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Kirkham Motorsports

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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 11-15-2016, 07:40 AM
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Jaydee was talking about water flow and restricting it's flow, not air flow. We used a washer with a certain size hole instead of a thermostat in our race car to restrict the water flow.
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Old 11-15-2016, 09:15 AM
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Negative on lower flow rates (water or air).

It's a closed system. The longer coolant is in the radiator, the longer it's in the block gaining heat.

There is a reason companies like Stewart Components make electric booster pumps that install in the return hose. By increasing pressure behind the mechanical pump they can get higher flow rate without cavitation of the mechanical impeller.

Rate of heat transfer (Q) equals the mass flow rate (M) times a Constant (the specific heat of water) times the Delta T (fluid temp out minus fluid temp in):


Q = M x C x Delta T

The rate of heat transfer is directly proportional to flow rate. If you increase the flow rate, you will then increase the rate of heat transfer.
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Old 11-15-2016, 08:57 AM
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Running to cool is not good. Are your temps over 200 infrequent and brief?
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Old 11-15-2016, 12:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sledge View Post
On warm and hot days (85 deg F and above) I see water temps of 195 to 210 deg F, using a slightly larger (M3) than stock radiator and a belt driven Edelbrock water pump, even with my BMF Spal electric fan on. So, I was wondering if an electric pump, with a more constant flow, would be helpful. I'm using about 30% anti-freeze, 1 bottle of Water Wetter, and the rest is distilled water. 99.9% driven on the street in sunny SoCal. Lots of stop and go.

Brand, flow rate, etc recommendations appreciated.

Thanks
It ain't broke, don't fix it. 195 - 210 is perfectly fine...especially in those temps.
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Old 12-06-2016, 09:32 AM
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For my setup, a 487 BB, the Edelbrock pump cools it just fine, even on hot days. I have a big radiator and a Spahl fan also. There are benefits to an electric pump, but I don't like the added complexity and sudden failure mode.
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Old 12-06-2016, 02:35 PM
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Gary:

Have you had any reliability issues with the Meziere pump? Also, is yours set up just like a mechanical pump, that is, with a thermostat and electric cooling fan?

One of the previous responders talked about a system with an electric pump and a control unit that would vary pump speed and fan speed to maintain temperatures, with no thermostat. Sounded like it would work well, but also a bit more complex and expensive than I was looking for. Still kicking it around though.

Thanks to all responders!

I'm not, in my ignorance, ready to agree with the "if it ain't broke" crowd as temps over 200 or so, even if only temporary, make me kinda nervous with this older carb'd engine. I don't believe it was built to run that hot. Just MHO.

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Old 12-06-2016, 03:03 PM
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I'm not, in my ignorance, ready to agree with the "if it ain't broke" crowd as temps over 200 or so, even if only temporary, make me kinda nervous with this older carb'd engine. I don't believe it was built to run that hot. Just MHO.

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Do you have an oil temperature gauge? One of the factors in selecting a thermostat is getting one that will allow your oil to reach at least 212°F / 100°C in order to drive out any moisture in your oil. Your oil temperature can't get hot enough unless the coolant temperature is hot enough - the two are related. It depends upon the engine, but oil temperatures are usually hotter than coolant temperatures by 30-40°F - once things are all warmed up.

I have an oil temperature gauge and it takes a lot longer than you might think to get the oil temperature over 212°F / 100°C. Now, my 11 quart road racing pan with 3/4 length sump probably has something to do with that, but the message is clear: just because your coolant is up to temperature doesn't mean your oil is.
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Old 12-06-2016, 04:47 PM
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Brian:

Thanks for the info. I've had two different oil temp systems on my car and both of them have indicated that the oil rarely gets above 160 to 180 deg F unless I'm at the track. Meanwhile water temp will be as high as described previously. I've heard from other 351W owners that their oil temps run cooler than what they have experienced with other engines.

You're going to be evaporating water in the oil before you get to 212 deg F, right?

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Old 12-06-2016, 06:10 PM
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Might have missed it, but do you have a 180 degree thermostat or a 195 degree thermostat?
If not sure, install a 180 and see what happens.
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Old 12-07-2016, 12:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sledge View Post
I've had two different oil temp systems on my car and both of them have indicated that the oil rarely gets above 160 to 180 deg F unless I'm at the track. Meanwhile water temp will be as high as described previously. I've heard from other 351W owners that their oil temps run cooler than what they have experienced with other engines.
Are you running an oil cooler? I'm assuming you must be for your oil temperatures to remain cooler than your coolant.

Is the cooler thermostatically controlled, or cooling all the time? If the latter and it was my car, I'd be installing a thermostatic setup to allow the oil to get up to temperature. Here's a couple of examples, easily plumbed into oil cooler lines:
High-Flow Engine Oil Cooler Thermostat, 185F FSM-185
Earl's 501: Remote Oil Thermostat Billet Aluminum | JEGS

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sledge View Post
You're going to be evaporating water in the oil before you get to 212 deg F, right?
Correct, water will evaporate at room temperature, but it will obviously evaporate faster at higher temperatures. My preference would be for 180°F to be at the low end of the range - it would preferably reach 210°F or higher during normal use. I'm running full synthetic, so it can handle temperatures well over 250°F - and I've never been close to that.
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