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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 01-04-2016, 09:24 AM
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Default Car stalled need advice.

Leaving my mom's house on Saturday the car died on me as I was getting to the end of the block. I gave it gas, it sputtered and died. Tried cranking and it would not turn on but smelled alot like gas. Almost as if it were flooding. I waited for 5 minutes, pushed the gas pedal to the floor and it fired right up. I was able to drive home and took it out for a test drive later on without incident. I have put about 1k miles on the car since i got it and this is the first sign of trouble. Engine is Roush 427r with Holley Carb. New components I installed as soon as i got the car are new ignition switch and new MSD coil. What should i check next?
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Old 01-04-2016, 10:31 AM
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I probably can't help much but I have a similar setup. I often find that a short stop somewhere makes the car a little harder to restart and also smell a lot of gas.

My particular setup seems to run really rich (came back this way from a checkup down at BDR).

Without knowing better I just thought this is how they dial them in.
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Old 01-04-2016, 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by eunosracr View Post
What should i check next?
I wouldn't check anything other than casually looking for obvious signs of problems, like "syrup trails" from fuel problems around your carb, or lightly jiggling wires going to your coil, distributor, ignition switch, MSD box, etc. while the car is idling -- but don't do anything major. If something is going bad, it will tell you. So, be prepared for when it does. Assuming your car didn't have a bad case of one-time flooding, when the car stalls on you the next time, have what you need to diagnose it in a small satchel behind the seat. And you should actually "practice" this in your garage. Have a little 12v light going to your ignition box so you can see that it's getting 12v. Get used to putting a remote starter switch on the starter solenoid, turn the ignition key on, pull the air cleaner off, put your nose over the carb and sniff, then crank the engine with the remote starter. (Don't crank and sniff at the same time, or a bad backfire will make a bad day even worse.) Pull back the carb linkage and observe your squirter shooting gas. Crank it again. Assuming you're not getting it to at least fire, put your inductive timing light on a plug wire, crank the engine again with the remote starter and pull the trigger on the gun. See if you get a nice constant flashing while cranking. If you don't have a timing light, pull one of the plug wires off and hold it with something at about a quarter inch from the head while you're cranking. Doing all of this will tell you whether it's a fuel problem or a spark problem. Once you know that, then there are only a couple of things it could be, and most are not a big deal. But trying to diagnose a no-start condition when the car is starting and running fine is pretty much a waste of time, unless you can jiggle a wire and make the car stop.
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Old 01-04-2016, 11:00 AM
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I wouldn't check anything other than casually looking for obvious signs of problems, like "syrup trails" from fuel problems around your carb, or lightly jiggling wires going to your coil, distributor, ignition switch, MSD box, etc. while the car is idling -- but don't do anything major. If something is going bad, it will tell you. So, be prepared for when it does. Assuming your car didn't have a bad case of one-time flooding, when the car stalls on you the next time, have what you need to diagnose it in a small satchel behind the seat. And you should actually "practice" this in your garage. Have a little 12v light going to your ignition box so you can see that it's getting 12v. Get used to putting a remote starter switch on the starter solenoid, turn the ignition key on, pull the air cleaner off, put your nose over the carb and sniff, then crank the engine with the remote starter. (Don't crank and sniff at the same time, or a bad backfire will make a bad day even worse.) Pull back the carb linkage and observe your squirter shooting gas. Crank it again. Assuming you're not getting it to at least fire, put your inductive timing light on a plug wire, crank the engine again with the remote starter and pull the trigger on the gun. See if you get a nice constant flashing while cranking. If you don't have a timing light, pull one of the plug wires off and hold it with something at about a quarter inch from the head while you're cranking. Doing all of this will tell you whether it's a fuel problem or a spark problem. Once you know that, then there are only a couple of things it could be, and most are not a big deal. But trying to diagnose a no-start condition when the car is starting and running fine is pretty much a waste of time, unless you can jiggle a wire and make the car stop.
Pretty much what i was thinking. It almost felt like a one-off instance of bad momentary flooding. Good advice on here. Point taken on the "don"t sniff and start at the same time" ! Thanks again !
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Old 01-04-2016, 01:02 PM
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Not that this pertains 100% to this post but I found my Roush 427R would boil the fuel in the carb after stops when the engine was hot making it really hard to restart after sitting for 30 min to 1 an hour after a long drive. I installed a 1/4" phenolic spacer ( most I could install so air cleaner would clear hood) between the carb and intake which actually cured the issue.

Just an FYI for Roush 427R owners...
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Old 01-04-2016, 01:15 PM
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Not that this pertains 100% to this post but I found my Roush 427R would boil the fuel in the carb after stops when the engine was hot making it really hard to restart after sitting for 30 min to 1 an hour after a long drive. I installed a 1/4" phenolic spacer ( most I could install so air cleaner would clear hood) between the carb and intake which actually cured the issue.

Just an FYI for Roush 427R owners...
I did the same thing and it helped a great deal. What was odd about this particular instance was that it started up just fine, drove about 200 feet and died when i gave it gas while driving up to the stop sign. Strong gas smell ensued and i gave it 5 minutes and it started right up.
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Old 01-04-2016, 01:40 PM
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Do you have a clear fuel filter so you can see your fuel. I wonder if ya got some trash in the line. Just another thought to think about. I've got about 1800 miles on mine and so far no issues other than the fuel boiling problem which I addressed.
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Old 01-04-2016, 01:41 PM
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I agree with Patrick, I had a similar problem that ended up being a very fine piece of rubber that got between the needle valve and seat on my holley (I assume from the rubber hose when it was installed). Did it a couple of times before a found it because it would work loose from the needle and then do it again!
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Old 01-04-2016, 01:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eunosracr View Post
I did the same thing and it helped a great deal. What was odd about this particular instance was that it started up just fine, drove about 200 feet and died when i gave it gas while driving up to the stop sign. Strong gas smell ensued and i gave it 5 minutes and it started right up.
Certainly sounds fuel related. Might be lack of fuel & you expelling your squirters causing it to smell.
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Old 01-04-2016, 02:59 PM
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Do you have an electric fuel pump with a switch on the dash? I was having similar intermittent problems until one day on the way home on the freeway the car stalled like yours. I had a fuel pressure gauge and could see I had no pressure. I checked the fuel pump but it was too noisy to hear, and went to the front and started jiggling the switch and I could see it come on and build pressure and figured out it was the switch had developed a flat spot. (And yes, it was a Lucas switch.)
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Old 01-04-2016, 03:19 PM
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I agree with Patrick as well (on this one).
I have a small "go bag" that I keep in the trunk with various tools, an electrical tester, an extra rotor cap and a battery powered single-wire timing light from Flaming River....

Flaming River Timing Lights FR1001 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing

Most important is carrying a fire extinguisher!
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Old 01-04-2016, 03:51 PM
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All good input. Fuel pump is mechanical so that removes the electric pump possibility. However now I am thinking about debris in the fuel filter and or fuel lines. Does anyone know where the fuel filters are on these cars? Are they easy to swap out? Might be cheap insurance if it is easy enough to do on a Saturday morning. Thanks again everyone for the feedback.
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Old 01-04-2016, 04:00 PM
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I can only speak to my car.
It has in-line filters at both supply and return lines mounted under the car below the driver's seat. Then an additional in-line filter under the hood just before entering the carb.

I have a mech pump on the engine that takes the daily work and electric pumps in the trunk that I use to prime things and then only work for reserve or if I lose the mech pump.

Hope that helps...
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Old 01-04-2016, 04:08 PM
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FWIW, I only have a plain old Carter mechanical pump. If it fails I'm basically SOL but what I would do is just have one of my kids sit on the front of the cowl and spray ether down the carb every three seconds while I limped her slowly home.
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Old 01-04-2016, 04:17 PM
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Such a caring dad!
Maybe just get a squeeze bottle and about 6 feet of tubing!
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Old 01-04-2016, 04:29 PM
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Quote:
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I can only speak to my car.
It has in-line filters at both supply and return lines mounted under the car below the driver's seat. Then an additional in-line filter under the hood just before entering the carb.

I have a mech pump on the engine that takes the daily work and electric pumps in the trunk that I use to prime things and then only work for reserve or if I lose the mech pump.

Hope that helps...
Going to check this out. Thanks
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Old 01-04-2016, 04:34 PM
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My filter, 2013 build, is located underneath the car right outside the tank on the fuel line going to the front of the car. I keep meaning to install one under the hood so I can see it easier but keep forgetting......this thread may remind me to do it!!!
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Old 01-04-2016, 05:25 PM
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The fuel filter can vary considerably from a small in-line unit to a large canister unit. I have a mechanical fuel pump and my fuel filter sits on the fender and is quite large. I have sen some sitting right before the carb. You might have to look around a little to see what you have.
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Old 01-04-2016, 05:32 PM
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Start at the tank and just follow the lines...
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Old 01-04-2016, 05:36 PM
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...and your Holley may very well have Moraine filters in the fuel inlets (mine does). If you didn't know to look for them, you might not even know about them. They look like little brass meshy things with a spring in them. You need to clean them every so often too. Here's a pic:

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