Spring Rates

[Wbulk]

Lou, I am wondering if we have the same master cylinder. I don't remember others complaining of stopping problems, or was it one of those "just the way it is things" that was accepted.

Wayne

[RET_COP]

Wayne,
It is the Wilwood aluminum tandem MC# 260-9439 7/8 bore. I hope the new calipers will give me less pedal travel. In theory it is suppose to. I could just get use to this low pedal but if there is an option to get it right I'll go for it. If anything I have nice new RED brake calipers from Wilwood!!!
Lou

[Wbulk]

Since you are working on your alignment this is an excellent article, Tire Tech Information - Alignment.

[RET_COP]

Wayne
Thanks for the information, it was very informative.
Lou

[RET_COP]

Larry, I finished my brakes and here are my results..and story. I put the D-154 calipers on with the 7/8 MC. The pedal had about 5" of travel and the car stopped good. I did not like the long pedal travel for my comfort level ( as there was not much left of pedal to floor) and too long of a time period to get the car to brake. I replaced the old brake pads with the ones that came with the calipers. Med aggressive and low dust. I took the car out to the Stop & Shop proving grounds and the pedal was going to the floor. The car would stop but wow!. I found out that if I moved the brake pedal once before actually braking the next push was good and the car came to a screeching halt. I knew this was not right and bled the brakes again, but the same happened. I called Wilwood and explained the situation to them and that I wanted to try the 1" MC, so I ordered one. They said that I would see a shorter brake pedal with a little less PSI, which was alright with me. In the mean time I combed over my calipers and discovered that I had a gap on one side of the brake pads on both left and right front. hmmm..... I looked at my old pads and noticed that they were worn in a wedge shape. The bad brake pedal I was having was due to the gap that had to be taken up before the pads squared up with the rotor, which was about .050", yea!! can you believe this. I found that I could square up my caliper flange with the rotor by filing on a spacer which is between the bolt and the spindle. Once I got this matched the pedal came back to the 5" real solid. I ended up putting in the 1" MC and found that this moved my pedal travel to 3.5" which was perfect for me. As for losing PSI, it was not that much. MY brakes are done!!! whew

[FUNFER2]

Lou, think about scaling the car on all four corners, it's well worth it !
I thought my setup was real close, boy,..... was I wrong.

I started off just wanting to replace the coil overs and lower the rear ride height, then included getting new heim joint's on the rear, so I borrowed a friends electronic weigh scales. Man, each corner was way different. I made a threaded rod strut tool with heims that mounts to the shock mounts to get the height I wanted, then measured what length of springs I needed. Worked great. Even with a BB, the percentage now is 4851%.

[RET_COP]

Nice work Kevin and thanks for the information. I have a few circle track friends who can help me out in this area.
Lou