Club Cobra Gas - N Exhaust  

Go Back   Club Cobra > Manufacturers, Engine Builders, tools, and parts. > BackDraft Racing ---

Welcome to Club Cobra!  The World's largest non biased Shelby Cobra related site!

  •  » Representation from nearly all Cobra/Daytona/GT40 manufacturers
  •  » Help from all over the world for your questions
  •  » Build logs for you and all members
  •  » Blogs
  •  » Image Gallery
  •  » Many thousands of members and nearly 1 million posts! 

YES! I want to register an account for free right now!  p.s.: For registered members this ad will NOT show

MMG Superformance
Nevada Classics
MMG Superformance
Main Menu
Module Jump:
Nevada Classics
Nevada Classics
Keith Craft Racing
Keith Craft Racing
Advertise at CC
Banner Ad Rates
MMG Superformance
MMG Superformance
December 2021
S M T W T F S
      1 2 3 4
5 6 7 8 9 10 11
12 13 14 15 16 17 18
19 20 21 22 23 24 25
26 27 28 29 30 31  

Kirkham Motorsports

Like Tree5Likes
  • 3 Post By patrickt
  • 1 Post By aa909
  • 1 Post By patrickt

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Rate Thread Display Modes
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 06-15-2021, 07:15 AM
aa909's Avatar
CC Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 160
Not Ranked     
Default Heat shield for Starter

Has anyone installed a heat shield on their starter?

My starter definitely struggles when it's heat soaked after a hot drive. Happens every time when I stop to get gas after the engine oil is running 180F+ for 30 min or longer.

I think a heat shield would help but not sure if one exists for our cars (I have a 2014 build) or if I have to custom build one. The other option is maybe to upgrade the starter to something more robust?
__________________
Thanks
Art
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Sponsored Links
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 06-15-2021, 08:10 AM
patrickt's Avatar
Half-Ass Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 20,986
Not Ranked     
Default

Before you install a heat shield, run a voltage drop test when she's hot on both the positive feed to the starter and the ground to the starter. Dicey cables/solenoids are more common than really bad heat soak. And the drop test only takes 30 seconds per side.
Reply With Quote
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 06-15-2021, 08:17 AM
aa909's Avatar
CC Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 160
Not Ranked     
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickt View Post
Before you install a heat shield, run a voltage drop test when she's hot on both the positive feed to the starter and the ground to the starter. Dicey cables/solenoids are more common than really bad heat soak. And the drop test only takes 30 seconds per side.
my little hydraulic lift only goes up enough for me to squeeze under the car with very little clearance. If I go under there to test the starter cables before the oil pan cools I'm coming out with some serious burns but if I wait for it to cool then the issue self resolves

Any other test I can perform when the car is cool?
__________________
Thanks
Art
Reply With Quote
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 06-15-2021, 08:21 AM
patrickt's Avatar
Half-Ass Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 20,986
Not Ranked     
Default

Sure. Perform the same voltage drop test on both sides of the starter (positive and ground) when the engine is cool and, if your results are poor when it's cool, then you will almost certainly fail it outright when it's hot.
Reply With Quote
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 06-15-2021, 09:18 AM
patrickt's Avatar
Half-Ass Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 20,986
Not Ranked     
Default

Here's a decent little write-up on voltage drop testing the starter motor. Note the total limits for drop and the component limits. Ford solenoids, or "starter relays" as they are sometimes called, are notorious for having high drops. Fortunately, they are the easiest component to change out as you don't have to jack the car up nor bend over the fender much.
https://www.aa1car.com/library/voltage_drop_testing.htm
Morris, rads42 and eschaider like this.
Reply With Quote
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 06-16-2021, 05:56 AM
1985 CCX's Avatar
CSX2375R Comp289
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Manchester, NH
Cobra Make, Engine: AK1085 and CSX2375R: Competition tribute in vintage Hertz Gold
Posts: 17,165
Not Ranked     
Default

I simply used the stick on type metalized fiberglass. Solved all my issues for $5 and 20 minutes....
Reply With Quote
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 06-16-2021, 07:18 AM
Austin_Snake's Avatar
CC Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Austin TX, tx
Cobra Make, Engine: Exact 427 Carbon Car
Posts: 162
Not Ranked     
Default

I've had luck with this type. It's quick and easy if you are just wanting to try a shield out.
You can get them lots of places.
https://www.designengineering.com/ve...tarter-shield/

Good luck,
Richard
Reply With Quote
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 06-16-2021, 11:42 AM
aa909's Avatar
CC Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 160
Not Ranked     
Default

Thanks all. I haven’t’’the had a chance to run the voltage check yet, but since I have to get under the car to do so I figured I’d also wrap the starter in the aluminum shield Richard recommended. I will report back when I try it out later this week.
__________________
Thanks
Art
Reply With Quote
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 06-27-2021, 01:10 PM
aa909's Avatar
CC Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 160
Not Ranked     
Default

Finally had a chance to work on the starter issue. I was planning to run Patrick's voltage drop test so I went to start the car Friday morning and I hear the starter spinning but the engine won't crank

I jacked up that car and check the starter and it was loose. The bolts on the face plate holding it to the bellhousing were tight but the body of the starter was literally a >1/4" loose. I removed it and the two 25 torx screws that hold the starter to the face plate had backed out, and one had completely snapped in half... WTF!!!

I also saw deep grind marks on the inner plate of the starter, and very light wear on the adjacent face of the flywheel (not the teeth). I hand cranked the engine and checked for any damage to the teeth on the fly wheel and thankfully they all look fine. The piņon gear on the starter also looked fine.

I bought a direct replacement (powermaster 9603) and installed it today. Instructions say "USE BLUE LOCTITE ON TORX 25 SCREWS"... well guess what, there was NO loctite on the screw I removed from the broken starter!! It doesn't come with loctite from the factory and I guess my mechanic didn't add it. took 5000 miles to back out and fail

Ran the car today with the new starter for 25 miles, got the engine hot (190-200F), shut it down for 5-10 min, let it bake under the hood and it started right back up. The new starter cranks much stronger (cold or hot) than the original. I'll monitor it over time, but if it begins to exhibit the same slow crank after it gets hot (like the original) then I assume it's clearly a heat soak issue and the solenoid is wearing over multiple heat cycles?
tennisbum132 likes this.
__________________
Thanks
Art
Reply With Quote
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 06-27-2021, 03:32 PM
patrickt's Avatar
Half-Ass Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 20,986
Not Ranked     
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by aa909 View Post
... but if it begins to exhibit the same slow crank after it gets hot (like the original) then I assume it's clearly a heat soak issue and the solenoid is wearing over multiple heat cycles?
Either that or the screws are backing out again. I don't think you have a heat soak issue. A motor is never tighter than the day you bought it.
aa909 likes this.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 10:27 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0
The representations expressed are the representations and opinions of the clubcobra.com forum members and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and viewpoints of the site owners, moderators, Shelby American, any other replica manufacturer, Ford Motor Company. This website has been planned and developed by clubcobra.com and its forum members and should not be construed as being endorsed by Ford Motor Company, or Shelby American or any other manufacturer unless expressly noted by that entity. "Cobra" and the Cobra logo are registered trademarks for Ford Motor Co., Inc. clubcobra.com forum members agree not to post any copyrighted material unless the copyrighted material is owned by you. Although we do not and cannot review the messages posted and are not responsible for the content of any of these messages, we reserve the right to delete any message for any reason whatsoever. You remain solely responsible for the content of your messages, and you agree to indemnify and hold us harmless with respect to any claim based upon transmission of your message(s). Thank you for visiting clubcobra.com. For full policy documentation refer to the following link: CC Policy
Links monetized by VigLink