Rear Main Oil Leak

[IMLost]

Well guys you have confirmed what unfortunately I thought I knew. It's a 2 piece seal tjat is prone to leak. From what i have found out more than likely it's time for tools. All I can hope for is the crank was knurled and for the life of me I don't remember. I'll know Thursday when it 's take it apart time. Thanke to everyone for the feedback.

[DAVID GAGNARD]

Originally Posted by IMLost

Well guys you have confirmed what unfortunately I thought I knew. It's a 2 piece seal tjat is prone to leak. From what i have found out more than likely it's time for tools. All I can hope for is the crank was knurled and for the life of me I don't remember. I'll know Thursday when it 's take it apart time. Thanke to everyone for the feedback.

Actually I've had better luck with the old type 2-piece seals than the newer one piece as far as leaks go!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Clean out the area extremely well where the seal will go into, add a very,very light coat of RTV to the outside of the seal and install in it's place, before putting the rear main cap on, add a small dab of RTV to each end of the seal, and torque down, also put some motor oil on your finger and oil the inner side of the seal where it will contact the crank, not much, you don't want to install it dry.......

Can't remember the last time I had one leak, I built the 351-W in my 65 Mustang in the mid 90's, it's been used and abused, a LOT and so far has not leaked one drop of oil and I've seen oil temp numbers at 250 degrees on some road courses!!!!!!!!

David

[Sledge]

I have BDR #168. I was able to remove just the trans from the car (twice!) only by cutting the cross-brace for the seat belts(?) a little wider than the trans tunnel (I have a built-up T-5). Then I was able to get the driveshaft up and out of the way, and BARELY had room to jockey the trans aft and down, but I got it out.

I fabbed some angle iron to replace the cut brace, bolted it in, and it seems to be working just fine.

Cheers