Need a better designed oil pan

[cycleguy55]

Originally Posted by SBSerpent

So I have decided to go with the Aviaid pan. I loose some oil capacity yet gain a ton of 'piece of mind' and not have to worry about putting holes in my current pan from scraping.

Couple of questions:
1) What type of pan gasket do I use (aside from the steel reinforced rubber one piece)? This particular pan is notched along the rails. I have heard that you use a smooth gasket for notched rails and a ribbed gasket for smooth rails. Inputs? P/N's would also be appreciated.
2) Is there a gasket that goes between the pickup and the pump?
3) RTV ONLY at the corners where the gasket transitions from the rail to the crank?
4) Torque values for the pan bolts and oil pick up bolts?

If you don't already have them, give serious consideration to installing a set of oil pan reinforcement rails. They'll stop the deformation of the sheet metal on the pan rails that lead to leaks. They're available from a wide variety of sources:



In addition to the reinforcement rails, I also replaced the oil pan bolts with studs and 'flange nuts'. Others may disagree, but IMO the pan is easier to install that way, plus the flange nuts have one way 'teeth' where they meet the pan rails to help prevent loosening.

[SBSerpent]

Originally Posted by cycleguy55

If you don't already have them, give serious consideration to installing a set of oil pan reinforcement rails. They'll stop the deformation of the sheet metal on the pan rails that lead to leaks. They're available from a wide variety of sources:



In addition to the reinforcement rails, I also replaced the oil pan bolts with studs and 'flange nuts'. Others may disagree, but IMO the pan is easier to install that way, plus the flange nuts have one way 'teeth' where they meet the pan rails to help prevent loosening.

The original pan has the reinforcement rails, which I intend on using on the new oil pan. I also plan on using the FelPro gasket, which comes with installation studs, making the installation process much easier (and thus using the original bolts instead of studs).

[SBSerpent]

Originally Posted by cycleguy55

If you don't already have them, give serious consideration to installing a set of oil pan reinforcement rails. They'll stop the deformation of the sheet metal on the pan rails that lead to leaks. They're available from a wide variety of sources:



In addition to the reinforcement rails, I also replaced the oil pan bolts with studs and 'flange nuts'. Others may disagree, but IMO the pan is easier to install that way, plus the flange nuts have one way 'teeth' where they meet the pan rails to help prevent loosening.

Can these reinforcement rails be used on pans that have the recesses in the rail or are they designed solely for use on pans with smooth rails???

[Tom Wells]

Originally Posted by cycleguy55

In addition to the reinforcement rails, I also replaced the oil pan bolts with studs and 'flange nuts'. Others may disagree, but IMO the pan is easier to install that way, plus the flange nuts have one way 'teeth' where they meet the pan rails to help prevent loosening.

Cycle,

Couldn't agree more! Studs are way better than bolts for these seals.

Studs also prevent leaks from a more insidious source: bolts that are slightly too long.

If the bolts are too long, you can torque them to spec but they just bottom out in their holes so they don't give the clamping force that is needed to make the seal. You can't see it - the joint probably looks OK - or feel it, but it can allow leaks.

I also use (and recommend) studs for valve covers for the same reason.

Tom

[cycleguy55]

Originally Posted by Tom Wells

Cycle,

Couldn't agree more! Studs are way better than bolts for these seals.

Studs also prevent leaks from a more insidious source: bolts that are slightly too long.

If the bolts are too long, you can torque them to spec but they just bottom out in their holes so they don't give the clamping force that is needed to make the seal. You can't see it - the joint probably looks OK - or feel it, but it can allow leaks.

I also use (and recommend) studs for valve covers for the same reason.

Tom

I totally agree and a complete convert to studs. My valve covers are installed with studs and flange nuts as well.

[SBSerpent]

Finally got my Aviaid pan in and loving the additional ground clearance! Followed the recommendations - swapped out the bolts and used studs. Made the installation so much easier.

Here's a little idea that I came up with that helped with installation. I used the one piece FelPro gasket with the steel reinforcement insert along the length of the rail. I didn't use the installation pegs that came with the gasket. Instead, I put a very small dab of RTV in alternating holes and the at the four holes at the corners and I let that cure overnight - just enough to create additional resistance against the stud when the gasket is pushed up against the block. This held the gasket securely in place around the entire perimeter while I installed the pan.

[Grey 65]

I probably have the lowest street legal BDR and I have been running the AVIAID Daytona Coupe pan from them for a few years now.. P/N 155-55363

I have never had an issue.

[SBSerpent]

Originally Posted by Grey 65

I probably have the lowest street legal BDR and I have been running the AVIAID Daytona Coupe pan from them for a few years now.. P/N 155-55363

I have never had an issue.

How much oil do you put in when you do an oil change? Trying to figure that out because the Aviaid website says that the 55363 pan is the 55361 6qt GT-40 pan but without the notch in the sump to accommodate the larger starter on the GT-40. As such, the Daytona Coupe pan (55363) can hold an additional half quart, bringing the sump capacity to 6 1/2 quarts. Running the WIX 51515 filter (the larger sized filter) will add another half quart(?). So, this comes out to about '7ish' quarts at each oil change? Just trying to figure out the total capacity.

[Grey 65]

Originally Posted by SBSerpent

How much oil do you put in when you do an oil change? Trying to figure that out because the Aviaid website says that the 55363 pan is the 55361 6qt GT-40 pan but without the notch in the sump to accommodate the larger starter on the GT-40. As such, the Daytona Coupe pan (55363) can hold an additional half quart, bringing the sump capacity to 6 1/2 quarts. Running the WIX 51515 filter (the larger sized filter) will add another half quart(?). So, this comes out to about '7ish' quarts at each oil change? Just trying to figure out the total capacity.

To be honest I am not sure it is between 7.0 and 8.0. Before I installed the pan I had to cut the dipstick since it a universal length. So I mounted the dipstick to the pan cutting as required. Then I filled pan with water and marked dipstick for low and high. I then drained the pan, dried the pan and then installed on the motor.

[SBSerpent]

Haha. I went through all of the same steps exactly!

I'm counting on around 7ish quarts total in the system.

[cbreez]

Kevco 9qt pan...excellant.