BDR OEM radiator/cap/pressure - Page 2

Mark IV · #21 (**permalink**) 10-21-2016, 03:54 AM

Peruse Summit...you will find the neck and/or the "O" ring. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/m...view/make/ford

spdbrake · #22 (**permalink**) 10-21-2016, 05:58 AM

Looks great.

On the swivel thermostat housing. I have the the CSR one (looks identical to yours) Spent 2-3 hours at least looking everywhere on all the sites. Jegs makes em as does Billet Specialties, CSR, Mr. Gasket, and a few others. Problem is when they do offer a replacement o-ring kit its always two o-rings and not a molded one piece. So then your stuck using an x-acto knife and silicone sealer.

Or buy another housing For $85-125.

I removed the o-ring and flipped it 180. Put a very thin bead of Permatex Right Stuff in the groove of the housing. Reinstalled the o-ring and wiped off the excess sealant. Waited 30 min and installed the housing to the intake.
Permatex 25223: The Right Stuff Gasket Maker 4oz. Automatic Tube | JEGS

Mark IV · #23 (**permalink**) 10-21-2016, 09:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spdbrake

Or buy another housing For $85-125.

| JEGS[/url]

More like $10-20 dollars

socalliving · #24 (**permalink**) 10-21-2016, 09:25 AM

Purchased the o-rings from summit after talking with Billet Specialties and they did not fit. The o-rings they sent would not fit around both the thermostat and return hose areas. If you look at how this is milled you can't use a small and large o-ring; it is one continuos o-ring, meaning there is not two separate grooves for them. I might purchase the ford racing neck for $58 on summit.

spdbrake · #25 (**permalink**) 10-21-2016, 09:36 AM

Mark IV,

You are correct in that you can find some at that price typically for Chevys and or non-swivel, and even then the cheap Mr. Gasket swivels are @ a 45deg, and not at a 90deg req for the BDR.

I've really only seen ones around this price range and above in this particular design.
JEGS Performance Products 53090: Small Block Ford Swivel Thermostat Housing 1-1/2" Hose Connection | JEGS

Please link the ones you've found as I'd like to purchase one. Looking for anodized Black.

socalliving · #26 (**permalink**) 10-21-2016, 03:12 PM

Spdbrake, where is the best location for the bung to be placed on the headers? I've read some discrepancies about proper placement. Also, is a return fuel line needed if using the FCC? If return line is needed does the upgraded aluminum fuel tank by BDR have that option?

spdbrake · #27 (**permalink**) 10-21-2016, 04:26 PM

I really wanted to put it south of the collector so it could measure a full bank.
The Wideband sensors have to installed a few deg above horiz to prevent moisture wicking that eventually smoke the sensor. The Wideband are not cheap. So rather than cut a hole in the side of the car I elected to use the #2 cyl approx 4" above the sidepipe mating flange (sits at a 45deg angle).
Scoring the pipe with a cutoff wheel will help the bit get it's initial bite without walking.
I had to use use 2 diff Unibits or end up punching the bottom side of the pipe. 7/8" hole.

The return line is required although I've run it with the port open nothing comes out. There is a check valve under the port (saw a youtube video of someone probing the port and wearing gas.) I'm guessing its for if the High press pump has a high press runaway issue...

I used Gates 1/4" line (Ethanol resistant)
[ame]https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002JMFLG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1[/ame]

Adel clamped it to the inside frame rail all the way back the fuel filler stand pipe. There is a fuel tank vent (1/2" line) that runs from the tank to the top inboard side of the filler pipe. I installed a Brass stepped (1/2 X 1/4 X 1/2)barbed t-fitting and attached the vent at the top as well. (Home Depot)

socalliving · #28 (**permalink**) 10-23-2016, 07:07 PM

Do you mind posting a few photos of bung placement and the fuel fitting on the filler stand pipe?

socalliving · #29 (**permalink**) 10-23-2016, 07:30 PM

Also, do I need a bypass regulator?

spdbrake · #30 (**permalink**) 10-23-2016, 07:45 PM

1st pic is the O2 sensor (looking at the r/h collector from the left side of car, leaned over engine to take the shot)
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...g?t=1477190136

Next is the fuel vent line. (From Left to Right. 1: Filler neck stand pipe, 2:Short piece of 1/2" hose, 3:T-fitting, 4: New FiTech vent line comes in from below, 5: Fuel tank vent line is attached to R/H ear of T-fitting.) Basically my new line jumped in the middle.
This shot is peeking by the R/tire looking aft.
Sorry for the quality had to use an Endoscope, or pull the back wheel off.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...g?t=1477190137

socalliving · #31 (**permalink**) 10-24-2016, 08:43 AM

So you opted to use the flange instead of welding the bung in place. I assume it responds to measuring only one pipe?

Thanks for the photos, makes it clearer.

Great job Spdbrake, your input is awesome.

spdbrake · #32 (**permalink**) 10-24-2016, 09:09 AM

Thanks for the feedback.
I plan on getting the bung welded on eventually when I remove the side pipes for new mufflers and Ceramic coating.
Forgot to mention.
The vent lines (tank and FiTech) are supported vertically by the standpipe using Adel aka cushion clamps.
Sorry don't have a pic of that, but this will give you and idea of the orientation.

socalliving · #33 (**permalink**) 10-24-2016, 11:36 AM

Spdbrake, Fitechs website lists a return kit (Moroso #65385) for the filler neck. Did you have to drop your tank when you installed the "t" on your filler neck?

How important is the location for the O2 sensor. Should it be placed after the collector? It could be placed 45 degrees off vertical towards the body of the car, right? Just curious.

spdbrake · #34 (**permalink**) 10-24-2016, 12:00 PM

The Moroso type filler T is already a part of the standpipe, you won't need it and dropping the tanks is not req'd just pulling the r/rear wheel.

The instructions point to either after the collector or on a primary.
I've run a couple of Stangs before with the O2 sensor in one primary (long tube headers) with no ill effects after 135k miles and 3 motors.

To be honest you won't be able to install it above the Horiz plane aft of the collector without punching a good sized hole in the side of the body. The O2 sensor id pretty tall and the the pigtail not so flexible. Would probably end up being just off plumb and being an eyesore. You might try giving Brian (works the Shop and Dyno) a call @ Vintagemotorsports and ask how they mount theirs.

socalliving · #35 (**permalink**) 10-25-2016, 09:43 AM

Spdbrake and others perusing this thread, everything has been ordered and shipped for my EFI conversion project. I can't wait to start.

I will update my progress as soon as I return from vacation.

Again, thanks for all the input.

P.S. Spdbrake I called FiTech and asked if I could be a guinea pig and they don't do that anymore but welcomed me to come up with or without the car and help me with anything regarding setup. One more question, the pressure gauge behind the FiTech unit? Incoming gas line pressure from FCC?

spdbrake · #36 (**permalink**) 10-25-2016, 10:33 AM

So the flow on mine is: 100 micron filter at the tank, Carter P4070 pump (puts out 4-6 psi) next to tank, 100 micron filter just downstream of the pump, Returnless fuel press regulator on firewall set @ 6psi (not really needed was a holdover from the Holley 750 and Holley Red pump I removed) feeds FCC, FCC out 30 micron filter to EFI unit.

A 30 micron filter comes with the FCC BTW.

https://utahbiodieselsupply.com/imag...omparisonB.jpg

Once you get the kit(s) prob good idea to start a new thread in the EFI forum. some of these posts as well maybe. This thread is morphing....

socalliving · #37 (**permalink**) 10-25-2016, 06:17 PM

Yes. I agree. One more question and will start new thread. Recommendation for inline filters so that I will have all parts when I start.

spdbrake · #38 (**permalink**) 10-25-2016, 08:09 PM

Screen type 100 micron w/ 3/8" barbs
Speedmaster and Procomp are the same company.

Speedmaster PCE132.1009: Billet Aluminum Inline Fuel Filter Inlet/Outlet Ports: 3/8 NPT Male | JEGS
[ame]https://www.amazon.com/Procomp-Electronics-PCE132-1009-Competition-Filters/dp/B01L0YQOG8/ref=sr_1_5?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1477451130&sr= 1-5&keywords=100+micron+filter&refinements=p_89%3APr ocomp+Electronics[/ame]

BDR0572 · #39 (**permalink**) 10-28-2016, 10:51 AM

If you go too advance auto web page and enter thermostat housing gaskets (don't enter car model)it will show all, get a couple of the numbers take your housing down and match up the oring , of course u mention hanger so i know you have some ms orings laying around .

spdbrake · #40 (**permalink**) 10-28-2016, 02:45 PM

Thanks for the assist BDR0572, I wish it was that simple. I literally have a full drawer in one of my tool chests full of gaskets / Orings I've collected the past few decades but that's not the issue.
The molded oring is. That's why I had posted earlier the I'd have to xacto knife an oring and use silicone on the splices if I were to "Will-fit" a new oring in the figure 8 groove. Mine is a bit diff than the pic socalliving had posted (see below for a repost of his) mine has a full large o-ring 360 bonded to a small u-shaped o-ring.

http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/atta...e-dscn2136.jpg

The Right Stuff gasket maker worked great with the old o-ring flipped 180. No leaks.

I'll eventually get a new Black housing as I 'm slowly blacking out most of the engine compartment and or removing bling.
Its a slow process as drive-train repairs take priority over the eye-wash items.