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Clutch Cable
Help, there is a fellow B&B owner at Spring Fling with a melted clutch cable. Anyone have anyone have an idea of the NAPA clutch cable part number? Slow Dawg, you out there?
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This is the part number from mine for a t-5. Pioneer Inc ca-318 Not sure if the cable came from NAPA. Hope that helps. Wish I was there!!!
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Hi Tom and Jim. I think the # is M-7553-C302 cable. Ford Racing. 82-99 Mustang cable. Just have them cross reference. About 3 or 4 months ago I had a "head" crash (never heard of that, my computer repair guy said it was) and lost everything. Even my back-ups shot craps on me. So I'm back to using my catalogs and notes for #'s and cross referencing. Gawd, I felt lost without my computer for three weeks. Even worse when it came back with a new hard drive and nothing was on it. One of the guys said he was trying to transfer some of the files to the new hard drive, but didn't.
You guys wanting a Fish-N-Ski Boat? Got my baby for sale. |
Anybody else breaking cables?
I've now replaced mine twice in 5000 miles. They have both broken at the 3/4 inch dia pulley on the top of the pedal assy.
Regards, Alan |
So far I have had no problems. Keep my fingers crossed.
Is it possible the cable is too tight? When you fully depress the pedal maybe there is undue stress on the cable when it bottoms out. I know this happens with throttle cables if they are not adjusted properly. Just a thought. |
My clutch cable broke because I tried to get the peddle closer to the floor by having the cable too loose. It got cut because the cable went outside the roller. Once I replaced the cable and adjusted it properly, there have been no more problems.
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I have been through 5 cables and have no solution to the fix. Is there a
hydraulic clutch kit that will adapt to the 5.0 so I don't have to worry about driving back to my place when it snaps at the pully. |
Hi Rob, I adapted an Aluminum Mustang quadrant to the top of my pedal assy after my 3rd cable break in 10000 miles. So far, so good at 11,800, but I won't know if I've actually improved things until I get past 12,500 miles (avg cable life before the modification was 2500 miles).
Regards, Alan |
Tom:
I got the cable at Jegs let me check and see what the part # is & post reply in a little while. The coating over the clutch cable melted because it got too close to the headers and froze the cable up. Ahh yes never to repeat itself again. J.A. |
Tom
Part # 555-60147 for a 1979-1995 Mustang replacement. The 555-60148 is for 96-04 Mustangs but it looks just like the 79-95 cable. This is the cable only if you need other brackets etc please check. Fred's had the threaded bolt a the end of the cable tying into the pedal. Our's has a steel fitting on the end with the adjustment being done down on the bottom. Hope this helps. J.A. |
Anything would be an improvement. The driving season is from May through Oct. in Michigan. I drive about 1500 miles each year. I will try the quadrant modification, the stress at the pully is just to much. This is the first cable break this year, last year it snapped at the start of summer driving season. The year before 2004 it snapped twice, and 03 was my first incident. Thanks for your replies,hopefully this will be a lasting fix--- thanks again.
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I was looking at my footbox after reading about broken clutch cables. What if the small pulley at the top of the pedal was replaced with a larger diameter pulley? If needed, it could be relocated on the pedal to get the necessary clearance? The larger diameter would certainly reduce the stress on the cable as it goes around the pulley. Has anyone tried this?
Mike |
It's not like it moves on the pulley. There should be no stress other than normal tension on the cable. The cables that are breaking must be rubbing against something or slipping off to the side like has been suggested. It may be the route of the cable itself, (too much bend etc...) that causes it to wear and break. Maybe too stiff a clutch with too cheap a cable.
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aggie 76, do you have pictures of you modification,i have a quadrant left over and dont see how it would fit because of its large dia.
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No pictures, Sorry!
I was so anxious to get things back together, I did not take any pictures.
Basically, I removed the pulley, cut away enough material around the pivot point of the quadrant to clear the welds on the stock pedal, and then mounted the quadrant so its outer rim was in the same place as the OD of pulley had been. I used two 1/4-28 bolts to attach the quadrant to the pedal assembly. Alan |
so the quadrant is fixed (doesnt rotate like the pullie)and you did'nt have to modify the fiberglass cable holder. Is the cable the same length ?
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Yep. No change to cable length
The fiberglass dohickey at the top of the footbox is also unmodified. I have to do my clutch cable length adjustments under the car now instead of in the footbox.
The quadrant "rotates" (with the pedal) around the big long bolt which serves as the pivot for both the clutch and brake. The cable is hooked over the end of the quadrant, gets pulled straight back from the end of the cable sheath and is then wrapped around the quadrant (maybe a 8 inch effective diameter versus the 1 inch pulley as shipped by B&B) as the pedal is depressed. I'll see if I can come-up with a photo or a sketch. Again, I'm not sure this is a cure. All of my cable breaks were at the pulley, though, and I just decided to try increasing the bend radius to see if that would help cable life. |
i have a 3 position quadrant ,looks like 7 or 8 inch dia. it just doesnt seem like it would fit. also the alignment would change,one side or the other ,right? so a pic would be great. thanks Peter.
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well i did what you did and it feels a lot better ,smooth and no right angle bend , should last a lot longer.i did a bit of welding and cutting and left the quadrant mostly whole it pushes against the pivot bolt.very close fit , the cable cant jump the quadrant. I used only one bolt through the old pullie hole. It can all be put back the way it was if needed. Thanks for the idea,Alan.
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Any photos of your new setup?
Mike |
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