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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 11-30-2013, 05:59 PM
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Default Brake pedal not returning

Ok, many many posts ago I thought maybe my brakes were grabbing on my BDR. Turns out they are. When I come to a stop and release the brake the pedal actually only returns about 95%. The remainder is just enough to grab a bit. I am able to pull the brake pedal forward with my foot but not sure how to correct this.

Plenty of fluid in the master cylinder-- any suggestions?

Thanks 1,000,000!
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Old 11-30-2013, 07:09 PM
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You should have a spring on the pedal.....
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Old 12-01-2013, 11:49 AM
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Most new backdrafts are built with certain used parts with unknown time and mileage that are just cleaned up and sometimes painted and then installed. I had a brake problem at very low miles from this unfortunate fact...an internal caliper o-ring and a brake failure on the right front of my car. When I took it off and repaired it it was obviously very "used". This being said, there could be a build up of decomposing rubber and gunk that will keep the piston from fully returning. If you have also rubber lines, sometimes they will decompose internally, allowing fluid to move one way and putting a resistance on the return flow and hanging the brakes a bit. Those are the only two things that I have seen hang a brake pedal.

Other than that, spray some wd 40 on all of your pedal joints!
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Old 12-01-2013, 12:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cbreez View Post
Most new backdrafts are built with certain used parts with unknown time and mileage that are just cleaned up and sometimes painted and then installed. I had a brake problem at very low miles from this unfortunate fact...an internal caliper o-ring and a brake failure on the right front of my car. When I took it off and repaired it it was obviously very "used". This being said, there could be a build up of decomposing rubber and gunk that will keep the piston from fully returning. If you have also rubber lines, sometimes they will decompose internally, allowing fluid to move one way and putting a resistance on the return flow and hanging the brakes a bit. Those are the only two things that I have seen hang a brake pedal.

Other than that, spray some wd 40 on all of your pedal joints!
You should probably be a bit more careful throwing around accusations like you have been unless you have some solid proof.

Saying a part was used...after it was actually used...would not qualify as "proof". Otherwise, good suggestions on what to look for.

Last edited by itstock; 12-01-2013 at 12:57 PM..
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Old 12-01-2013, 12:58 PM
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Cbreez is speaking of the days when he bought his car, the era of the $26,000 rolling chassis or thereabouts. The glory days when he was relevant... or whatever. His experience with cars over the 1,000 build number or even the 500 build number is imaginary.

Now to answer the question with actual applicable information...

The pedal shaft is shared and you simply need to check if it has tightened up to a point where it is binding. That and a little grease would help. I don't know off hand if you have the Wilwood brakes or not, but that should not impact this. You can also check your pushrod from your pedal to master cylinder and verify it is not binding at all.
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Old 12-01-2013, 02:06 PM
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You should probably be a bit more careful throwing around accusations like you have been unless you have some solid proof.

Saying a part was used...after it was actually used...would not qualify as "proof". Otherwise, good suggestions on what to look for.
I am expert enough to know internals on brakes...and junk parts when I see them.
If you think the rear ends and suspension arms on these cars are new I have a bridge to offer you...
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Old 12-01-2013, 02:24 PM
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You were talking about brakes. You live up to your reputation every day.
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Old 12-01-2013, 02:28 PM
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Knock knock.
Who's there?
Cbreez.
Cbreez who?
Yes!
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Old 12-01-2013, 02:32 PM
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Jaybird, as usual when somebody asks the forum for an opinion or advice, you think that yours is the only one that counts. Your motivation here is to peddle your wares and we all know it.

I was talking about brakes too...the bmw calipers...many are used parts installed on these cars.

Regardless, my suggestions are valid to check regarding the problem mentioned in order to try to solve it. I just offered some personal support of my findings directly related to backdrafts.
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Old 12-01-2013, 02:33 PM
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I am sure he has his reasons... I refuse to buy a Hyundai after I watched a friend's catch fire about 20 years ago (parked, turned off).

People say they are great cars today. Perhaps we can all learn that things may not be the way they once were.

Even so-- I would never go on a Hyundai forum and bash the product.
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Old 12-01-2013, 02:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cashburn View Post
Knock knock.
Who's there?
Cbreez.
Cbreez who?
Yes!
Folks, this is a dealer for backdraft????

Is this from your grade school education?
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Old 12-01-2013, 02:40 PM
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Quote:
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I am sure he has his reasons... I refuse to buy a Hyundai after I watched a friend's catch fire about 20 years ago (parked, turned off).

People say they are great cars today. Perhaps we can all learn that things may not be the way they once were.

Even so-- I would never go on a Hyundai forum and bash the product.
Todd listen to whom you want but if you read my posts I stated an observed fact regarding backdrafts applicable then and now, not a bash. It's tough to hear the truth about these cars after you've spent so much money on them...I went through that too.
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Old 12-01-2013, 03:10 PM
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Maybe time to sell yours? Then you can move on to the Hyundai forums?
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Old 12-01-2013, 05:02 PM
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Quote:
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Maybe time to sell yours? Then you can move on to the Hyundai forums?
he doesn't because he knows that even with some of what he is saying still being true it's a fantastic unique package.
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Old 12-01-2013, 05:30 PM
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Hi tpatodd,

I have also had a problem with the brakes not fully releasing.
As Cashburn described check for pedal box binding, but more importantly, do it after a run in heavy traffic and you have everything heat soaked.
The pedal box I had suffered from slight binding as things got warm causing both the clutch and the brake pedal to bind slightly. The movement when cold was unaffected. A return spring on the pedal is also a good idea.
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Old 12-02-2013, 05:37 AM
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Thanks everyone. Is there a way to get into this pedal box? Under the hood?

Looked under the dash and as you said Andrew, when it is cold it does fully return.
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Old 12-02-2013, 06:23 AM
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Don't you just love these threads where you can get at least 10 minutes of personality out of the comments?

Rebuild the calipers and put in a return spring. Yup did those and found it was the rod between the pedal and MC.

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Old 12-02-2013, 11:33 AM
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Holy Moly...........??......These are a hobby........The truth is always the better way.......
It's easy to go forward when one starts at the truth..........

Last edited by CHANMADD; 12-02-2013 at 11:35 AM..
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Old 12-02-2013, 12:25 PM
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Thanks everyone. Is there a way to get into this pedal box? Under the hood?

Looked under the dash and as you said Andrew, when it is cold it does fully return.
if you look under the dash that's the inside of the pedal box
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Old 12-02-2013, 12:34 PM
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lol at myself.
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