing and put in a proper 3 leg hoop, if not I think I might go the cosmetic 3rd leg. http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...les_CR2008.jpg |
Have a look at the cams regulations. They will help in determining what you want / need.
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My twin bars third members mount on the sides of the frame as shown, they leave a pretty good width in the trunk clear. I was originally told they were functional but not far along enough to find out....and I don't know if any Hurricanes have turned turtle yet or not...hope not, tough way to test.
http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...humbs/bar6.JPG |
Here's two with three legs.
Judge for yourself. http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...um/s-Cobra.jpg :D :D |
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